Every now and then, I need to cut the damn fabric and sew the damn dress! It doesn't matter whether or not I have a specific place to wear it. Because that's always the number one question: "Where are you going to wear that??" My answer: Around my house... To the grocery store... Anywhere... and Everywhere I'd like. Sometimes, I just want to sew something because I CAN and it makes ME happy. No other reason required.

This project was already on my cutting table when True Bias and Closet Case Patterns decided to host the Sew Frosting Challenge. It's basically just sewing all of that "impractical" shit you've dreamed of sewing or cutting that fancy fabric just for the unbridled joy of it. So, what better confection to whip up than a full-length evening gown... a backless, shiny one at that!

My pattern is vintage Vogue 2230 - by Isaac Mizrahi that was released in 1998. 

It's from his Fall 1997 ready-to-wear collection.

My fabric is Black Jersey Knit with All-Over Circle Sequins from Mood Fabrics. I used the white version of this fabric for Vogue 8961, earlier this year. When I posted this dress on Instagram, I was asked how difficult is this fabric to sew? It's not. It's jersey with flat, round sequins. I used my sharp needle and my walking foot with the lightening bolt/stretch stitch. I only originally bought around 2 yards of this fabric, so I used a slinky stretch jersey for the sleeves.

I cut the size 14 and I added 5 inches to the length. I was surprised at how long the sleeves were. At first, I thought my fabric had some how stretch out. 

But I looked at the envelope and saw how the sleeves were slouching at the wrists of the model. The raglan sleeves have darts at the shoulder and the armholes are finished with 1/4" elastic.

The elastic is carried around the entire back opening as well.

The collar has 3 hook and eyes closure.

Even though I cut my normal size, I found that the dress was a little big at the waist. I'm thinking it was because of the weight of the fabric. So I had to go back and take in the center back seam. And I left the hem unfinished because I like the way the fabric drapes and it looks perfect from being cut with a rotary cutter. Before you even ask about a bra... I'm not wearing one.

Cheers to the ladies for organizing and encouraging the Sew Frosting Challenge. And just like there shouldn't be a special occasion for drinking champagne, there shouldn't be one either for sewing up something fabulous.

On Mondays, I'm generally very busy with so many errands to run and lots of ripping and running to do. I'd definitely be a lot more comfortable in a workout tank and Nike running shorts. But when I put forth a concerted effort to actually get dressed, it makes me feel better about myself. Like I haven't just given up. Even on hot and humid days, I like to feel pulled together. As moms, wives, and women in general -- we do so much for everyone that we love, we sometimes lose ourselves in the process. We have to always remember to exercise self-care. Part of my self-care is taking the time to actually fix myself up. Do I do this everyday? Nope... I just don't have the energy.  I workout a lot! And once I pull myself out of the house to head to the gym, I try to fit in everything else I have to do while I'm out and I'm already in workout clothes.  But do I make that concerted effort to actually get dressed several times a week? I sure do! It's what I do for me!

No matter the season, I try and make sure that I have a well-cultivated wardrobe of clothes that work for my lifestyle. These shorts are my 3rd iteration of Simplicity 1887.  I used a khaki green gabardine that I picked up from Hancock a few weeks ago. And I added D-rings like I did with the previous white version.  Very cute and very much machine washable!

I like non-tshirt type tops.  I wanted something with some flare.  Ruffles are really a thing right now. I've had Vintage Simplicity 6061 for a while now.  It's a dress pattern from 1983. I decided to take the bodice and make it into a top by lengthening it.

My pattern is cut in the size 14.  I added around 4 inches to the length.  I used this Italian Snapdragon & White Cotton Stretch Shirting from Mood Fabrics.  It is the perfect crisp weight to highlight these ruffles.  

The top is designed with bodice ruffles and armhole ruffles.  The bodice ruffles are sewn into the shoulder princess seams.  The ruffles are finished with scant machine sewn narrow hems, made on my BERNINA 350 PE with my narrow hem foot.  It was the perfect and most professional looking finish for the ruffle edge. The bodice has front, back and armhole facings, and a keyhole back opening with a button and thread loop closure.

If I sew this again, I'll probably add a few more inches to make sure that it stays tucked in because it's not quite long enough.  And I really love these shorts.  I still can't guarantee this is the last pair!

Let me tell y'all about my new glasses! Every year, I always get a new pair of glasses because I either break mine or get bored with the frames and need an upgrade.  I was contacted by Glassesshop.com to review a pair. How timely was that! I knew that I would be lightening my hair for summer, so I decided to do something different this time -- pick a lighter colored frame.

This was my first experience buying eyeglasses online. Mikaela has picked frames online and always buys her contacts online.  But I tend to buy mine from the optician.  It was a good experience.  I simply plugged in my prescription and pupillary distance and picked out the yellow Murray Round.  I received my glasses in about a week right in my mailbox.

Disclaimer: I received no compensation for this review, just my awesome new glasses.

I've been wearing these for about two weeks now and they fit perfectly. I can lean over and they don't slip and they're super comfortable on my nose and behind ears.  Those are the places that can make or break a pair of frames.  And most importantly, I can see everything I need to see when sewing and reading instructions!  They also offer prescription sunglasses, which I need as well.  These eyeglasses are really reasonably priced and I'd like to extend an even better deal to you all: use this coupon code GSHOT50 for 50% on eyeglasses and sunglasses with free lenses (sale frames excluded).  I hope you enjoy yours too!

I'm currently working on vintage Vogue Couturier Design 2925 from Fabiani from 1973, for the coat sew-along I'm hosting on my other blog The Amazing Sew-Alongs and also in my Facebook group by the same name.  After I had such amazing results with my first vintage coat -- Christian Dior Vogue Paris Original 1023 from 1974. I couldn't go back to a modern pattern for a major coat project.   Clearly coats from that era speak to my soul.  I also purchased Vogue Paris Original 1026, a vintage Balmain also from 1974.  I'm completely hooked on these! 

Outside of the style of these coats are classic and timeless, and drop dead gorgeous, I love the drafting and the instructions.  I love that the pattern comes with interfacing pattern pieces.  

I can't even tell y'all how many hours over the years I've spent drafting interfacing pieces for tailoring projects.  

Tailoring a coat or jacket is detailed and tedious by nature.  

If a couple of steps can be eliminated and the instructions are there without the additional time researching, I am all for this. 

My hair canvas is from Wawak.

I machine pad stitch because I've learned you don't have to do everything by hand in order to create a beautifully tailored garment.  I have adapted a method from Kenneth King's "Cool Couture", where he uses a Serpentine stitch.  It's #4 on Bernina machines and the stitch width is 5.0 mm and the length is 2.5 mm.  And the question that I'm asked the most about this stitch is:

"Does the stitching show on the other side?"  Yes, it does.  Am I bothered by it?  Nope.  If you are and/or going to make a coat or jacket where the underside of the collar and lapels will be showing, then you may want to do meticulous pad stitching by hand.  I've been there and done it on multiple occasions.  I'm not a fan.  But if it would be the best method for my garment, then I'd do it.  But if I don't have to, I'm not.  There's more than one way to skin a cat!

And I am definitely loving the drama of the collar and lapels!

And here's the back.  

Let's talk about coat length!

This is a dress coat.  And I will definitely be wearing it over dresses and skirts.  I like for my dresses and skirts to fall at or below the knee.  The dress underneath is Vogue 8872, my typical length and the hem of the coat is pinned up 3".  This is a detail that I take into consideration when making a coat.  Your coat SHOULD be the same length as your dress/skirt or longer.  When the hem of your coat falls shorter than your dress/skirt, it's simply NOT flattering.  Just wear a jacket.  This post is directed towards those of us that sew.  Shopping is different, because you have to find what's available, but this is the same direction you should head in also.  And to be honest, if you're sewing your own coat, there is no reason why you shouldn't just alter the pattern to the appropriate length -- if you wear skirts and dresses during the cold months.  The back length of this pattern was originally 40.75" and I adjusted it to 44".  

Just something to be mindful of when making a coat!

I've been really having an eye for vintage patterns lately.  I especially like the ones from the 1970s.  This one is dated 1980, so it still has that late 70s vibe.

This pattern is Simplicity 9704 - Jonathan Hitchcock for Reuben Thomas front wrap dress with pleated front closing skirt and curved hemline. Tie neckline.

I knew that I wanted to make this dress in a silk crepe, so when I started my search of fabrics I lucked up on this gorgeous Ralph Lauren Dark Blue (more like cobalt) Polka Dot Silk Crepe from MoodFabrics.com.  The hand of this fabric is incredible. 

For my vintage pattern, I used the size 14 -- there is only a single size in the envelope.  The size seems to fall more in line with a modern size 12.  And I was glad of that because I didn't have to make a single alteration to the pattern.   

Silk crepe is my favorite fabric and I live in silk pieces during the spring and summer.  And this fabric is exceptional.  The weight of it made it so easy to cut.  And I sewed it as usual with a Microtex needle. 

The bodice is self-lined and the skirt is not.  The skirt is sewn at the center back and I used a French seam.  The sides of the skirt are shaped with curved darts.  And I used small snaps for closures.  I also added one to the center front of the bodice to hold it together to prevent a major wardrobe malfunction.

Since the inside shows, I'm glad I made a French seam.  And the curved hem is done with a narrow hem and creates a beautiful drape.  This pattern was so easy to make, I feel I will make another one before summer is over.

Every year I make a coat.  It's something that I look forward to and I'm always excited when I plan my project.  For the longest time, I've had this gorgeous vintage Vogue Paris Original (#1023) - 1970s Christian Dior coat in my collection.  But I had never been able to find the perfect fabric.  I wanted something "fuzzy", just like the pattern envelope.

And I found fabric that was absolute perfection.  This heathered gray fuzzy mohair-blend from Mood Fabrics (from my monthly allowance for my MSN monthly project) just epitomized everything I was looking for.  And as a plus, it was gray.  I am completing all the neutral outerwear colors in my wardrobe and then I'll start of the fun colors!

This is my first foray into the truly vintage patterns arena.  I've done "older" patterns, but nothing as old as this one.  This pattern came in only one size.  And I bought it in a 14.  If I were purchasing it now, I would've bought a 12.  But I'm happy with the sizing because it leaves enough wearing room to wear this coat over a suit if needed.

The only alterations I made to the pattern pieces were adding length... my usual.  And I also wanted to make sure this was a full-length coat -- on me!  I wanted another coat that would be just as long or longer than skirts or dresses.  I hate when a coat is slightly shorter. I added 3 inches to the length of the coat.  And I added an inch to the sleeve length.

Even though I would normally tailor a coat anyway, I felt so lucky that this pattern is so comprehensive.  It came with its own tailoring instructions and pattern pieces for all of the interfacing.  How awesome is that?!  And why don't modern coat patterns come with such details?  McCall Pattern Company?  Simplicity?  Anybody?  These instructions were so easy to interpret that if you're attempting your first coat, you could easily achieve amazing results with this one.  One thing about the convenience of having all of the pieces included is that it saved me hours on creating interfacing pattern pieces from scratch.  I felt like I was getting a coat making course just from the instructions.

For my coat, I blocked interfaced the entire yardage before cutting.  Even though this fabric is of a heavier weight, it's still very drapey.  And I needed for the body to be sturdier.  

Here is the interfacing:  The front interfacing and the back stay are made from muslin.  Even though the pattern did not suggest or provide a pattern piece, I created a shoulder reinforcement made from hair canvas.  This ensures a smooth line from shoulder to bustline.

Here is the lining and the facing.  And also the back linining with a center back pleat for ease.  The last piece is the collar, which is interfaced with a fusible that extends 5/8" beyond the foldline.

I drafted my own 1/4" shoulder pads for a custom fit. I created a pattern using the front and the back pattern pieces of the coat.  The shoulder pads are created by layering fleece, each is reduced by 3/4".  I used the sewing machine needle to created perforated lines so that I could just tear off and keep going.  The layers are stitched together on top of a layer of hair canvas the size of the largest piece. 

The sleeves are drafted perfectly.  They set without any easing.  I created sleeve heads with the same fleece as the shoulder pads.

This is practically a couture coat.  But the only shortcut I'll take each time I make a coat is to bag the lining.  For me, there is simply no point in all of that excess hand sewing when the lining can be sewn by machine.  The width of my coat hem is 3".  And in order to achieve a perfect "jump hem", I trimmed the bottom of the lining to the same length as the finished coat hem.  Turn the coat back to the right side and slipstitch the hole.

Here is the finished inside.

Here is the finished outside and a closeup of the topstitching.  I added snaps to the inside.  I found that a size 100/16 needle worked best for this fabric and sewing through all of the layers.  And it also made topstitching a lot easier with my heavy weight thread.

I had the hardest time trying to find a belt for this coat.  I wanted something that tied, but not a self belt.  I found black woven belting in the trim section at Joanns.  Close enough, right?  Well... no.  LOL.  I decided if you want something to be a certain color, then make it happen.  So I grabbed a can of spray paint and made me a gray belt.  I've never done this before, so I don't know how this will wear.  But until I find a replacement, I still have a full can of paint for touchups.

My lining fabric is crepe back satin from my stash that looks and feels really luxurious.

I thought I was head over heels in love with my camel hair coat from last year.  But I believe I have a new love... until next time!