Sheath Dresses for Spring/Summer!

Valentino Couture - 2008

All from Saks. From l to r: Michael Kors, MaxMara, Chetta B.

New Look 6799, View C

Here is my muslin. I'm using a floral pique. I had to do a 1" FBA, raise the horizontal darts and grade the skirt up to the next size at the widest point of my hip.

Simplicity 2923 - The Shirtdress

Shirtdresses are a closet staple. They're an instant outfit and all about easy dressing, so easy does it with accessories. You want to look as if getting dressed was effortless, which means go light on jewelry and stick to breezy shoes like a wedge or an espadrille. Enhance the figure-flattering nature of shirtdresses with a belt to emphasize your waist. And if you feel too prim and proper, you can always forget to fasten the buttons all the way up! ;)

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2923
Fabric: Cotton Twill (100% cotton)
Notions: Five - 7/8" Buttons

This is one of Simplicity's "Inspired by Project Runway" patterns -- meaning that you can be the designer and select from the endless variations offered in the pattern to create your own individual style. I chose the banded collar bodice, the flat sleeve with the slit, and the straight skirt.

This was my first time working with one of these patterns. It kinda threw me for a loop when I read the back of the envelope. The fabric amounts are divided by sections. I found when I added all of the amounts and cut everything out, I had almost a yard of fabric leftover. You may want to make a note of this. I have another one of these patterns I plan to make and I will cut the pieces out first and decide how much fabric I will need. Other than that, the directions were fine.

I made a 1" FBA on the princess seams. I decided to try out bound buttonholes for the simple fact that I had never use them on a dress before. I also love the rounded back yoke. It's doubtful that I will make this one again since there are so many more patterns I want to use, but this is a good addition to my Spring wardrobe that I'll be wearing this week.

Spring Trend: The Shirtdress

Piazza Sempione Stripe Shirtdress - $750, Nordstrom

The shirtdress is making a cutting-edge comeback this season. Throwing on a shirtdress is one of the quickest ways to look polished and pulled together.

My next project is Vogue 8028.Image - Vogue Patterns Magazine - April/May 2008

This pattern is one that I've never given a second glance, until I saw it beautifully made up by Claire Shaeffer in the latest issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine.

I will be doing mine in a grey and white pinstripe seersucker.

McCall's 5512

Photos taken at the beautiful Wynfrey Hotel

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 5512, view A
Fabric:
Shell: 100% Wool Crepe
Lining: China Silk (100% polyester)
Notions: Two 5/8" buttons

Description: Lined, loose fitting, A-line dress, with cut-in shoulders, 5" above mid-knee, has gathered neckline, back opening and bias turned down collar with button and fabric loops.

This dress was very easy... it only took a few hours in an afternoon to complete it. This dress only had 6 fabric pieces (front, back, under and upper collar and the front and back lining pieces). I cut a size 4 above waist and blended to a size 6 from the waist to the hem.

The instructions didn't recommend interfacing for the collar, but I did it anyway. Since the collar was cut on the bias, I felt the the interfacing should be cut the same way. The fusible that I had was only 22" wide. Not wide enough to lay it on the bias. I use cotton muslin as sew-in interfacing and it was the perfect weight for the collar.

What really made this dress easy was the fact that it had no zipper. Only 2 buttons and the fabric loops at the collar. Notice that the top button is sewn on top of the collar. I used hem tape for both the shell and the lining.

I had planned on making the leggings also, but I couldn't find the type of knit I wanted. The only thing I could find locally were the shiny power knits. I didn't care for those. They scream -- on my way to dance class. I decided to just purchase a pair that looked almost like a sweater knit. We decided to accessorize with black suede platform pumps and a silk wrap since it was a rather warm night.

Dress -- finished!

I finished the dress (M5512) this afternoon, so here's a preview. I'll post a full review and a picture of Amber wearing it on Wednesday.

Back on the backburner!

Once again, my Burberry-esque trench sits unattended and unfinished on the dressform. *sigh* You ask why? Well, I'll tell you. Amber so kindly reminded me that her Winter Dance is Wednesday and I had yet to even purchase fabric! This sent me into an immediate state of panic. What if I can't find fabric locally? My first thought was to say forget sewing and do the thing I dread the most -- going to the mall. I hate malls with a passion and avoid them at all cost, I adore boutiques though, but I digress... So, the thought of me buying a dress from, God forbid, the "mall" had Amber at the point of tears. She is serious when it comes to not wanting to be the carbon-copy of anyone else.

I took a chance today and went to Hancock. Luckily, I was able to find a lipstick-red wool crepe and it was 30% off and the notions were 10%!

Pattern - McCall's 5512

I'll post pics for this late Wednesday evening.

BWOF 09-2007-117

Project Details

Pattern: BWOF 09-2007-117
Fabric: Fuchsia Satin Jersey
Notions: 22" zipper

Description: "A new version of the sheath dress, this time not cut classically straight but in tulip shape. Add some cap raglan sleeves and bright plaid fabric for a very trendy garment indeed!"

This is my very first Burda World of Fashion pattern! Now, I'm kicking myself because I've wasted so much time and let so many great patterns get away. The tracing wasn't as bad as I thought it would be... just an additional step and then on to cutting and sewing. The pieces are very will drafted and I am an official Burda convert!

I cut a size 40 for the bodice and blended to size 44 at the hip. I was initially concerned whether or not a FBA would be needed. I didn't have anything to go by because neither of the other sewers who reviewed this pattern on PR had a full bust issue, so I was on my own with this. Once I sewed my muslin, I saw that the fit of the bodice was fine, but there were a couple of other adjustments I needed to make. I had a few horizontal lines, front and back on the skirt part at the pleats. I reduced the length of the pleats by 1" which allowed me a little more ease. Also, I didn't care for the length of the zipper. It stopped right in the crack of my butt and "bubbled out" right there. I moved the stopping point of the zipper up 2" to a more comfortable spot.

Since I used a jersey knit instead of a woven, I decided to omit the lining since this type of jersey is pretty heavy and can hold it's on (with proper foundation garments of course). I also used a coverstitch for the sleeve and the skirt hems and to also topstitch the raglan seams.

I had been doing a lot of snoop shopping lately, I noticed that a lot of high-end RTW dresses (i.e. Dolce & Gabbana, Vera Wang) had "exposed zipper fastenings". I decided this would be an interesting design feature to add to this shift dress.

As you see, I omitted the collar. When I made my muslin, I didn't like the way it looked on me. I kept having the urge to pull on it. I really like the boatneck style and it really shows up the pleated bodice's detail. Another plus was that when I was making my muslin, the neckline of the dress looked really familiar to me. I scrolled through my "inspiration file" (everytime I see something that peaks my fancy, I save it) and I found it! This dress reminded me of the RM designed by Roland Mouret - Moon Dress, that retails for a mere $2,150.

I'm very happy with the way the outcome and I can't wait for an occasion to wear this.

Project: Homecoming

The start of school means that Homecoming is readily approaching. I have until September 25th, to find and construct Amber a dress. She's a 15 year old sophomore. I want her to look beautiful, but not too "grown" (know what I mean). No plunging necklines! No low cut backs! No minis! No slits up to "there"! After seeing how some of those young girls go to homecoming and prom, I have to wonder what kind of crack their parents smoke?! They look more like they're going to a party at Hef's mansion than to a school-related event. I've been searching and I have ALMOST narrowed down my choices.

M5320

M5001

V8149

But this one is my favorite:

V2732

My daughter is only 5'3"... I would have to alter the pattern and cut this dress to a tea-length so the dress will not be "wearing her". I love the bodice on this one, plus it's a halter for that extra support. You'll be hearing more about this project in the weeks to follow.

Simplicity 3799 - Psychedelic Shift!

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3799 (modified)
Fabric: rayon/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Things
Lining: polyester interlock

This dress is my "anti-black & white" project! I was in dire need of some color in my life and I had this fabric in my stash just waiting for the perfect project. I love this fabric... it's very retro and Pucci-esque and it deserved a retro-style project. I had seen versions of this dress made by Narcissaqtipie and Stacy and decided I wanted one too. What really sent me over the edge were these dresses:

Sandy Lomax (wire image)

Diane von Furstenberg (Nordstrom) and I.N.C. (Macy's)

Modifications:

I cut this dress out in a size medium and gradually came out to a large through the hip. I shortened it by 4 1/2" so that I could add the hem band. I drafted the hem band and made it around 4 1/2" wide and added it to the bottom of the dress. I also lined the dress with a white polyester interlock because the fabric is very clingy. Plus, since this dress has a "racer-back" style, I didn't want to bother with trying to find an appropriate slip.

Simplicity 3874 - The Little Black (& White) Dress

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3874, View A
Fabric: Taffeta (50% polyester/50% nylon)
Lining: Cotton Batiste
Notions: 22" invisible zipper; eye & hook and 3/4 yd. of 1 1/2" wide elastic

Since I made a day dress, I wanted one for cocktail hour too. This pattern is fairly easy, but I still had to make my usually alterations.

• I cut the bodice in a size 16, the skirt in a 18 and I made a 1" FBA.
  
• I also lowered the v-neck 1 1/2 - 2 inches... it looked a bit frumpy on me. Since I made this dress for "cocktail hour", a little cleavage was not going to hurt.
  
• The pattern suggested only lining the bodice, but I chose to do a full lining.
• I secured the lining to the dress at the hem with a chain stitch.
• The armholes and the neckline are edgestitched.
  
• The ties are encased and have elastic attached to them which makes for easy adjusting.

This is a very easy pattern and I recommend it.

It is truly the season of the dress...

and if you are a fashionista that truly loves them, you'll love these sculptures. These are the creations of metal sculptress and jewelry artist Julia S. Peerson. These beautiful works will be on display at ArtWalk at the Pepper Place Farmer's Market THIS WEEKEND from 7 am until noon... hmmmm, may have to check this out!

ABOUT JULIA S. PEERSON

Metalwear is based on abstracted self-portraiture. All of the dresses were made on the same steel form to fit the artist's shape. Every cut, burn and hammer-blow is documented by charred edges, chipped paint, and dented surface texture. The physical struggle that took place in the making of each work is evident. These works grew out of the desire to explain the personal need for a balance between strength and elegance.

Julia had the idea to create jewelry from Metalwear because she could not bear to throw out any of her burned and beaten scraps. The steel is often painted in layers. When scratched or burned, surface color makes way for what exists beneath. Julia feels that every tiny piece of steel deserves scrutiny and that every tiny piece of scrutinized steel needs to be worn.

Sunday Sewing Randomness

While flipping through my favorite magazine - Lucky, found this great article: "How to shop for tailored dresses". Lo and behold there's the dress that's high on my "MUST SEW" Fall list! The Nine West dress is a deadringer for McCall's 5466. It's just a matter of cutting the pieces on the bias. Love it!

This Fall, I'll be starting "Project: Chanel Jacket". This is the wool/cotton/silk blend bouclé that I selected for my jacket. I'll be using Vogue 7975 as my pattern.

Wardrobe Contest/S.W.A.P.

While shopping with Adrienne in Hancock's a couple of weeks ago,

she pointed out this great fabric. It stayed on my mind all day and I ended up going back the next day and buying it.

to make this dress.Simplicity 3874, View B

I also picked up some denim
for a pair of bootcut jeans.

McCall's 5142

McCall Patterns - Fall 2007

M5466 - Does this look familiar? All of you fashionistas should definitely remember this "IT" dress from Fall 2006. This is McCall's version of the Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B. scoop neck plaid dress that was worn by many celebrities. I'm wondering now if Vogue Patterns will do a similar version with the pleats? It would definitely save me hours of modifying this one to get an exact look. Or I could just leave the skirt straight and just use a surplus-style pocket cut on the bias like the original dress. I'm thinking on this one...

M5478 is also a L.A.M.B. interpretation. I think it's cute and I'm such a jacket kinda girl since I live in such a warm climate. By adding some interlining, this one could easily take me into January.

M5464 - This cute jumper looks to be inspired from Luella Bartley's Fall 2006 collection. I think this would definitely look cute over a fitted turtleneck and tights.

M5467 - The strapless jumper. I've seen so many variations of this style. I don't know if this will be on my "MUST SEW" list, but IF I do make it, I will be wearing it with...

M5471 - I love this white shirt! I love that it has princess seams! I love the dramatic cuffs!

Simplicity 3744 - Black & White Shift Dress

The palette for Spring/Summer 2007 is black and white, or more important -- black and white prints.

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3744, View A

Fabric:

Fashion Fabric: cotton pique (100% cotton)

Lining: batiste (100% cotton)

Notions: 20" invisible zipper; eye and hook; two 1" buttons; lace hem tape

Description: This is really a simple shift dress with princess seaming and darted bodice to add shape and styled with a boat neck and two front pockets. It is semi-fitted at the bust and easy-fitting through the hip.

This is a Threads Collection pattern that has separate patterns for B,C, and D cups, which make fittings a lot simpler since no FBA was required. This dress is constructed with princess seams that I serged and pressed flat. The only thing unique about this construction (to me) was the pocket. The dress does have neck and armhole facings. To prevent rolling, I understitched them and handstitched them down to the shoulder seam allowances. I cut the pattern in a size 14, I did slightly nip in the waist to prevent the dress from being too "tent-like". At 1" below the waist, I gradually brought the skirt portion out to a size 16 for more of an a-line effect.

I added a lining to the dress because I would just feel naked without one. LOL

I handstitched the lining to the to the facings and the zipper tape.

I serged and machine stitched the lace to the hem of the dress and handstitched the hem.

The back tab which was a great detail to this dress was applied by sewing the buttons to the dress and buttonholes on the tab and fastening it on. To pull the dress off and on, you just undo onside.

All in all, this was a very simple pattern. I just lengthen the process by doing extra things which were a personal preference.

Spring Trends: The Crochet Dress

Temperley London Crochet Dress, Net-A-Porter.com - $1,106

Giuliana Testino Genovesa Crochet Dress, Net-A-Porter.com - $600

Diane von Furstenberg Livinia Crochet Dress, Net-A-Porter.com - $395

And mine!

Spring Trends: The Maxi Dress

Forever 21 - Knock IT Off!

I guess we should just refer to F21 as the "knock-off shop"! The dress on the left is the Foley for Foley + Corinna Smock Long Dress that retails for $440. The one of the right is Forever 21's Chiffon Floral Dress for $39.80.

Pebble Dress by Twinkle, Anthropologie - $288. Made from silk voile and trimmed in pink crepe de chine.

Desiree Dress by Tricia Fixx, Couture Candy - $275. Made in 100% polyester with crochet trim.

Plenty by Tracy Reese Maxi Slip Dress, Couture Candy - $319. Made in 100% silk.

Robbie Bee Split Front Silk Maxi Dress (Plus), Nordstrom - $88.00. Made in 100% silk chiffon.

Sweet Pea by Stacy Frati Mesh Tank Dress (Plus), Nordstrom - $118. Made in nylon.

These dresses are very reminiscent of the 1970's and to me, that's what Spring/Summer 2007 feels like. During the 1970's, women chose who they wanted to be and how they wanted to dress. They wore mini skirts one day and a maxi dress the next... just like this seasons mini shifts and maxi dresses. These romantic, dreamy, flowing full length-maxi dresses in empire waist or halter neck styles should graze the ankle instead of the floor for a "wearable" look that will not be hazardous and should be made in exotic prints and "Pucci-style" abstract patterns. They can be worn with a wedge heel, thong sandals or cute flip-flops.

Butterick 4977

McCall's 5383

Simplicity 3803

Spring Trends: Pockets & Squares

Marc by Marc Jacobs Gauze Smocked Dress, $188; Wayne Ruffle Collar Dress, $450; Trina Turk Zima Dress, $238, Lacey Parker Silk Charmeuse Bubble Sleeve Dress, $385, Simplicity 3835 and Vogue 8229.

Adam + Eve Square-neck Shirt, $225; Catherine Malandrino Square-neck Blouse, $325; Adam + Eve Square-neck Empire Top, $325; Butterick 4738 and Simplicity 4022.

Hot Patterns-HP103 Amber's "Cha-Cha-Cha" Dress

Project Details

Pattern: Hotpatterns - HP103
Fabric: Rayon Challis (100% rayon)
Notions: 1½ yds. of ¼" wide ribbon; 1½ yds. of ½" single-fold bias tape & 1 to 1½ yds. of ¼" wide elastic.

Description: Scoop-necked dress has long flared raglan sleeves and a slim skirt, sleeve trimmed with a narrow self fabric frill.

I never think about how tiny my daughter is (compared to me) until I get ready to sew something for her... she's a 5'3" pear - "Shape A". There were quite a few alterations I made to get a perfect fit. I cut the bodice front and back and sleeves in a size 6. Because she is petite, I had to cut 5" off of the sleeves. I knew right off the back that I would have to make sure that the skirt portion of the dress was cut in a soft a-line instead of the straight, slim-style it was originally. This meant that I needed to gradually go from a size 6 to a 12 (thank God for nested patterns). The dress features a bias-tape casing for the ribbon tie at the neckline and an elasticated under-bust seam that was done using an invisible casing. Attaching the sleeve frill was a matter of attaching the pieces at the ends, hemming 5/8" and gathering. All of the seam allowances are pressed open and overlocked. Once I attached the bodice to the skirt, we tried it on to make sure the fit was good and to check the length and she decided that she didn't like the skirt frill, said it was "too much" so we left that part off and just used a 5/8" hem.

I plan to make the halter version for myself but this time, I'm going to be "typical Erica" and go against the pattern company's suggested fabrics and use a matte jersey and cut the skirt on the bias. Can you imagine how incredible the drape would be?

RTW Inspirations

JS Boutique Embellished Matte Jersey Halter Dress - $158, Nordstrom

Butterick 4978

Anna Sui Leaves in Shadow Top - $148, Anthropologie

Vogue 2947

"L" ements of Style

I was watching the "L" Word tonight and it occurred to me that this is one of the best styled shows on t.v. Out of all of the characters, my favorite style is "Alice". Alice's style is very feminine and girlie and I love dresses. More inspiration found!

From top to bottom: Nanette Lepore - Mambo Dress - $270, Eluxury.com; Shoshanna - Embroidered Dress - $370, Neiman Marcus; Diane vonFurstenberg - Bellette Wrap Dress - $325, Nordstrom.