BWOF 09-2007-117

Project Details

Pattern: BWOF 09-2007-117
Fabric: Fuchsia Satin Jersey
Notions: 22" zipper

Description: "A new version of the sheath dress, this time not cut classically straight but in tulip shape. Add some cap raglan sleeves and bright plaid fabric for a very trendy garment indeed!"

This is my very first Burda World of Fashion pattern! Now, I'm kicking myself because I've wasted so much time and let so many great patterns get away. The tracing wasn't as bad as I thought it would be... just an additional step and then on to cutting and sewing. The pieces are very will drafted and I am an official Burda convert!

I cut a size 40 for the bodice and blended to size 44 at the hip. I was initially concerned whether or not a FBA would be needed. I didn't have anything to go by because neither of the other sewers who reviewed this pattern on PR had a full bust issue, so I was on my own with this. Once I sewed my muslin, I saw that the fit of the bodice was fine, but there were a couple of other adjustments I needed to make. I had a few horizontal lines, front and back on the skirt part at the pleats. I reduced the length of the pleats by 1" which allowed me a little more ease. Also, I didn't care for the length of the zipper. It stopped right in the crack of my butt and "bubbled out" right there. I moved the stopping point of the zipper up 2" to a more comfortable spot.

Since I used a jersey knit instead of a woven, I decided to omit the lining since this type of jersey is pretty heavy and can hold it's on (with proper foundation garments of course). I also used a coverstitch for the sleeve and the skirt hems and to also topstitch the raglan seams.

I had been doing a lot of snoop shopping lately, I noticed that a lot of high-end RTW dresses (i.e. Dolce & Gabbana, Vera Wang) had "exposed zipper fastenings". I decided this would be an interesting design feature to add to this shift dress.

As you see, I omitted the collar. When I made my muslin, I didn't like the way it looked on me. I kept having the urge to pull on it. I really like the boatneck style and it really shows up the pleated bodice's detail. Another plus was that when I was making my muslin, the neckline of the dress looked really familiar to me. I scrolled through my "inspiration file" (everytime I see something that peaks my fancy, I save it) and I found it! This dress reminded me of the RM designed by Roland Mouret - Moon Dress, that retails for a mere $2,150.

I'm very happy with the way the outcome and I can't wait for an occasion to wear this.

Simplicity 3631 - Adding Some Color!

Brightening up my monochromatic wardrobe!

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3631, View B
Fabric: Faux Suede
Notions: Three Dritz Half Ball Cover Buttons (1 1/2"); lining fabric for seam binding; 4" chain

Description: Jacket has oversized covered button fastenings, cropped cape-like raglan sleeves, and belt.

I cut jacket in a size 16, using a faux suede. This pattern is very easy, even a beginner could have smooth sewing on this. I didn't like the reversed pleats that the instructions suggested, so I made the pleats the "normal" way and topstitched them on the right side. I'm so accustomed to lining my jackets and since a lining was not required for this one, I used a Hong Kong finish for the seams. I found lining fabric in a similar color to the fashion fabric and cut 1" strips on the bias. I sewed these to my seam allowances by stitching 1/4" from the edge, trimmed to a scant 1/8", folded the bias strip over and ditch stitched on the right side. I also decided to go with bound buttonholes. I ran across a fantastic tutorial on the Sew-4-Fun blog... one of the easiest I've seen. I'll be using it for welt pockets also. And for a finishing touch, I added a hang chain to the back. I sewed this in right underneath the back facing. While snoop shopping, I noticed these were prevalent on high-end RTW jackets.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the outcome of this jacket. I feel that I took a simple pattern and transformed it into a designer looking garment.

"Comfortable does not have to mean ugly!"

Is that not the best quote? LOL Veronica Webb said that on Tim Gunn's show. And that's very applicable to the way I live. You can still be cute, stylish and comfortable without looking "ugly".

I guess y'all have figured out that I have an affinity for white shirts! What's simpler than a white shirt and a denim skirt? Nothing... too easy! And this is probably not the last one! LOL

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3684, view A & C
Fabric: Heirloom Cotton (100% cotton)
Notions: eleven 1/2" buttons

Description: Misses Threads Collection shirt with B, C, D cup sizes; with tuxedo bib front and bishop sleeves.

This pattern came right out of the envelope, ready to go. I cut the size 16 with the D cup. I used view C's front and back, so there was no need to lengthen. I used the collar and bib pieces from view A and Michael suggested I use the bishop style sleeves from view C. Unlike the last shirt I made, this one has real front bands. I referred to David Coffin's Shirtmaking book for construction tips. Since my fabric is very lightweight, I used french seams. I used Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Fuse white sheer interfacing.

I cut the bib pieces so that the stripes would fall horizontally. I also had to change the direction in which the collar stand and collar were to be laid out. Since this fabric is striped and the stripes are in the direction of the grainline, if I had cut the collar pieces on the fold as instructed by the directions, the stripes would have fallen vertically instead of around the collar. I added a bias tape binding to the collar stand because I like the clean edge look and I wanted to. LOL Even though I forgot to get a closeup, the cuffs have a 3 button closure. I finished this off with a narrow hem. Since sleeves are really making the shirts this season, this is another great wardrobe addition!

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 8426, View C
Fabric: Dana Buchman Silk Denim (100% silk denim)
Notions: Invisible zipper (cut to fit); hook & eye

Description: Below the knee skirt with shaped seams, back zipper, self-faced yoke and triple pleats with underlay.

This skirt is a unique variation of the pencil skirt with it's very flattering 1940's cut. Even though this is a "Vogue Easy" pattern, the pleats and underlays were very time consuming. The pattern is extremely well drafted and all of the uniquely shaped pieces went together perfectly. I chose view C because of the length. I'm a little "long in the tooth" to be running around in mini's for an everyday look. LOL I added seam binding to the facing and used Ann's method for a RTW - Style Zipper Facing. I serged all the edges and pressed them open. I added the belt loops from view B and I finished with a 2" handsewn hem.

Vogue 8425 - The High-Waisted Skirt

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 8425, View C
Fabric: polyester crepe
Notions: 12" zipper; four 5/8" buttons; hook & eye

Descriptions: High waisted, below mid-knee semi-fitted skirts have back zipper and front band has button closing.

This skirt is so easy and that's how Vogue Patterns has it rated. I literally sewed this skirt in a few hours. I love the princess seam construction and the back vent which helps a lot for walking... especially when you have a long stride as I do. This is #8 on my trends list. At first, I'm sure you remember, I was a little apprehensive about this trend... whether or not it was for me. Even though I have hips, I've never had a problem with straight-styled, pencil skirts as long as they were the "right size". I think this one turned out pretty well. I followed the instructions and the only thing I did differently was to add boning to the waistband. I did this by creating casings in the seam allowances and sliding the pieces in there. I feel that the boning allowed the waistband to keep it's shape and structure. So, if you want try this trend out, I would recommend this to those that have longer torsos. If it wasn't the fact that I am as tall as I am, and have plenty of torso, this skirt could have easily stopped level with my bra band.

Just Checkin' In

So, what y'all been doing this week? First, I needed to rest after the homecoming dress... that took a lot out of me. BTW, thanks for all of the wonderful compliments on the dress and the fabulous birthday greetings. This weekend, I had a lot of family time. Michael took four days off to spend with me. This is a big deal because he is the biggest work-a-holic and it was fun just having him around.

Last evening, Adrienne and I went to "Girls' Night Out" at Gus Mayer (my favorite luxury store in Birmingham).

It was a very nice spread catered by Brio and an open bar.

While in there, we did some snoop shopping until the manager asked me not to take pictures of the merchandise. LMAO Next time, I'll engage one of her sales associates and have them start me a fitting room and take pics I want in there. ROFL

So, when did Nascar start making shoes???

Capes are definitely popular and have a big presence in RTW. I'll be making my own version this winter (if it ever gets here *sigh*).

And houndstooth is everywhere! If y'all know of a large houndstooth print fabric, preferably a wool or wool blend (jacket/coat weight) -- LET ME KNOW!

Simplicity 3686 - Wide Leg Trousers

As you may have noticed, I working my way through the my 10 trends for Fall.




Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3686, View A & B
Fabric: Wool blend suiting
Lining: 100% Polyester
Notions: 7" zipper; one 3/8" button; four 5/8 buttons; 1/4" wide bias tape; hem tape

Description: Unlined wide leg trousers with wide contured waistband and button flap pockets. (cuffed hem optional)

I really like this style of pants and to me it's one of the easiest trends of this season. In my opinion, this style looks best when paired with a fitted top. I decided to wear this tailored shirt with them and the cuffs really balance out the legs.

These pants are constructed very basically with a fly front... if you've made pants before, these will not be a problem. I added in 3 1/2" of ease because I wanted a bit of a loose, slouchy look and they are very comfortable. These pants have a great rise which is right below the waist. I love the curved waistband. There was not any gaping and I didn't have to make an alteration to it. Instead of using the fashion fabric on the waistband facing, I used the lining fabric because I didn't want to take a chance that the wool would be itchy. I finished off the facings with the 1/4" wide bias tape, just like on a lot of RTW trousers.

I didn't like the faux flap back pocket option so I created double welt back pockets and included the pocket bags and all. I used Claire Shaeffer's method from "High-Fashion Sewing Secrets From the World's Best Designers". The front pockets are triangular shaped, button flaps. I love the front pockets. They are the type that extend to the CF which eliminates gaping. Since view A was the cuffed variation, I opted to use this one so I wouldn't have to alter for additional length as I would normally have to do. I added hem tape to my 1 1/2" hem and left them extra long to be worn with heels.

I decided to accessorize with a black wide croc-embossed leather belt and a pair of lace up cap toe boots.

McCall's Winter/Holiday 2007

M5513 - I think this jacket is cute. Even thought it's a Hilary Duff pattern, I like the shaping of it and I still think it would look really cute over a pair of jeans with boots even if I am a G.A.W. (grown azz woman)!

M5512 - I love this dress too. I would add a little bit of length to it so it falls right above the knee, do it in a brocade and this would make quite the class little cocktail dress.

M5555 - This dress so cute, I've actually been considering making a dress on this style. Adrienne, remember we saw this dress at Gus? Can't remember who the RTW one is by, but it sure did inspire me.

M5515 - Another Hilary Duff... I like this one and I think it would look great sewn up in a hide or even a faux leather.

M5525 - This is the cutest trenchcoat pattern! Look at view B, I added the technical drawing so you could get a good look. I am soooooo making this. The Fall/Winter here is usually quite mild and this would be so perfect! I am loving those balloon/lantern sleeves!

McCall's 5471 - The Classic White Shirt with a Twist!

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 5471, View B
Fabric: 100% Cotton
Notions: eight 1/2" buttons

Description: Semi-fitted shirt has princess seams, mock front band, collar, collar band, shaped hem and 3/4 length "bubble” sleeve ruffle with stay.

I love this shirt. Here's all of the reason's why: First of all, just like Simplicity, McCall's now have patterns based on cup sizes (Made-For-You). You know what this means don't you? NO FBAs NEEDED! It doesn't get any better than that. This pattern came right out of the envelope ready to be cut and sewn and the fit is pretty dang good! I cut the size 16, according to my high bust measurement for the D cup (based on my full bust size) and brought it out to a size 18 at the waistline to the hem. I didn't have to lengthen... when I did my flat pattern measurement, I was comfortable with the length.

I love princess seams. I know a lot of sewers find them to be difficult to sew and fit, but this is a great pattern. It is very well drafted and all of the pieces lined up perfectly. To ensure that my front seamlines were perfectly smooth, I staystitched, clipped the curves and pressed as I sewed.

Another aspect of this shirt I love is the collar band construction. Those pieces went together quite smoothly with RTW styled results.

And the part that really sets this shirt apart from being a plain white shirt are the cuffs. Bubble, cocoon, lantern, tulip or whatever you want to call this sleeve, but I'm calling it HOT because this is what you will be seeing EVERYWHERE this Fall... so get use to it! LOL

BCBG Max Azria, $118 - Nordstrom

I foresee this pattern becoming my "TNT" shirt pattern. I plan to combine this with McCall's 4922 for the different sleeve/cuff variations. I had done a muslin on M4922 along with my required FBA and I think I'll be using this one instead... why go through all of the necessary work. I highly recommend this pattern... I can't say too many times that it's very well drafted and how all of the pieces went together perfectly. Also, if you have never tackled a stand collar, this is a good one start with (also M4922). All of the instructions are clear and concise.

Couture Knits

Knits are another big trend this Fall, especially chunky knits.

Giles tangerine oversize wool scarf, Image courtesy of Vogue, Sept. 2007

Giles olive wool cardigan, Image courtesy of Vogue, Sept. 2007

"Soft Chunky" by Twinkle by Wenlan, Image courtesy of Vogue Knitting, Fall 2007

I like this chunky cardigan by Twinkle and not to mention that this will be a very easy knit -- done on US size 15 and 17 needles!

Erica B.'s - Top Ten Fall Trends

1. Check Mate - Houndstooth (Fabric Trend)

Donna Karan, Fall 2006 (V2983)

2. The Color Purple (Color Trend)

Nanette Lepore and Donna Karan

3. Shades of Gray (Color Trend)

Chaiken - Fall 2007

4. Bubble Sleeves (A new take on the white shirt)

BCBG, $118 - Nordstrom

McCall's 5471

5. Capes

Emilio Pucci

Vogue 2924

6. A Funnel-Neck Shift

Mariemarie, $525

Vogue 8413

7. Wide-legged Trousers

DKNY

Vogue 2981

8. High-Waisted Skirt

Rock and Republic skirt

Vogue 8425

Now you need something for your feet!

9. Mary Janes

For a streamlined look, pair these with opaque tights of the same color and wear them with dresses and skirts.

Steven by Steve Madden, $100

Christian Louboutin, $720

10. The Ankleboot

Corso Como, $185

Via Spiga, $249

Disclaimer: These selections are what I like... always use common sense and know what works for you.

Butterick Fall Patterns

Here are my picks:

You just can't go wrong with a jersey dress. This cute little number will take you into Spring.

I love the front of this dress! Another one that will take you from Fall to Spring and then you can use the sleeveless version for the Summer.

I love this one too! It's long length screams that it wants to be grey and worn with long boots!

You'll be definitely seeing this little jacket sewn up here! I plan to do the double-breast version and use the sleeves from the white one.

This is an easy piece that's great for layering.

These are made to be sewn using knits and the pants and tops are great alternatives to fugly, funky sweats (can you tell I'm not a fan).

Nordstrom Designer Preview

I know it's only July, but I'm sooooooooo ready for Fall. Here's a great video put together by Nordstrom, previewing their Fall Designer Collections.

Vogue Fall Patterns

First, a little eye candy of some of my favorite RTW designs:

Now... for the Vogues that I'm loving:

Sunday Sewing Randomness

While flipping through my favorite magazine - Lucky, found this great article: "How to shop for tailored dresses". Lo and behold there's the dress that's high on my "MUST SEW" Fall list! The Nine West dress is a deadringer for McCall's 5466. It's just a matter of cutting the pieces on the bias. Love it!

This Fall, I'll be starting "Project: Chanel Jacket". This is the wool/cotton/silk blend bouclé that I selected for my jacket. I'll be using Vogue 7975 as my pattern.

Wardrobe Contest/S.W.A.P.

While shopping with Adrienne in Hancock's a couple of weeks ago,

she pointed out this great fabric. It stayed on my mind all day and I ended up going back the next day and buying it.

to make this dress.Simplicity 3874, View B

I also picked up some denim
for a pair of bootcut jeans.

McCall's 5142

McCall Patterns - Fall 2007

M5466 - Does this look familiar? All of you fashionistas should definitely remember this "IT" dress from Fall 2006. This is McCall's version of the Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B. scoop neck plaid dress that was worn by many celebrities. I'm wondering now if Vogue Patterns will do a similar version with the pleats? It would definitely save me hours of modifying this one to get an exact look. Or I could just leave the skirt straight and just use a surplus-style pocket cut on the bias like the original dress. I'm thinking on this one...

M5478 is also a L.A.M.B. interpretation. I think it's cute and I'm such a jacket kinda girl since I live in such a warm climate. By adding some interlining, this one could easily take me into January.

M5464 - This cute jumper looks to be inspired from Luella Bartley's Fall 2006 collection. I think this would definitely look cute over a fitted turtleneck and tights.

M5467 - The strapless jumper. I've seen so many variations of this style. I don't know if this will be on my "MUST SEW" list, but IF I do make it, I will be wearing it with...

M5471 - I love this white shirt! I love that it has princess seams! I love the dramatic cuffs!

Designer - Elena Miro

Too fat for fashion? No such thing! Italian designer Elena Miro has proven that even if you have curves, you can still be fantastically stylish, trendy and dynamic!

Fall 2007