McCall's 5190 - Military Jackets for Spring!

I've fallen in love with the look of the military jacket for Spring!

Nicole Miller & Tory Burch

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 5190
Fabric: Faux Nubuck
Lining: Cotton Batiste
Notions: Twelve - 3/4" buttons; shoulder pads

Description: Semi-fitted lined jacket has princess seams, collar, shoulder pads and two-piece sleeves with sleeve band; flaps; epaulets; peplum and topstitching.

I cut this pattern in a size 16 and made a 1/2" FBA. I added 2" to the body and 1" to the sleeve. The instructions were super easy and the pattern pieces were well drafted. I used every pattern piece and combined all views for the look that I wanted. I used a nubuck from the home decor section and lined with cotton batiste. I used sew-in interfacing since my use of heat was limited. I opted for bound buttonholes instead of machine made and just used machine holes on the lining. I didn't use the nubuck for the facing, I used the batiste instead. I also added a hang chain which I guess you can say is becoming my signature in jackets.

Vogue 8480 - The Freesia Trench Jacket

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 8480
Fabric: Silky Wool
Lining: Silk Charmeuse
Notions: Bias tape, chain, five - Dritz Cover Buttons (1 1/8"), five - 1/2" buttons, one - 1" button, Palmer/Pletsch PerfectFuse Medium Interfacing

Description: Unlined Lined jacket has front and back princess seams, pockets in side front seams extending into pleats, back lower section with pleat, cropped flared sleeve, self faced front, back yoke and topstitching detail.

The instructions were very easy to follow and all of the pattern pieces were very well drafted. There was nothing that I disliked about this pattern. I really love the topstitched details, the pleating. The pockets could have been larger and deeper though.

I was browsing in Hancock and discovered this fabric and it just happened to be the perfect color. When I saw this pattern, I knew right then that I would make it in one of the "happy" Spring colors and I knew it had to be bright... a standout color. This fabric was with the wools & wool blends and was on sale when they were. The label said, "100% silky wool". It feels wonderful and it has the texture of a twill.

The Inside
The fabric was a bit lightweight for my jacket standards, so I decided to line it. I had leftover silk charmeuse from the Chanel project and decided to partially line... only the body and not the sleeves. For all of the exposed seams, I used a Hong Kong finish. And I added a hang chain.

Oh, almost forgot... I added 3 inches the body and the sleeves.

The Buttons and Buttonholes
I couldn't for the life of me find buttons that "did it for me". I did my usual and just covered them. All of the high-end RTW jackets I saw had bound buttonholes and of course mine would have them too. I used regular machine buttonholes on the facing. I also decided to use a button to hold the lapel down (just a design feature), since I'll never fastened it up to the neck. I reinforced the shank buttons on the facing side with the 1/2" flat buttons by stitching through both buttons.

The Undercollar and Center Back Seam
The undercollar is traditionally cut on the bias in two pieces with a center back seam. This is essential to make the collar roll softly around your neck. This pattern has a full pattern piece. I folded the pattern piece in half and creased it at the center back. I opened it out and added a cutting line 5/8" from the crease. I cut along the line to create a new undercollar pattern and added a bias grain arrow so I would remember to cut it that way.

The instructions suggested that center back seam of the jacket is pressed to one side and topstitched 3/8" from the seam. I didn't like that at all... it lacked symmetry. I pressed the seam allowance open and created a welt seam which is a regular seam pressed open and topstitched from the right side on both sides of the seam.

All of the hems are 1 1/4" wide and interfaced. An interfaced hem adds weight and improves the way a garment hangs. Also, at the mitered corners, I inserted a penny into each one for additional weight so that the corners would hang correctly.

Even with the minor changes I made, I think it still looks like the pattern envelope.

Biker Jackets for Spring!

Lucky, March 2008

Vogue 2973

Denim Diva Biker Babe Jacket

Even before I picked up the March issue of Lucky, this jacket was on my list. Just so happens I have the perfect piece of fabric - white denim in my stash.

You don’t need to be a Harley-rider to rock a biker jacket. The notched collar and two-way zip front gives this modernized biker jacket some vintage flair. Pair it with your favorite pair of boot-cut jeans or even a skinny black pencil skirt, and you’ll be trendily styled for spring.

Inspiration...

I received my Saks email this morning showing the Premier Designer Resort Collections. I always look at Resort to get an idea of what I may want to sew for Spring. There were a couple of pieces that really stood out to me.

Akris - Basketweave Zip Front Jacket

Vogue 8134

This is a great Jacket from Akris and Vogue has a similar design. I would modify this pattern by adding gentle waist shaping because it is a little boxy. I would reduce the front edges and add a separating lapped zipper. I wouldn't cuff my sleeves, so I wouldn't have to modify those.

Akris Punto - Leather Notched Collar Jacket

Vogue 2987

I also spotted this jazzy lambskin jacket. I've had this pattern pinned to my corkboard for while now. I had been debating whether to do it in suede or leather. I think leather may be my choice. Notice that Akris does not use buttons, this jacket has snap closures. And it's lined with luxurious Cupro Bemberg!

Question:
I love high-end RTW and I knock it off every chance I get. Where do you find your inspiration for what you sew?

Chanel Jacket: Update #2

More adventures in dilettante couture!

Once upon a time, I use to say that I hated handsewing with a passion. This project has really challenged my handsewing skills. I've always been impressed by the details of hand-workmanship and always felt that I didn't have the patience for it. I am so proud of myself. Who would have thought I would be able to make perfectly, invisible catchstitches! The next time you flip through Vogue magazine and see a couture garment priced upwards to 5 figures... trust me, it's priced correctly! You never have an appreciation for things like that until you sit down to do it yourself.


Okay... this is where I so far. I've done everything except sewn on the sleeves, the trim and the chain at the hemline. It was an adventure getting the plaid to match in the curves of the princess seam.

None of the resources I previously listed gave any instructions for the pockets, so I used common-sense and winged it. I knew that the top of the pocket was to be folded under, creating a facing and I also had to fold all of the seam allowances under. I quilted the lining to the pockets and trimmed it down to reduce the bulk. I handstitched the trim and fell stitched the pockets to the jacket.

As you see here, I used my walking foot and quilted down the white lines in the fabric because the lining fabric was white and I wanted to make sure that the thread blended into the boucle.

Here are the 3 piece sleeves waiting to be sewn together .

Chanel Jacket: Update #1

Note: I am much further along than this, but I thought I should break the posts up

FBA on shoulder princess seams

I decided to post how I did this because most of the online tutorials focus on armhole princess seams.

When I tissue fitted the pattern on my dressform (which is padded to my exact measurements), the pattern's center front did not meet the center front of the dressform.

I unpinned the seamline in the bust area and pulled it over to line it up correctly. I determined that I would need to add 2" to the width.

I unpinned the pieces and pressed it flat.

In order to move the seam over to the correct position, I cut pattern from the bottom up, 1 1/2" from the left edge, stopping 5/8" from the top at the shoulder seam. This creates a hinge.

Half-way between the bust notches, cut horizontally up to, but not through the vertical cut edge. This spread will be minor. I then spread the pattern pieces 2"** and filled in with tracing paper.

**Cup size is determined by the difference between the high bust and the full bust:

1" = A
2" = B
3" = C
4" = D
5" = DD

The band size is your chest measurement below the bust.

I adjust for a FBA 1/2" per cup size.

This week's sewing...

The Chanel Jacket: Evoking an Icon

What a bad blogger I am! LOL I didn't even realized that it has been a whole week since I lasted posted. So, if you wonder what I've been doing, I've been doing extensive research for my version of the ICONIC - Chanel Jacket! Yes, this jacket requires research! I've become completely obsessed with all things Chanel and the idea of making this jacket. I have gathered my fabric, chose silk charmeuse for the lining, selected my trim (still need to pick buttons), found my patterns - Vogue 7975 as my base pattern, and Vogue 8259, because 1) I absolutely love the three-piece sleeve construction and 2) the couture construction techniques and quilting details. What I love most about this jacket is the fact that it can be dressed up or down... I'll wear mine most with jeans and remain très chic!

Here are my list of references:

• Jackets For Real People - for the fitting details
• Couture Sewing Techniques - the section on "Chanelisms"
• "Inside Secrets of a Chanel Jacket", Threads #121-Oct/Nov 2005
• The Sewing Divas
• Marji's version of Vogue 7975

Over the next couple of weeks, I plan to make very picture oriented detailed posts documenting this entire process.

BTW, If you wanted to try this jacket and didn't want to do all of the couture techniques, there is a great article -- "Shortcuts to a Designer Jacket" in Threads #128-Dec 2006/Jan 2007.

Simplicity 3631 - Adding Some Color!

Brightening up my monochromatic wardrobe!

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3631, View B
Fabric: Faux Suede
Notions: Three Dritz Half Ball Cover Buttons (1 1/2"); lining fabric for seam binding; 4" chain

Description: Jacket has oversized covered button fastenings, cropped cape-like raglan sleeves, and belt.

I cut jacket in a size 16, using a faux suede. This pattern is very easy, even a beginner could have smooth sewing on this. I didn't like the reversed pleats that the instructions suggested, so I made the pleats the "normal" way and topstitched them on the right side. I'm so accustomed to lining my jackets and since a lining was not required for this one, I used a Hong Kong finish for the seams. I found lining fabric in a similar color to the fashion fabric and cut 1" strips on the bias. I sewed these to my seam allowances by stitching 1/4" from the edge, trimmed to a scant 1/8", folded the bias strip over and ditch stitched on the right side. I also decided to go with bound buttonholes. I ran across a fantastic tutorial on the Sew-4-Fun blog... one of the easiest I've seen. I'll be using it for welt pockets also. And for a finishing touch, I added a hang chain to the back. I sewed this in right underneath the back facing. While snoop shopping, I noticed these were prevalent on high-end RTW jackets.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the outcome of this jacket. I feel that I took a simple pattern and transformed it into a designer looking garment.

McCall's 5329 - White Linen Jacket

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5329, View B
Fabric: linen blend and cotton batiste for the lining
Notions: Three 1 1/8" buttons

Well, the Nanette Lepore knockoff is finally complete! Yeah for me! I ran into a sizing problem... I guess I miscalculated the finished size. I ended up having to start from scratch, so we'll consider the first a "muslin".

• I went back and cut everything above the waist in a size 16, and the bottom of the jacket in a size 18 (it was originally tight across the hip).
  
• I made a 1" FBA and added 1" to the length.
• Interfaced the entire shell because of the lightweight linen fabric.
• I cut the lightweight interfacing on the bias to provide a better drape.
• Since the pattern did not provide separate pattern pieces, made a 1/4" allowance for "turn of cloth" for collar and lapels.
• The waistband is attached by sewing to the outside of the jacket shell and inserting the ends into the front dart and encasing.
• I cut my darts opened and pressed flat using a tailor's ham to reduce bulk. The instructions suggested pressing to one side.

I can't really tell you whether or not the instructions were easy because I hardly used them because the construction was pretty basic for a jacket. The only time I referred to them was when I put the waist band on. This is a Sew News pattern and they are known for having great step by step instructions and tips throughout.

I really like that this Summer jacket included a lining; I love the elbow length sleeve with ruffle and the semi-fitted style. Since this jacket has a unique style, I think this will be the only one needed in my collection so I will not be sewing this one again, but it is a definite winner.

Sunday Sewing Randomness

While flipping through my favorite magazine - Lucky, found this great article: "How to shop for tailored dresses". Lo and behold there's the dress that's high on my "MUST SEW" Fall list! The Nine West dress is a deadringer for McCall's 5466. It's just a matter of cutting the pieces on the bias. Love it!

This Fall, I'll be starting "Project: Chanel Jacket". This is the wool/cotton/silk blend bouclé that I selected for my jacket. I'll be using Vogue 7975 as my pattern.

Wardrobe Contest/S.W.A.P.

While shopping with Adrienne in Hancock's a couple of weeks ago,

she pointed out this great fabric. It stayed on my mind all day and I ended up going back the next day and buying it.

to make this dress.Simplicity 3874, View B

I also picked up some denim
for a pair of bootcut jeans.

McCall's 5142

Nanette Lepore Knockoff -- Part I

So far, I've done:

• Cut out a size 14, according to my 36" high bust measurement.
• Made 1" FBA for the jacket shell.
• Interfaced the entire shell because of the lightweight linen fabric.
• I cut the lightweight interfacing on the bias to provide a better drape.
• Since the pattern did not provide separate pattern pieces, made a 1/4" allowance for "turn of cloth" for collar and lapels.
• The waistband is attached by sewing to the outside of the jacket shell and inserting the ends into the front dart and encasing.
• I cut my darts opened and pressed flat using a tailor's ham to reduce bulk. The instructions suggested pressing to one side.
  

right and wrong sides of band and darts

More to come...

McCall Patterns - Fall 2007

M5466 - Does this look familiar? All of you fashionistas should definitely remember this "IT" dress from Fall 2006. This is McCall's version of the Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B. scoop neck plaid dress that was worn by many celebrities. I'm wondering now if Vogue Patterns will do a similar version with the pleats? It would definitely save me hours of modifying this one to get an exact look. Or I could just leave the skirt straight and just use a surplus-style pocket cut on the bias like the original dress. I'm thinking on this one...

M5478 is also a L.A.M.B. interpretation. I think it's cute and I'm such a jacket kinda girl since I live in such a warm climate. By adding some interlining, this one could easily take me into January.

M5464 - This cute jumper looks to be inspired from Luella Bartley's Fall 2006 collection. I think this would definitely look cute over a fitted turtleneck and tights.

M5467 - The strapless jumper. I've seen so many variations of this style. I don't know if this will be on my "MUST SEW" list, but IF I do make it, I will be wearing it with...

M5471 - I love this white shirt! I love that it has princess seams! I love the dramatic cuffs!

S.W.A.P. Changes!

I'll probably be changing pieces out until I make my last garment! LOL

M5395 is out!


M5329, the Nanette Lepore knockoff is in!

Vogue 2923 - 1st Project of the New Year!

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 2923 - DKNY Jacket
Fabric: PVC Nubuck

Description: Semi-fitted, unlined jacket has princess seams, collar extends into front band, slightly dropped shoulders, pocket, french seams and two-piece sleeve.

This pattern was rated Vogue Average and IMO, I felt it was actually one the easiest VP's I've done. I cut this pattern in a size 14. Even though, the pattern recommended a lightweight Gabardine and lightweight Denim as the fabric, I chose to use a PVC Nubuck because I-DARE-TO-BE-DIFFERENT and garbardine or denim was not in my vision! As you can see, my results turned out great and it's best sometimes to follow your own instincts. I love the fact since this was an unlined jacket that it has french seams which made the inside just as good-looking as the outside. The only modifications I made is that I left off the decorative trim and I took the waist in a tad bit so the jacket would be fitted instead of "semi-fitted" for a more tailored look. I did have to move the front darts over about half an inch. I used an eye and hook for closure. I love the fact that this jacket has topstitching... even on the armscye. The pattern "claimed" that the shoulders are slightly dropped... well, not on me they aren't. Also, since I was working with PVC, I couldn't exactly do a lot of ironing, so I relied on Fabri-Tac in certain areas.

This is a great looking jacket, that is an awesome wardrobe addition. Even though I have fallen in love with it, this will be the only one I will make. A girl will only need one jacket with a dramatic collar such as this in her wardrobe.

Armani - Knocked Off!

I've been enamored with this coat since I saw it on Joy Bryant in the August 2005 issue of Instyle magazine and lo and behold, Vogue Patterns came up with a version.

Instyle, August 2005


Giorgio Armani, Fall 2005 RTW

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 8307, View A
Fabric:
Body - Melton 100% Wool
Lining - 100% Polyester
Notions: 1/2" shoulder pads, one 3/4" button, 3/8 yd. of cording, three 2" buttons

Description: Lined, fitted, hip length jacket has asymmetrical collar and front closing, princess seams and shoulder pads.

This pattern is rated easy and it went together a lot easier than it probably looks. I cut view A, in size 14, according to my high-bust measurement (36"), and about 2" below the waist I graduated to size 18 to compensate for the "child-bearing" hips. I also did a FBA (full bust adjustment) according to Debbie Cook's "FBA on Princess Seamed Bodice" . I added 2" to all of the body pieces because according to my measurements from neck to hip, I knew this was going to run short on us girls over 5'6". I was also concerned whether I would have to lengthen the sleeves but they were perfect. I probably could have cut this in the size 12 (for a "perfect" fit), but I wanted to leave the necessary ease to wear over a bulky sweater. I couldn't find any 2" buttons that "did it" for me so I decided to use the Dritz Half Ball Cover Buttons with some nubuck PVC that I have in my stash and this was the result. I will probably add a hook and eye to keep the collar in place.

There was nothing at all that I didn't like about this pattern. The instructions were very easy to interpret. What I liked most about this jacket is that even though I've seen a lot of peacoats this season, this was based on the same style but with much more flair. I like that it has waist shaping and the collar is serving up drama.

Ode to the Crop Jacket

It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got that swing...

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 4082
Fabric:
Body - 100% wool herringbone tweed coating
Lining - 100% polyester Asian brocade
Notions: three 1 1/4" buttons

This is my version of the Burberry cropped a-line coat that retails for a whopping $850! I couldn't find an exact pattern to copy jacket, but with a little modifying of this pattern, I got a similar look.

Modifications:

• used view C & F
• reshaped the front bottom edge from rounded to square
• added faux welt pockets on the front seam line
• added a lining to the jacket
• interfaced all of the front sections
• mimicked the topstitching of the Burberry coat
• shortened a few inches more than the pattern (I reallly like the length of all of the Balenciaga jackets for this Fall).

I'm quite pleased with the way this jacket turned out and moreso with the cost - $47.91!

Project Details:

Pattern: Vogue 2812 - alice + olivia
Fabric: 98% cotton/2% spandex denim
Notions: two jeans buttons; 7" brass zipper

Description: Close-fitting, straight, below-waist pants: floor length with fly zipper closure, non working front pockets, back patch pockets, carriers and stitched hems.

I used view B with the wide waistband. This pattern was rated Very Easy and it was. If you have ever done pants, this would be no problem. The only modification I did was lengthening. I added three inches to the adjustment line. I didn't really follow the directions, I just copied the way all of my jeans are topstitched and edgestitched. One thing I did notice about this pattern is that even though I cut my normal size 16, this jeans have a lot of ease which make for a very comfortable fit.

The Look of Houndstooth

Love these looks!

Project Details

Pattern: New Look 6619
Fabric:
Body - 100% woven cotton houndstooth
Lining - 100% polyester dull satin
Notions: Five 1" buttons and one large snap

Description: Misses lined jacket with collar and sleeve variations; size 8 - 18. I did View A, with the asymmetrical shawl collar and full length sleeves in my normal size 16. This pattern was very well written which provided an easy to sew garment. Instead of side seams, the jacket has side panels. This is another pattern were the upper collar is slightly larger than the under collar ... again, it attached perfectly. The only problem I encountered was through my own lack of attention to detail. On the under collar, I applied the interfacing to the right side of the fabric instead of the wrong side. I ended up spending half an hour peeling that off. I didn't have to make any alterations or modifications, I sewed straight from the directions. I think I will enjoy wearing this jacket with skirts, pants or even jeans. I recommend this one to anyone that wants to add something with a little flair to their wardrobe. Will I sew this again? Probably not since this is such a trendy piece. Plus, I plan on doing a coat with a similar style collar.