Weekend Casual!

Cropped Cargo Pants
very Safari Chic!

Shopbop, Nordstrom and Free People Clothing

Project Details

Pattern: McCall 5393, View B (modified)
Fabric: British Khaki Chino
Notions: 7" zipper; 5/8" button

Description: Pants have fly front zipper, slanted side pockets, flaps, two patch pocket variations, belt carriers, casing, drawstring waist, casing and drawstring lower edges.

I had been thinking that I really needed to add to my casual, casual wardrobe... you know the kind of thing you would wear if you were going to a concert in the park, the lake or on a picnic or cookout. I tragically don't have enough clothing like that and hate turning to athletic wear as my only choice. I did my usual and headed to the mall to get ideas and inspiration. I like to try things on before I take the time to make them. My first stop was to grab a pair of capris with the drawstrings in the lower edge. It was pure comedy how dumpy they made me look. Living in the suburbs, I see way too many women that choose capri pants as their go to casual wear. You know what else I realized? Most of the women wearing them, shouldn't be. It's just something about having pants stop below the calf. On me, they look like I just couldn't find pants in the right length. Ok... next. I then tried on a shorter pair, that hit right below the knee... hmmm... much better. I think the more leg you show, the more flattering the look will be. I knew I had glanced a pattern similar to the style I'd tried, so the search began. I chose this pattern.

In order to the get the look I wanted, I had to shorten view B. I cut off around 6 inches. These pants are constructed like most pants, with the exception of no waistband, only facings. I know they are drawstring pants, but as usual with the Big 4, there was an excessive amount of ease at the waist. I had to take them in about an inch at the CB. I also cut the back facing in half to create a CB seam. After the fact, I realized that I should have just added darts to each side. I'll do that next time if I make another pair. Not that I'm going to use them, but I really like the back pockets and the side pockets. The next modification I made was the casing for the lower edge. The instructions stated when sewing the seam of the outer leg, to leave an open space for the drawstring. I didn't like the look of that. I decided that I would create buttonholes on each side of the seam for the drawstring like on the waistband. Almost forgot... I didn't use the twill tape. I couldn't find any that was exactly the same color and I didn't want any type of contrast. I made fabric ties by cutting bias strips... pretty much the same way you would construct a spaghetti strap.

These are very comfy, casual and I'll probably make another pair.

Vogue Pants!

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 8156, View A
Fabric:
Body: wool crepe (with a small amount of stretch)
Lining: china silk
Notions: 7" zipper, four 3/4" buttons, two 5/8" buttons, hook and eyes, bias binding, hem tape

Description: Straight-legged pants (semi-fitted through the hip) have contour yoke with front button closure, mock fly zipper, carriers, back welt pocket with button flap.

• Thread Tracing
• The Fly
  
• The Pockets
• The Waistband
• The Hem
  

Other than the fact that I decided to use to back pockets instead of one and I omitted the cuffs, I think these pants look like the ones on the envelope when I was done sewing. The instructions were wonderful... there were no parts that I didn't understand or couldn't refer to one of my sewing books.

There was nothing that I didn't dislike about this pattern. What I liked most was that it was designed for a cuff, which provided extra inches for the inseam length. In my case, as I did not want a cuffed hem, this was perfect for me! I used a 1 1/2" hem.

I can't say I liked or disliked the waist ease. Claire Shaeffer's dartless construction method, as an alternative to darts is to use ease-basting before sewing on the waistband. Also, I would have preferred if the pants had an authentic fly instead of a mock one. What I loved best about these pants is the contour, wide waistband. This particular type of waistband is much more flattering on me than a narrower one. One funny thing is that I worked on these for what seemed like so long, that by the time I was done, I had actually lost a couple of inches and now they are a little big in the waist.

I recommend this pattern to anyone that is wanting to sew "outside of the box"... and to expand their knowledge.

Will I use this one again? Not his view, but I am planning a couple of more from view B with the darts.

Couture Pants - Part 3 - Pockets

Next up are the pockets. I first started with the pocket flaps. The pattern recommended hair canvas as the interfacing for the pocket flaps. I ran a test on the muslin and discovered that the hair canvas was too heavy and left the pocket flap too stiff. I decided to use Perfectfuse Light. As you see in the pic, the seam allowances are folded under and basted on both the fabric and the lining. The lining is seam allowance is folded under 1/8" more than the fabric. The seam allowance was secured with catchstitches. The fabric is topstitched and then the lining is handsewn to the fabric using fell stitches. Instead of the couture handsewn buttonholes, I decided to do machine ones. Hand buttonholes as you can imagine are quite daunting. I tried this out on my muslin and I was not pleased with the look. I'll practice more on this and try it out on a later project.

Next were the welts. Claire Shaeffer uses the strip method for her double-welt pockets. This is one of the easiest methods I've used and I highly recommend it. In (a) the strips are sewn to the right side of the garment. In (b), the slash is made and the welts are turned through the opening.

(a)(b)

The pocket flap is inserted between the welts and the pocket bag is sewn.

The pattern shows one pocket, but I decided to make two. I thought it looked whopsided on me.

Couture Pants - Part 2 - The Fly

On couture pants, the zipper is done by hand. At first, I feared this would be quite daunting because aren't all couture techniques suppose to be difficult? I was happily surprised. This is the easiest zipper application I've ever done! Sew-in interfacing is hand basted on both sides of the fly extension. I used 1/4" wide twill tape to stay the foldlines.

I finished the edges with my serger instead of using hand overcasting. Once the front sections are machine stitched together below the fly extensions, I turned in the extensions on the foldlines, basted at the waist edge and pressed.
The difference between this method and the ever-so popular Sandra Betzina method is this: When using the couture method, you topstitch the fly BEFORE you put the zipper in. And when you think about it, it makes so much sense! I always flub on my topstitching when the needle has to go across the zipper.

The zipper is sewn in by first basting it in place. Now, the part that scared me to death was handstitching it in. I'll admit, I didn't trust my handstitching ability in securing this zipper! The method that is recommended is called stabstitching. Stabstitching is used to sew through thick layers by inserting the needle into the outside and pulling it out on the inside. Then insert it from the inside and pull it to the outside. This stitch is very secure. The stabstitching was only done on the underlap (the side that is not seen by the public). For the right side, the zipper is based into place and secured with running stitches. In my opinion, this method produces a neater looking zipper and it also gives you more control. I'll be using this method for all of my fly fronts from now on.

Couture Pants - Part 1 - Thread Tracing

V8156

As if the "CHANEL" jacket was not torturous enough, I'm such a glutton for punishment that I decided to do a pair of couture pants. When doing couture sewing, there is thread tracing. Couture garments are generally marked with thread because it's a durable marking that is visible on both sides of the fabric. I marked my stitching lines on the garment with chalk. I thread traced the seamlines, crease line (lengthwise grain), crotch line, the fly opening, stitch line for the zipper and the welt placement.

New Look 6757 - Denim Trousers

Project Details

Pattern: New Look 6757, View A
Fabric: Herringbone Denim (100% cotton)
Notions: Bias tape; 7" invisible zipper; hook & eye

I was inspired to sew this pattern from a pair of Habitual Denim Trousers at Barney's and a pair of paper bag waist trousers worn by Beyonce. I really like the style, but I didn't want to go too high-waisted. I wanted to capture the essence of the trend without having a pair of pants that would be obsolete come Autumn.

I decided to use a herringbone denim that I found at Hancock's... another one of those "jewels" that I have penchant for discovering in there. I had to make a few alterations. I added 1/2" to the outer seams for additional room through the hip and also because my pleats were not laying flat on my muslin. I also added 4" to the length. These pants would have produced a 29" inseam if I had not. I added a CB seam to the back yoke. I did this by adding 5/8" to the pattern piece and cut 2 pieces instead of cutting it on the fold. It was a good thing I did this because I ended up having to take in the waistband.

These pants have darts in the back and one pleat on each side in the front and they have a side zipper. I used an invisible zipper and an eye & hook. I finished off the waistband facing with a Hong Kong finish as I always do on pants and skirts and sewed it down using slipstitches. I finished them off with a 1 1/4" hem. I decided to pair them with one of my favorite shirts, my McCall's 5471. I recommend this pattern based on how "beginner friendly" it is. It's one of the more simpler pants patterns I've done.

Kwik Sew 3155 - Activewear

Project Details

Pattern: Kwik Sew 3155
Fabric: Stretch Velour (cotton/spandex)
Notions: 2 eyelets

Description: Misses' top and pants. The pullover top has front neckline slits, the hoods are finished with narrow hems and has full-length flared sleeves. The pull-on pants have a stitched elastic waist and a self fabric drawstring that ties on the left side.

As with most Kwik Sew patterns, the pattern was extremely well drafted and the instructions were superb. This pattern was designed for knit fabrics with a 25% stretch across grain. This pattern uses 1/4" seam allowances. I used my serger for the entire construction. I used a 3-thread overlock stitch for the seams and a coverstitch for the hems.

I did have to make a few alterations to this pattern. But that's the norm with me. There are very few I can wear right out of the envelope. For the top, I wanted to make sure I would have enough room in the bottom across the hip. I cut a size large and blended to an x-lrg. 1" below the waist. I also added an inch to the length. As I do for all knit tops, I used fusible stay tape on the shoulder seams to prevent stretching.

For the pants, I cut the x-lrg. and added 3" to the length (can you imagine how short they would be if I hadn't). I pretreated this fabric by washing and drying as I would the finish garment. I wanted to take an extra precaution that I wouldn't have a too tight or too short garment after several trips to the washer and dryer. I added 1" wide elastic to the waistband and changed the placement of the ties. The directions suggested that they were to go on the side and the holes for the ties were to be buttonholes. I like my ties in the front. Don't you get sick of loosing drawstrings in the wash? I know I do. Instead of buttonholes, I decided to use metal eyelets and knot my ties on the ends.

This is fantastic loungewear that you can wear out of the house. I decided to throw on a fur vest with mine since it was so cold today.

It's feeling like Fall - FINALLY!

Project Details

Pattern: Butterick 5101 Views A & E
Fabric:
Top: cheetah print knit -50% wool/50% polyester
Pants: brown wool jersey

Description: Wrap front top with all-in-one sleeve, pleated collar extending into front neckline, side tie and straight leg pants have casing and elastic yoke.

I am really loving knits this season... I wouldn't mind an entire wardrobe of knits and stretch (think Yansi Fugel)! I love this pattern! Maybe it was also the fabric I chose that gave this knit outfit the polish it needed to keep from being "ordinary".

I cut both pieces in the size large (the sizes are XS - XL). On the top, I had to lengthen it by 2 inches. I had initially planned to do view B, the long sleeve top but after I added 2 inches to the front and back and also the sleeves, I didn't have enough fabric. Since the sleeves are made into the top as one solid piece, once I made my alterations, my fabric was not long enough (that sucked). So I decided to go with the short sleeve. Another thing that I really like about this top is that it has back darts which creates a very flattering line.

The neckline is pleated. This is created by joining the two front pieces together and stitching the pleats where indicated. Then stitching this part to the neckline of the back pieces to created a self-facing collar.

I added a strip of bias tape and the facing was turned back and slipstitched between the indicated marks. The great thing about this fabric, it has a spongy hand and the slipstitches disappeared into it.

The ties were added next by gathering the fabric underneath the and basting. The final look was one that creating ruching. As we all know, ruching hides a multitude of sins.

I finished with a 5/8" coverstitched hem.


The pants were really easy... basic pants construction. I did however have to add 3 inches to the length. They have a yoke which is sewn on like a waistband. The top of the waistband is folded over and sewn down to create a casing for the elastic waistband. I used a coverstitch for the topstitching on the the "yoke" seam and also on the hem.

ETA: For your entertainment! ROFL

Simplicity 3686 - Wide Leg Trousers

As you may have noticed, I working my way through the my 10 trends for Fall.




Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3686, View A & B
Fabric: Wool blend suiting
Lining: 100% Polyester
Notions: 7" zipper; one 3/8" button; four 5/8 buttons; 1/4" wide bias tape; hem tape

Description: Unlined wide leg trousers with wide contured waistband and button flap pockets. (cuffed hem optional)

I really like this style of pants and to me it's one of the easiest trends of this season. In my opinion, this style looks best when paired with a fitted top. I decided to wear this tailored shirt with them and the cuffs really balance out the legs.

These pants are constructed very basically with a fly front... if you've made pants before, these will not be a problem. I added in 3 1/2" of ease because I wanted a bit of a loose, slouchy look and they are very comfortable. These pants have a great rise which is right below the waist. I love the curved waistband. There was not any gaping and I didn't have to make an alteration to it. Instead of using the fashion fabric on the waistband facing, I used the lining fabric because I didn't want to take a chance that the wool would be itchy. I finished off the facings with the 1/4" wide bias tape, just like on a lot of RTW trousers.

I didn't like the faux flap back pocket option so I created double welt back pockets and included the pocket bags and all. I used Claire Shaeffer's method from "High-Fashion Sewing Secrets From the World's Best Designers". The front pockets are triangular shaped, button flaps. I love the front pockets. They are the type that extend to the CF which eliminates gaping. Since view A was the cuffed variation, I opted to use this one so I wouldn't have to alter for additional length as I would normally have to do. I added hem tape to my 1 1/2" hem and left them extra long to be worn with heels.

I decided to accessorize with a black wide croc-embossed leather belt and a pair of lace up cap toe boots.

Simplicity 3800 - Shades of Grey

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3800 - Views A & E
Fabric: Jersey knit

Description: Threads Collection - Twist Knot Top and Knit Pants

Talk about an easy outfit... it took me a whole 4 hours at the most to finish both pieces. This is what I would consider "play clothes"... easy, breezy loungewear. I would opt for something like this instead of normal sweats. I think I was the only sewer in blogland that hadn't made a twist top. This pattern was so easy, I barely had to make any alterations. I cut the top in a size 16, and graduated to size 18, 1" below the waist. No FBA was needed since the fabric that I chose is a 4-way stretch (similar to that of workout clothing) and I wanted negative ease. However, I did add 1" to the length. Also, I eliminated the facings. Like others that have made this top, I didn't see the need for facings on this type of top. You can't apply a lot of heat and they never want to behave on knit garments.

For the pants, I cut the size 18 and added 4" to the length. I did 90% of the sewing on the serger. I love the style of the twist top... I see more of these in my future! Also, this top has a back seam, which I felt added to the fit. I highly recommend this pattern for anyone who has never worked with knits before and also to anyone who would like to add quick and easy pieces to their wardrobe.

Simplicity 4135 - White Linen Pants

Simplicity 3867 top

Project Details:

Pattern: Simplicity 4135 - View A (modified)
Fabric:
Fashion Fabric: Linen (Linen/Polyester blend)
Lining: Cotton Batiste (100% cotton)
Notions: 7" zipper; two ½" buttons, one 5/8" button; ¼" wide bias tape and lace hem tape

I chose this pattern to make pants after making two pairs of shorts last year. It most resembles one of my favorite pair of casual pants - the Banana Republic Martin Fit Trousers. I really wanted a pair of white linen pants and I knew that using this fabric which is virtually transparent, I would have to line them. I decided to use batiste because it was heavy enough to serve it's purpose but still lightweight enough for Summer pants. Plus, it made a world of difference on how the pants draped.

To make the lining for these pants since the pattern did not provide instructions for one, I positioned the pocket yoke and the pants front together matching the dots and the notches and cut them as one piece added an inch to the lenth (leaving them one inch shorter than the pants). Since I was working with batiste, I used french seams on the inner and outer legs and just serged the crotch seam. I sewed the back darts the same as the pants, hemmed them 1 1/2 inches. I attached the lining by placing the wrong side to the wrong side of the pants, matching seams and darts and basted and then attached the waistband.

waistband, seam binding and lining


hems

front pocket and back welt flap pocket

* Cut waistband in size 18
* cut front, back and pocket at the top in size 18, graduating to a size 20 at the fullest part of hip
* On the pants back, scooped out the crotch
* Added 2 inches to the length creating a 34" inseam.
* Use the Sandra Betzina method of installing a flat fly-front zipper.
* Added faux flap pockets with welts to the back.
* I used 1/2" buttons for the back pockets sewing them to the pants and made buttonholes on the flaps.
* Used a bias finish on the waistband facing as you would see in most RTW Ladies' trousers.
* Used lace hem tape for the hem on the fashion fabric and 1 1/2" hem on the lining.
* In order to prevent gaposis at the CB, I sewed the waistband and facings at an angle so that it would form to the shape of my waist and the small of my back.