Simplicity 2933 - Another Spring Top!

Project Details:

Pattern: Simplicity 2933, view C
Fabric: Peachskin (100% polyester)
Notion: 1/2" single fold bias tape; 3/8" elastic

I first fell in love with this fabric... it was a great price. The bolt label said "peachskin - 100% polyester", but it felt like a washed silk. I didn't know what pattern I would use, so I bought my standard 2 yards. I was in need of more warm weather tops and discovered this one. This was a very simple pattern that can be whipped up in an afternoon. I put this one on the same scale as Simplicity 2938.

I didn't have to make any alterations to the pattern. I did however use french seams. I also used elastic at the waistline instead of the suggested ties. I didn't machine stitch my facings, I handstitched them for a cleaner finish on the inside. I like my garments to look good inside and out! I really like the pleats, front and back... I think they really make the top look interesting. Even though I doubt if I'll ever sew this again, I recommend this top as a great addition to a Spring/Summer wardrobe.

McCall's 5586 - Embellished Tunic

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 5586, View A
Fabric: Chocolate Matte Jersey

Description: Loose fitting tops have self-faced yoke, gathered front and purchased bias tape finished armhole; have gathered back; purchased metallic, plastic or acrylic jewel stones, flat sequins or beads to creatively embellish yokes.

This was a really easy top to make. I cut this out and had it made within a few hours (while doing things around the house, checking email and talking on the phone). I thought it would really be challenging to find embellishments for this top, but it was not. I wanted to stick with this season's global trend. I found these wooden pieces in Hobby Lobby that reminded me of African jewelry and provided the perfect tribal motif. I wanted to keep the embellishments kind of downplayed... more of a daytime look and not too "bling blingy".


This top was really easy to sew... side seams done on the serger, but the yoke facing was handsewn down. What I liked about this top was that the there were no armhole facings... they were finished with seam binding. This left a cleaner, neater look without the fear of the facings sticking out. I finished the with a coverstitched hem.

I cut the size 14 in this and I probably could have made this in the 12. I decided to belt this top because it looked a bit "maternity-ish". This was such an easy top to make, I may also make the v-neck style.

I've got yellow fever!

Image - Life & Style Magazine

Angie Harmon is wearing the Tory Burch "Elson" top

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2938, View B
Fabric: Stretch Charmeuse
Notions: 12" invisible zipper; grosgrain ribbon

If you are in need a cute, trendy top that's really easy to make, this is the one. When I initially selected the pattern, I didn't have a fabric in mind. I just knew that I wanted it to be this fantastic color! I was prepared to take my pattern to the register in Hancock and then leave and saw this beautiful charmeuse... and it had stretch to boot! I added 2" to the length. This was my first time working with a stretch charmeuse... it was um, er um... interesting to work with. Notice that the bodice is constructed with princess seams. Right at the bust, the directions stated that ease needed to be removed. This caused the fabric to pucker. I had to repeat the process a couple of times to produce a smooth seam. Also, this is NOT the easiest fabric to press, but I made it work with steam and a pressing cloth.

Instead of using the fabric tie, I used grosgrain ribbon. I wanted a look similar to the Tory Burch which appears to have the ties coming from darts or princess seams (I can't tell which). Placed mine in the side seams... just thought it would look better on me. The instructions suggested a lapped zipper but I used an invisible one instead. Overall, this is a great little top that can be whipped up in a couple of hours!

I also made another version of Simplicity 4076.
Not much to tell on this. I think everyone in blogland that sews has made this shirt or some variation of it.

I used a poly/lycra knit. I added about 3/8" to the neckband to make it slightly wider and 3" to the length. all of the hems are coverstitched.

The skirt is a simple a-line -- Simplicity 4036. This skirt is so basic and so simple... it's not much of a review to do. I used a lightweight garbadine. I sewed the side and back seams, zipper and facings. I did add a cotton batiste lining because I felt that the fabric was too lightweight to stand alone.

I have found this color to be completely addictive and I really don't know if I can stop! LOL Next time I shop for fabric, I've made myself a promise to keep walking!

McCall's 4922 - Tailored Shirt

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 4922, view C
Fabric: Pincord cotton (100% cotton); white cotton shirting (100% cotton)
Notions: Interfacing (100% bleached cotton muslin); Eight 1/2" buttons

Description: Semi-fitted shirts have princess seaming, collar and collar band, topstitch trim, and french cuffs

Inspiration:

Thomas Pink - City Gloriana Blue Women's Shirt - $180

I wanted to challenge myself on this project and have something a little more special than what the pattern company was offering. Instead of following the McCall's suggestions instructions, I decided to use David Coffin's - "Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing" as my guide.

I first had to take care of the fit by making my usual princess seam FBA. I also decided that I wanted my shirt to have a two-piece yoke. I looked at a couple of the tailored shirts in my closet and measured the width of the yoke. I made those measurements on the back pattern piece and cut it off. I added seam allowances to where I would join them back.

(click for larger pic)

Have you ever noticed the seams in your shirt or your husband's/boyfriend's shirt? No serged seams... they are flat-felled. You'll also noticed these in denim garments. This is just another way of encasing the seam. This technique is really interesting because you can actually use whichever side that piques your interest. The seams were really easy to do, even on the curved princess seams. They did however become challenging on the sleeves. (I should have photographed this... sorry I didn't) I sewed the flat-fell seam on the sleeves by sewing on the inside and rolling the sleeve out of the way as I sewed down. (I hope that makes sense) Also, it was rather difficult to do this on the armscye, but I made it work! If you click on the pic below, you'll see that I pinned up the shirt so that you can compare the right and wrong side seams. There is basically no difference.

(click for larger pic)

What I loved most about this shirt is the french cuffs! The pattern instructions recommended sew-in interfacing, but I used plain ole bleached muslin cotton (recommended by Coffin). Next time, I'll be brave enough to try out one of Coffin's fancy plackets. BTW, he has templates and pattern pieces in his book.

All of the topstitching is made 1/4" from the edge. I used a narrow hem but I didn't use my rolled hem foot. That thing really works my nerves and it's easier for me to just press the hem in place and sew it.

Of course on a tailored shirt, there is a collar and collar stand. I know that I read reviews where a few people have had a hard time attaching these. The go on pretty easy if you just take your time.
And on the inside of the collar stand, I decided to personalize!

I highly recommend this pattern for a great tailored shirt. And this book is a definite must have for your collection!

What I dislike about Vogue 8477!

I've been looking for more knit top patterns. You know the kind... easy to make... even easier to put on! I thought about his new one that VP has. BUT, the one thing that bugs me about this top is -- the contrast trim. If you look at the view in the upper right corner, your eye is immediately drawn to the left breast! That is just not a good place to put contrasting. If contrasting is to go there, shouldn't it be on both sides? You know... to add symmetry! Something about this creates a lopsided effect. I know that most women have somewhat uneven breast, but do we really want to draw attention to that? I don't! ROFL I think I still may consider this pattern, but it will definitely be in a solid color.

Kwik Sew 3155 - Activewear

Project Details

Pattern: Kwik Sew 3155
Fabric: Stretch Velour (cotton/spandex)
Notions: 2 eyelets

Description: Misses' top and pants. The pullover top has front neckline slits, the hoods are finished with narrow hems and has full-length flared sleeves. The pull-on pants have a stitched elastic waist and a self fabric drawstring that ties on the left side.

As with most Kwik Sew patterns, the pattern was extremely well drafted and the instructions were superb. This pattern was designed for knit fabrics with a 25% stretch across grain. This pattern uses 1/4" seam allowances. I used my serger for the entire construction. I used a 3-thread overlock stitch for the seams and a coverstitch for the hems.

I did have to make a few alterations to this pattern. But that's the norm with me. There are very few I can wear right out of the envelope. For the top, I wanted to make sure I would have enough room in the bottom across the hip. I cut a size large and blended to an x-lrg. 1" below the waist. I also added an inch to the length. As I do for all knit tops, I used fusible stay tape on the shoulder seams to prevent stretching.

For the pants, I cut the x-lrg. and added 3" to the length (can you imagine how short they would be if I hadn't). I pretreated this fabric by washing and drying as I would the finish garment. I wanted to take an extra precaution that I wouldn't have a too tight or too short garment after several trips to the washer and dryer. I added 1" wide elastic to the waistband and changed the placement of the ties. The directions suggested that they were to go on the side and the holes for the ties were to be buttonholes. I like my ties in the front. Don't you get sick of loosing drawstrings in the wash? I know I do. Instead of buttonholes, I decided to use metal eyelets and knot my ties on the ends.

This is fantastic loungewear that you can wear out of the house. I decided to throw on a fur vest with mine since it was so cold today.

It's feeling like Fall - FINALLY!

Project Details

Pattern: Butterick 5101 Views A & E
Fabric:
Top: cheetah print knit -50% wool/50% polyester
Pants: brown wool jersey

Description: Wrap front top with all-in-one sleeve, pleated collar extending into front neckline, side tie and straight leg pants have casing and elastic yoke.

I am really loving knits this season... I wouldn't mind an entire wardrobe of knits and stretch (think Yansi Fugel)! I love this pattern! Maybe it was also the fabric I chose that gave this knit outfit the polish it needed to keep from being "ordinary".

I cut both pieces in the size large (the sizes are XS - XL). On the top, I had to lengthen it by 2 inches. I had initially planned to do view B, the long sleeve top but after I added 2 inches to the front and back and also the sleeves, I didn't have enough fabric. Since the sleeves are made into the top as one solid piece, once I made my alterations, my fabric was not long enough (that sucked). So I decided to go with the short sleeve. Another thing that I really like about this top is that it has back darts which creates a very flattering line.

The neckline is pleated. This is created by joining the two front pieces together and stitching the pleats where indicated. Then stitching this part to the neckline of the back pieces to created a self-facing collar.

I added a strip of bias tape and the facing was turned back and slipstitched between the indicated marks. The great thing about this fabric, it has a spongy hand and the slipstitches disappeared into it.

The ties were added next by gathering the fabric underneath the and basting. The final look was one that creating ruching. As we all know, ruching hides a multitude of sins.

I finished with a 5/8" coverstitched hem.


The pants were really easy... basic pants construction. I did however have to add 3 inches to the length. They have a yoke which is sewn on like a waistband. The top of the waistband is folded over and sewn down to create a casing for the elastic waistband. I used a coverstitch for the topstitching on the the "yoke" seam and also on the hem.

ETA: For your entertainment! ROFL

"Comfortable does not have to mean ugly!"

Is that not the best quote? LOL Veronica Webb said that on Tim Gunn's show. And that's very applicable to the way I live. You can still be cute, stylish and comfortable without looking "ugly".

I guess y'all have figured out that I have an affinity for white shirts! What's simpler than a white shirt and a denim skirt? Nothing... too easy! And this is probably not the last one! LOL

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3684, view A & C
Fabric: Heirloom Cotton (100% cotton)
Notions: eleven 1/2" buttons

Description: Misses Threads Collection shirt with B, C, D cup sizes; with tuxedo bib front and bishop sleeves.

This pattern came right out of the envelope, ready to go. I cut the size 16 with the D cup. I used view C's front and back, so there was no need to lengthen. I used the collar and bib pieces from view A and Michael suggested I use the bishop style sleeves from view C. Unlike the last shirt I made, this one has real front bands. I referred to David Coffin's Shirtmaking book for construction tips. Since my fabric is very lightweight, I used french seams. I used Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Fuse white sheer interfacing.

I cut the bib pieces so that the stripes would fall horizontally. I also had to change the direction in which the collar stand and collar were to be laid out. Since this fabric is striped and the stripes are in the direction of the grainline, if I had cut the collar pieces on the fold as instructed by the directions, the stripes would have fallen vertically instead of around the collar. I added a bias tape binding to the collar stand because I like the clean edge look and I wanted to. LOL Even though I forgot to get a closeup, the cuffs have a 3 button closure. I finished this off with a narrow hem. Since sleeves are really making the shirts this season, this is another great wardrobe addition!

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 8426, View C
Fabric: Dana Buchman Silk Denim (100% silk denim)
Notions: Invisible zipper (cut to fit); hook & eye

Description: Below the knee skirt with shaped seams, back zipper, self-faced yoke and triple pleats with underlay.

This skirt is a unique variation of the pencil skirt with it's very flattering 1940's cut. Even though this is a "Vogue Easy" pattern, the pleats and underlays were very time consuming. The pattern is extremely well drafted and all of the uniquely shaped pieces went together perfectly. I chose view C because of the length. I'm a little "long in the tooth" to be running around in mini's for an everyday look. LOL I added seam binding to the facing and used Ann's method for a RTW - Style Zipper Facing. I serged all the edges and pressed them open. I added the belt loops from view B and I finished with a 2" handsewn hem.

McCall's 5471 - The Classic White Shirt with a Twist!

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 5471, View B
Fabric: 100% Cotton
Notions: eight 1/2" buttons

Description: Semi-fitted shirt has princess seams, mock front band, collar, collar band, shaped hem and 3/4 length "bubble” sleeve ruffle with stay.

I love this shirt. Here's all of the reason's why: First of all, just like Simplicity, McCall's now have patterns based on cup sizes (Made-For-You). You know what this means don't you? NO FBAs NEEDED! It doesn't get any better than that. This pattern came right out of the envelope ready to be cut and sewn and the fit is pretty dang good! I cut the size 16, according to my high bust measurement for the D cup (based on my full bust size) and brought it out to a size 18 at the waistline to the hem. I didn't have to lengthen... when I did my flat pattern measurement, I was comfortable with the length.

I love princess seams. I know a lot of sewers find them to be difficult to sew and fit, but this is a great pattern. It is very well drafted and all of the pieces lined up perfectly. To ensure that my front seamlines were perfectly smooth, I staystitched, clipped the curves and pressed as I sewed.

Another aspect of this shirt I love is the collar band construction. Those pieces went together quite smoothly with RTW styled results.

And the part that really sets this shirt apart from being a plain white shirt are the cuffs. Bubble, cocoon, lantern, tulip or whatever you want to call this sleeve, but I'm calling it HOT because this is what you will be seeing EVERYWHERE this Fall... so get use to it! LOL

BCBG Max Azria, $118 - Nordstrom

I foresee this pattern becoming my "TNT" shirt pattern. I plan to combine this with McCall's 4922 for the different sleeve/cuff variations. I had done a muslin on M4922 along with my required FBA and I think I'll be using this one instead... why go through all of the necessary work. I highly recommend this pattern... I can't say too many times that it's very well drafted and how all of the pieces went together perfectly. Also, if you have never tackled a stand collar, this is a good one start with (also M4922). All of the instructions are clear and concise.

Simplicity 3800 - Shades of Grey

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3800 - Views A & E
Fabric: Jersey knit

Description: Threads Collection - Twist Knot Top and Knit Pants

Talk about an easy outfit... it took me a whole 4 hours at the most to finish both pieces. This is what I would consider "play clothes"... easy, breezy loungewear. I would opt for something like this instead of normal sweats. I think I was the only sewer in blogland that hadn't made a twist top. This pattern was so easy, I barely had to make any alterations. I cut the top in a size 16, and graduated to size 18, 1" below the waist. No FBA was needed since the fabric that I chose is a 4-way stretch (similar to that of workout clothing) and I wanted negative ease. However, I did add 1" to the length. Also, I eliminated the facings. Like others that have made this top, I didn't see the need for facings on this type of top. You can't apply a lot of heat and they never want to behave on knit garments.

For the pants, I cut the size 18 and added 4" to the length. I did 90% of the sewing on the serger. I love the style of the twist top... I see more of these in my future! Also, this top has a back seam, which I felt added to the fit. I highly recommend this pattern for anyone who has never worked with knits before and also to anyone who would like to add quick and easy pieces to their wardrobe.

Simplicity 4112 - I'm seeing spots dots!

Self-portraits are so much fun... especially with a Syrah!

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 4112, View B
Fabric: Polka dot georgette (100% silk)
Notions: Five 3/8" buttons; 1/4" bias tape

I decided to do this very popular Builty by Wendy shirt is a sheer. I too had avoided sheers for quite sometime and decided to take on the challenge. This is a very simple pattern and if it had been sewn in a fabric with more body, it could have been completed in probably an afternoon. Since I sewed this in the sheer, I decided to take my time.

I gave most of the construction details in my previous post, but there was one other thing that I didn't include. The additional things I did was a bias-bound armscye. Since I used french seams, I decided that this was the best method for finishing the set-in sleeve seam allowance without resorting to serging, which would have looked unattractive from the right side of this sheer blouse. I did this by sewing the sleeve to the garment and wrapping a bias strip around the seam allowance. The front facing is done by turning back the the CF edge three times for a "self-interfacing" effect. Since my fabric was so sheer, I really feel that I could have used some interfacing right there.

I like the fact that this top is very cute and trendy and I love the mandarin collar. I decided to layer mine over a black cami. It can be worn untucked with the sash or tucked without it.

Simplicity 3867 - Silk Empire Waist Tunic

Floorboards Blouse, $98; Jessamine Blouse, $128

Dimensions Blouse, $248; Zapopa Babydoll, $78

S.W.A.P. Preview

Sew Stylish Magazine, Spring 2007

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3867, View C
Fabric: Silk Dupioni (100% silk)
Lining: Cotton Batiste (100% cotton)
Notions: 18" invisible zipper; hook & eye; 1" wide twill tape; lace hem tape

Description: Silk empire waist tunic

When I first saw this pattern, it really did nothing for me. It especially did nothing for me when I say it in Sew Stylish magazine. The way the dress and the top was shown on the model on the inside made her chest look like deflated balloons... talk about an ill fit. But I kept on seeing positive reviews on PR and decided to give it a shot by adding it to my S.W.A.P. collection. Plus, it looks very Anthro!

I always get a little concern with the fit of the bodice with sewing tops that aren't knit and don't have front darts or princess seams. When I did my tissue fit, I saw that my usual size 14 would not provide enough ease through the bust area. I cut the bodice front in a size 16 to compensate for my full bust size and cut the back in a size 14. I also cut the yoke (shoulder piece) in a size 16 for additional length and cut the skirt part in a 14. I used cotton batiste to line both bodice pieces and also used it for the interfacing of the yokes.

I added a waist stay using twill tape because when I did a fitting, the waist felt like it wanted to ride up underneath my bra. Since I was working with the dupioni that ravels something awful, I used french seams. The instructions suggested a lapped zipper installation and 99% of the time when I make a top or a dress, I ALWAYS use invisible zippers. I haven't done it yet, but I do plan to add lingerie guards to keep my bra straps in place.

Overall, this was a very simple pattern that is well drafted and I hardly read the instructions.

Simplicity 4076 - The Scoop-neck t-shirt

S.W.A.P. Preview

From l to r: Three Dots Classic Tee, Michael Stars Supima Tee, Semantiks Tee

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 4076, View D
Fabric: Cotton interlock (100% cotton)

Description: Scoop neck t-shirt

As you see, I'm getting all of the easy pieces out of the way before I run into those that will take a lot of time to resolve fitting issues.

I wanted a “good” t-shirt, that I could dress up or down. I was inspired by the luxurious Michael Stars t-shirt and a couple of others. I chose this simplicity pattern because it closely resembled the very popular scoop-neck style. This pattern is so simple that you could easily make a couple a day! It has 4 pattern pieces: front, back, sleeves and neckband.

I had seen many reviews at Pattern Review.com of this shirt and the thing that I noticed most was that they seem to run very short and on me it would look like it shrunk in the dryer... not cute. To solve this problem, I added 3” to the length. When I made my muslin, I noticed that the neckband was not quite wide enough (for me), so I added about 3/8” to it. All of the pieces were very well drafted. The only error I found was that the notches on the side seams did not match, but that was not big deal. I have completely fallen in love with this shirt and this will be my “TNT” t-shirt pattern.

Hot Patterns 107 - Key-hole back camisole

S.W.A.P. Preview
Project Details

Pattern: Hot Patterns 107
Fabric: Black & White Charmeuse (100% polyester)
Notions: 1 ¼ yd of ½” bias tape; 2 ½ yds of 1” wide ribbon

Description: Key-hole back camisole with a casing at the front & back necklines and ties together at the shoulder with ribbon.

I first saw the fabric and thought that it would be perfect for this top... you know the trendy, scarf-type tops that are really popular. As always with Hot Patterns, the instructions were simple, brief and straight to the point... perfect for the sewer that does not require a lot of visual instructions. The pattern pieces were well drafted. I used French seams for the sides, the armholes have a bias tape finish and the front and back facings are used as a casing for the ribbon. The back casing required a lot of fiddling and a good steam pressing to get it to actually look like the illustration... well, it did for me and my choice of fabric. Once I got it to look right, I pinned the casing to the ribbon and stitched it in place because I wouldn’t want to go through that every time I want to wear it. Since the key-hole is very low in the back, and the top has ribbon ties, I ran into a bra issue. I figured my best bet would be to just layer over a white tank so I could still wear a bra. I think this is a cool little Summer top that would make a great addition to my wardrobe.

Orange you glad it's Spring!

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 4589, View A
Fabric: Embroidered cotton voile (100% cotton)

Description: Square-neck pullover top.

Another easy pattern that sews up in an afternoon. I cut the size 14, according to me high bust measurement. Based on the shape of this top, I didn't need to make an FBA. I did add 2" to the length and at the waistline I cut to a size 16, since the to now reached the top of my hips. I decided to accessorize with a belt for waist definition because this type of top can look somewhat "maternity-ish". I love projects like this that are easy little wardrobe builders that take little to no time with fantastic results.

Pattern: McCall's 5330, View A
Fabric: Stretch Denim (97% cotton / 3% lycra)
Notions: Eight jean buttons

Description: View A has front button closure, topstitching and carriers.

I absolutely love this pattern! I cut the size 18 according to my hip measurements and I didn't have to make any modifications to it. The length and everything was perfect. The only thing I did was add denim-style topstitching. I'm going to use this one again in a white linen.

Anything But Basic - Skirt and Blouse Makeover

In the May issue of Lucky Magazine, they paired swingy square-neck blouses with button-front pencil skirts. Is this not the ultimate in easy dressing?

Lucky Magazine - May 2007

Here is the patterns I'll be using for this cool look:

Simplicity 4589

McCall's 5330

These are already on the cutting table!

Simplicity 3887 - YELLOW!

Just like everybody else, I've caught the yellow fever too!

Rachel Roy Layla Bell Sleeve Top, $295

Miu Miu Pintuck Detail Top, $480

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3887, View C
Fabric: Cotton Gauze (100% cotton)

Description: Pullover top

This top is ridiculously easy... I can't really do much of a review of this. I sewed this in like 3 hours while watching Wednesday night's primetime t.v. The only changes I made were to the sleeves. Instead of using view C with the elastic, I used the sleeves for view E. I did a rolled hem on my serger for the sleeves and the bottom. This pattern has 6 different variations and I will definitely use this one again for me and my daughter.

RTW Inspirations

JS Boutique Embellished Matte Jersey Halter Dress - $158, Nordstrom

Butterick 4978

Anna Sui Leaves in Shadow Top - $148, Anthropologie

Vogue 2947

Caliente! - Vogue 8251

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 8251 - View C
Fabric: Rayon/Lycra Jersey with 2-way stretch

Description: Close-fitting, pullover top has neckline and shoulder strap variations. A, B: front ties and ruched with elastic at sides. C, D: front tucks and front band.

This is a Vogue Easy pattern that was very "easy" to me until the time came to attach the the upper front and back piece. I think it may have been me and the fatigue of trying to get this top sewn in one day. After I used safety pins, played with the construction and tried the top on, it made since to me and I was ready to stitch. The back didn't quite look like the line drawing, but after some finagling, I managed to get all of the pieces turned to the public side. What I like most about this top is the tucks on the front. This design feature is very flattering to the décolletage. I was originally unsure about this even though it is rated easy, because I could not find a review for this particular view and the envelope only showed the line drawing. This is a great enhancement to your wardrobe that can be worn alone or as a layering piece.

Dolman Style

The Look of Dolman Sleeves

Project Details

Pattern: New Look 6648
Fabric: Rayon Jersey Knit

Big sleeves are big for fall -- dolman sleeves (the kind with armholes that reach to the waist, like a batwing) and kimono-style are part of the "I love the 80's" fashion remix and can add an element of sexy to this season's voluminous styles. This is a very *easy* to sew pattern that can be completed in a couple of hours -- it only has four pieces: front, back, neckband and lower band. All of the pieces went together very easily. The fabric I chose is very drapey which I think is best for this type of style. Anything heavier wouldn't hang right. I sewed this as directed with no modifications or alterations. On the neckband after attaching, it's topstitched on the public side of the top. The sleeves have a rolled hem (thanks to The Sewing Divas for the tutorial!) and there is ruching on the lower band. Overall, I have no complaints about this top, I love the style and I'll probably make the one with the v-neck next time.