This is Vogue 1384 - Donna Karan Collection. Even though in reality this is simply a "wrap dress", it was something that stood out about this design: bias-cut and self-lined. Now, doesn't that just sound interesting? Well, it does to me!
I used a heavyweight silk georgette from Mood Fabrics for this project. The pattern pieces are cut on the true bias, on a single layer. I used 100% silk thread; a Microtex 70/10 needle and a 2.0 mm stitch length.
I cut the 16 and graded out to the 18 at the hips. I went up a size (I would normally cut a 14 and grade to a 16) because this dress is made of silk. I didn't want to have "drag lines" and I didn't want to cause pulling at the seams. I added an inch at the waist and lengthened the rest by 2".
As many of you already know that when you sew anything cut on the bias, you have to allow it to have for 24 hours before hemming. And even after that, I still feel like this dress may be "growing".
For closures, this dress uses two 5/8" snaps. I covered mine with fabric and here's how:
- Using lightweight fabric, cut circles twice the diameter of the snaps -- for both the male and female sides.
- Sew a row of running stitches close to the edge of the circle. But DON'T cut your thread!
- Punch a small hole in the center of the circle.
- Work the ball of the snap through the hole.
- Pull the thread to close the circle around the snap.
- And sew on to your garment.
- Repeat these steps for the other side of the snap.
Being that this dress is "self-lined", I left my seams unfinished. With the exception of the sleeves and the armholes. I used my serger. I had ever intention of using French seams, but I was watching a movie and mindlessly sewing and I forgot! But nevertheless, the serged seams worked out fine.
Note: I also added a tiny snap at the center front. There is no way this dress is going to stay in place without one. And I really hate when people add pins!
This fabric which feels great inside and out is extremely luxurious. Not one that you would want to have to apply the seam ripper. And also, make sure you have to hang nails. It pulls very easily. So make sure if you work with this type of fabric, that you don't snag it!
Being that this is a wrap dress, I may or may not make this one again. What I do love most about this is that unlike many other patterns for wrap dress and there are plenty, this one is designed for a luxurious woven fabric. I could really see this one lengthened into a gown for a special occasion dress.