Pattern: Simplicity 4135 - View A (modified)
Fashion Fabric: Linen (Linen/Polyester blend)
Lining: Cotton Batiste (100% cotton)
Notions: 7" zipper; two ½" buttons, one 5/8" button; ¼" wide bias tape and lace hem tape
I chose this pattern to make pants after making two pairs of shorts last year. It most resembles one of my favorite pair of casual pants - the Banana Republic Martin Fit Trousers. I really wanted a pair of white linen pants and I knew that using this fabric which is virtually transparent, I would have to line them. I decided to use batiste because it was heavy enough to serve it's purpose but still lightweight enough for Summer pants. Plus, it made a world of difference on how the pants draped.
To make the lining for these pants since the pattern did not provide instructions for one, I positioned the pocket yoke and the pants front together matching the dots and the notches and cut them as one piece added an inch to the lenth (leaving them one inch shorter than the pants). Since I was working with batiste, I used french seams on the inner and outer legs and just serged the crotch seam. I sewed the back darts the same as the pants, hemmed them 1 1/2 inches. I attached the lining by placing the wrong side to the wrong side of the pants, matching seams and darts and basted and then attached the waistband.
front pocket and back welt flap pocket
* Cut waistband in size 18
* cut front, back and pocket at the top in size 18, graduating to a size 20 at the fullest part of hip
* On the pants back, scooped out the crotch
* Added 2 inches to the length creating a 34" inseam.
* Use the Sandra Betzina method of installing a flat fly-front zipper.
* Added faux flap pockets with welts to the back.
* I used 1/2" buttons for the back pockets sewing them to the pants and made buttonholes on the flaps.
* Used a bias finish on the waistband facing as you would see in most RTW Ladies' trousers.
* Used lace hem tape for the hem on the fashion fabric and 1 1/2" hem on the lining.
* In order to prevent gaposis at the CB, I sewed the waistband and facings at an angle so that it would form to the shape of my waist and the small of my back.