Friday, April 15, 2016

McCall's 6246 (Modified) | The Cropped Trench!

So, I was peacefully going about my life... just doing regular internet stuff.  You know how those ads follow you around from one webpage to the next?  Well, I had been looking at something on Farfetch.com, and along with that item they showed me this marvelous cropped trench!
Ralph Lauren Cropped Trench Coat, $2441.31 - Farfetch.com

Cute, right?  I was literally giving no damns about a cropped trench jacket.  And out of the blue, I saw this one too:
Michael Kors Collection, $1215 - Stylebop.com

Now, what is the likelihood that I would see TWO similar items that I wasn't even thinking about in the same day?  Internet web searching algorithms obviously.  But for the sake of fun, I'm going to call it sewing kismet!
So, I had to make one.  And why not, it's spring and I am currently wardrobe filling.  And I'm sort of having a "spring jacket moment" currently.  I had a gap in my wardrobe and didn't have any lightweight jackets.  I've never been a cardigan type of girl.  I use to simple rely on my denim jacket or my leather bomber, but I wanted different options.  I knew that I had a cropped trench jacket pattern in my collection.  And my search lead me to out-of-print McCall's 6246 from 2010.  But it was going to need slight adjustments to achieve something like I wanted.
I'd had this tan outerwear fabric in my stash for some years.  It's some kind of waxed cotton that is supposedly waterproof.  I remembered that's why I bought it from Hancock Fabrics years ago.  I only had 2 yards,  I think that was all that was left on the bolt, so I had to be very selective as to how I was going to use it.  I cut the size 14 of view A.  I first changed out the sleeves.  I'm not a fan of one-piece sleeves in jackets.  And I didn't want a jacket with puffy shoulders either.  So I replaced it with traditional tailored two-piece sleeves.  
I added epaulets.  That's one of the details that I feel, make a trench a "trench". 
I also added a buttonhole and button to the front yoke.  
And I also added an extra large hook and eye like ready-to-wear trench coats have.
My fabric is so lightweight weight that I had to add extra interfacing.  I interface the entire front and both the under and upper collar pieces.
I used the back yoke piece to create a back stay for the jacket.
My lining is a cute beige and white polka dot I found at Joanns.
The main thing about making a trench coat is finding enough of the same buttons.  I lucked up and found all of mine in a single shopping trip.  They're 7/8" tortoise buttons and I used 9 in the making of this jacket.  The only detail that I wished I had included were sleeve tabs.  But I literally used every possible of inch of my 2 yards of fabric.  I plan to make a full-length trench for fall and I'm going to use every possible trench detail in it.
Styling tip:  Since my trench jacket is classic tan, I decided to add color:  I wore one of my favorite red striped shirts, which is New Look 6735.  My Birkin Flares, blue bandana knecktie and red open-toe pumps.

36 comments:

  1. This is a great spring jacket. Love all of the trench details that you incorporated! What a wonderful use of 2 yards of fabric!

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    1. I made that fabric stretch with everything in me! Thanks Carolyn!

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  2. This is so beautiful!! Your sewing is amazing and I hope to continue to grow and get my own skills to your level of awesomeness!!! Love it!!

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  3. This screams spring! So well done!

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    1. We actually had a need for spring coats and transitional wardrobes this year! Thanks Kisha!

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  4. Beautiful details on this jacket.

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  5. Erica...this trench is absolutely beautiful..could you provide the finish sizing on your epaulets?? I found the pattern on Amazon and want to sew one for myself..Please and thank you:)

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    1. That's awesome! The finished size is 6"x1.5". Thanks Lora!

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  6. Wow, I love that. So wearable... all the best of a trench and a blazer in one. And you did a lovely job.

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  7. You never cease to amaze me! Will try and make a cropped trench coat for winter as we have quite mild winters in my part of the world.

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  8. Innovative in that I never would have thought of a cropped trench jacket. Love the entire outfit and that Tee brings back memories - I made it years ago. I'm going to dig out my tee shirt pattern RIGHT NOW!

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    1. It's such a great pattern! Thanks Faye;

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  9. I'm really loving that cropped trench look on you, and the blue and red really make the ensemble pop!!

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  10. I love this cropped trench-great job!

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  11. What a great idea I would've never thought of it but I love!

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  12. Love it! I never would have thought of a cropped trench but it's adorable and it looks great on you!

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  13. Beautiful, I love the details you added and it looks great on you!!!

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  14. First a Balmain denim jacket and now this! How do you always have the perfect OOP pattern in your stash? You should post a list of the patterns you buy each season so we can stash them too.

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    1. Ha! It comes from years of collecting!

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  15. When I first read the title I wasn't expecting it to be so cute. I guess when I think of trench coats, I think of something a little less fitted & more boxy, but you have completely nailed the fit on this. It's just loose enough to be a trench but fitted enough to make the perfect cropped jacket. Extremely well done!

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  16. Thank you for sharing all of the good construction tips and discussion of elements in a real trench coat. Such a good wardrobe piece!

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  17. Wow, that looks great and rivals anything rtw!

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  18. Great work; this is an amazing piece! Now...you have inspired me to make one for myself!

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