Sheath Dresses for Spring/Summer!

Valentino Couture - 2008

All from Saks. From l to r: Michael Kors, MaxMara, Chetta B.

New Look 6799, View C

Here is my muslin. I'm using a floral pique. I had to do a 1" FBA, raise the horizontal darts and grade the skirt up to the next size at the widest point of my hip.

Weekend Casual!

Cropped Cargo Pants
very Safari Chic!

Shopbop, Nordstrom and Free People Clothing

Project Details

Pattern: McCall 5393, View B (modified)
Fabric: British Khaki Chino
Notions: 7" zipper; 5/8" button

Description: Pants have fly front zipper, slanted side pockets, flaps, two patch pocket variations, belt carriers, casing, drawstring waist, casing and drawstring lower edges.

I had been thinking that I really needed to add to my casual, casual wardrobe... you know the kind of thing you would wear if you were going to a concert in the park, the lake or on a picnic or cookout. I tragically don't have enough clothing like that and hate turning to athletic wear as my only choice. I did my usual and headed to the mall to get ideas and inspiration. I like to try things on before I take the time to make them. My first stop was to grab a pair of capris with the drawstrings in the lower edge. It was pure comedy how dumpy they made me look. Living in the suburbs, I see way too many women that choose capri pants as their go to casual wear. You know what else I realized? Most of the women wearing them, shouldn't be. It's just something about having pants stop below the calf. On me, they look like I just couldn't find pants in the right length. Ok... next. I then tried on a shorter pair, that hit right below the knee... hmmm... much better. I think the more leg you show, the more flattering the look will be. I knew I had glanced a pattern similar to the style I'd tried, so the search began. I chose this pattern.

In order to the get the look I wanted, I had to shorten view B. I cut off around 6 inches. These pants are constructed like most pants, with the exception of no waistband, only facings. I know they are drawstring pants, but as usual with the Big 4, there was an excessive amount of ease at the waist. I had to take them in about an inch at the CB. I also cut the back facing in half to create a CB seam. After the fact, I realized that I should have just added darts to each side. I'll do that next time if I make another pair. Not that I'm going to use them, but I really like the back pockets and the side pockets. The next modification I made was the casing for the lower edge. The instructions stated when sewing the seam of the outer leg, to leave an open space for the drawstring. I didn't like the look of that. I decided that I would create buttonholes on each side of the seam for the drawstring like on the waistband. Almost forgot... I didn't use the twill tape. I couldn't find any that was exactly the same color and I didn't want any type of contrast. I made fabric ties by cutting bias strips... pretty much the same way you would construct a spaghetti strap.

These are very comfy, casual and I'll probably make another pair.

McCall's 5586 - Embellished Tunic

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 5586, View A
Fabric: Chocolate Matte Jersey

Description: Loose fitting tops have self-faced yoke, gathered front and purchased bias tape finished armhole; have gathered back; purchased metallic, plastic or acrylic jewel stones, flat sequins or beads to creatively embellish yokes.

This was a really easy top to make. I cut this out and had it made within a few hours (while doing things around the house, checking email and talking on the phone). I thought it would really be challenging to find embellishments for this top, but it was not. I wanted to stick with this season's global trend. I found these wooden pieces in Hobby Lobby that reminded me of African jewelry and provided the perfect tribal motif. I wanted to keep the embellishments kind of downplayed... more of a daytime look and not too "bling blingy".


This top was really easy to sew... side seams done on the serger, but the yoke facing was handsewn down. What I liked about this top was that the there were no armhole facings... they were finished with seam binding. This left a cleaner, neater look without the fear of the facings sticking out. I finished the with a coverstitched hem.

I cut the size 14 in this and I probably could have made this in the 12. I decided to belt this top because it looked a bit "maternity-ish". This was such an easy top to make, I may also make the v-neck style.

Crow is mighty tasty.

I had a hellacious last week... no time to sew for me and that is never good.

Remember way back when I expressed rather... um, era *STRONG* feelings about Simplicity's - Project Runway patterns? Um, yeah... I did find a couple that I like!

I am currently working on Simplicity 2923. I decided to go to another color from my Spring Color palette -- Cantaloupe. As you know, I am completely obsessed in love with Freesia, but I've resisted all urges to purchase. I was planning to make this shirtdress, but when I saw this one, the possibilities were just endless... it had so much more character.

Have you gotten your June/July issue of this? I am loving it already. And I think you know why!

I knew the momemt I saw this dress, I had to make it. I'm currently awaiting my Milliner Needles as suggested by Phyllis. There is a fantastic article on Ralph Rucci that is a must read. So, in between sewing, I've been researching how I am going to make a FBA on the bodice. I'm not sure yet, but I've seen a couple of possibilities in FFRP.

I've also been putting together more items for my Spring/Summer wardrobe:

• Vogue 1048, in an off-white cotton
  
• Vogue 1053, in a black silk... makes the perfect evening suit
• Vogue 1051, in dark denim
• McCall's 5393, in khaki
• Vogue 8184, in floral pique... check out Colette's customer Georgia!
• Simplicity 3538, in white denim... yep, another one of those PR patterns. This will be a J. Crew Fiona jacket knockoff. Check out the review that inspired me!

I am also on the look out for fabric and embellishments for these.

McCall's 5586 & Vogue 8486

Now for a second helping of Crow...

Remember when I had my doubts about Club BMV? Well... I joined! Boy did it pay off. I did not want to risk that CHADO Ralph Rucci pattern being sold out when they go on sale at Hancock!

Life's little lesson: Never say never!

Spring Trend: The Shirtdress

Piazza Sempione Stripe Shirtdress - $750, Nordstrom

The shirtdress is making a cutting-edge comeback this season. Throwing on a shirtdress is one of the quickest ways to look polished and pulled together.

My next project is Vogue 8028.Image - Vogue Patterns Magazine - April/May 2008

This pattern is one that I've never given a second glance, until I saw it beautifully made up by Claire Shaeffer in the latest issue of Vogue Patterns Magazine.

I will be doing mine in a grey and white pinstripe seersucker.

I've got yellow fever!

Image - Life & Style Magazine

Angie Harmon is wearing the Tory Burch "Elson" top

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2938, View B
Fabric: Stretch Charmeuse
Notions: 12" invisible zipper; grosgrain ribbon

If you are in need a cute, trendy top that's really easy to make, this is the one. When I initially selected the pattern, I didn't have a fabric in mind. I just knew that I wanted it to be this fantastic color! I was prepared to take my pattern to the register in Hancock and then leave and saw this beautiful charmeuse... and it had stretch to boot! I added 2" to the length. This was my first time working with a stretch charmeuse... it was um, er um... interesting to work with. Notice that the bodice is constructed with princess seams. Right at the bust, the directions stated that ease needed to be removed. This caused the fabric to pucker. I had to repeat the process a couple of times to produce a smooth seam. Also, this is NOT the easiest fabric to press, but I made it work with steam and a pressing cloth.

Instead of using the fabric tie, I used grosgrain ribbon. I wanted a look similar to the Tory Burch which appears to have the ties coming from darts or princess seams (I can't tell which). Placed mine in the side seams... just thought it would look better on me. The instructions suggested a lapped zipper but I used an invisible one instead. Overall, this is a great little top that can be whipped up in a couple of hours!

I also made another version of Simplicity 4076.
Not much to tell on this. I think everyone in blogland that sews has made this shirt or some variation of it.

I used a poly/lycra knit. I added about 3/8" to the neckband to make it slightly wider and 3" to the length. all of the hems are coverstitched.

The skirt is a simple a-line -- Simplicity 4036. This skirt is so basic and so simple... it's not much of a review to do. I used a lightweight garbadine. I sewed the side and back seams, zipper and facings. I did add a cotton batiste lining because I felt that the fabric was too lightweight to stand alone.

I have found this color to be completely addictive and I really don't know if I can stop! LOL Next time I shop for fabric, I've made myself a promise to keep walking!

McCall's 5190 - Military Jackets for Spring!

I've fallen in love with the look of the military jacket for Spring!

Nicole Miller & Tory Burch

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 5190
Fabric: Faux Nubuck
Lining: Cotton Batiste
Notions: Twelve - 3/4" buttons; shoulder pads

Description: Semi-fitted lined jacket has princess seams, collar, shoulder pads and two-piece sleeves with sleeve band; flaps; epaulets; peplum and topstitching.

I cut this pattern in a size 16 and made a 1/2" FBA. I added 2" to the body and 1" to the sleeve. The instructions were super easy and the pattern pieces were well drafted. I used every pattern piece and combined all views for the look that I wanted. I used a nubuck from the home decor section and lined with cotton batiste. I used sew-in interfacing since my use of heat was limited. I opted for bound buttonholes instead of machine made and just used machine holes on the lining. I didn't use the nubuck for the facing, I used the batiste instead. I also added a hang chain which I guess you can say is becoming my signature in jackets.

My picks from the new Vogues!

My Top Five Picks:

V1048

If I only sew one dress for Spring/Summer, it will DEFINITELY be this one! I am a huge fan of CHADO Ralph Rucci and this shirtdress is gorgeous!

V1053

This Montana suit is tailored HAUTEness! I would love this in white also.

V8502

I love this suit and it's very "of-the-moment"! I don't care for the cropped pants but the long pants and the jacket with the tab sleeves are similar to designs from Stella McCartney and Michael Kors.

V8486

This is an adorable dress with a pleated neckline. I would accessorize it with a great belt.

V8494

This dress is very ladylike and I like the view with the contrast bands.

McCall's 4922 - Tailored Shirt

Project Details

Pattern: McCall's 4922, view C
Fabric: Pincord cotton (100% cotton); white cotton shirting (100% cotton)
Notions: Interfacing (100% bleached cotton muslin); Eight 1/2" buttons

Description: Semi-fitted shirts have princess seaming, collar and collar band, topstitch trim, and french cuffs

Inspiration:

Thomas Pink - City Gloriana Blue Women's Shirt - $180

I wanted to challenge myself on this project and have something a little more special than what the pattern company was offering. Instead of following the McCall's suggestions instructions, I decided to use David Coffin's - "Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing" as my guide.

I first had to take care of the fit by making my usual princess seam FBA. I also decided that I wanted my shirt to have a two-piece yoke. I looked at a couple of the tailored shirts in my closet and measured the width of the yoke. I made those measurements on the back pattern piece and cut it off. I added seam allowances to where I would join them back.

(click for larger pic)

Have you ever noticed the seams in your shirt or your husband's/boyfriend's shirt? No serged seams... they are flat-felled. You'll also noticed these in denim garments. This is just another way of encasing the seam. This technique is really interesting because you can actually use whichever side that piques your interest. The seams were really easy to do, even on the curved princess seams. They did however become challenging on the sleeves. (I should have photographed this... sorry I didn't) I sewed the flat-fell seam on the sleeves by sewing on the inside and rolling the sleeve out of the way as I sewed down. (I hope that makes sense) Also, it was rather difficult to do this on the armscye, but I made it work! If you click on the pic below, you'll see that I pinned up the shirt so that you can compare the right and wrong side seams. There is basically no difference.

(click for larger pic)

What I loved most about this shirt is the french cuffs! The pattern instructions recommended sew-in interfacing, but I used plain ole bleached muslin cotton (recommended by Coffin). Next time, I'll be brave enough to try out one of Coffin's fancy plackets. BTW, he has templates and pattern pieces in his book.

All of the topstitching is made 1/4" from the edge. I used a narrow hem but I didn't use my rolled hem foot. That thing really works my nerves and it's easier for me to just press the hem in place and sew it.

Of course on a tailored shirt, there is a collar and collar stand. I know that I read reviews where a few people have had a hard time attaching these. The go on pretty easy if you just take your time.
And on the inside of the collar stand, I decided to personalize!

I highly recommend this pattern for a great tailored shirt. And this book is a definite must have for your collection!

Vogue 8480 - The Freesia Trench Jacket

Project Details

Pattern: Vogue 8480
Fabric: Silky Wool
Lining: Silk Charmeuse
Notions: Bias tape, chain, five - Dritz Cover Buttons (1 1/8"), five - 1/2" buttons, one - 1" button, Palmer/Pletsch PerfectFuse Medium Interfacing

Description: Unlined Lined jacket has front and back princess seams, pockets in side front seams extending into pleats, back lower section with pleat, cropped flared sleeve, self faced front, back yoke and topstitching detail.

The instructions were very easy to follow and all of the pattern pieces were very well drafted. There was nothing that I disliked about this pattern. I really love the topstitched details, the pleating. The pockets could have been larger and deeper though.

I was browsing in Hancock and discovered this fabric and it just happened to be the perfect color. When I saw this pattern, I knew right then that I would make it in one of the "happy" Spring colors and I knew it had to be bright... a standout color. This fabric was with the wools & wool blends and was on sale when they were. The label said, "100% silky wool". It feels wonderful and it has the texture of a twill.

The Inside
The fabric was a bit lightweight for my jacket standards, so I decided to line it. I had leftover silk charmeuse from the Chanel project and decided to partially line... only the body and not the sleeves. For all of the exposed seams, I used a Hong Kong finish. And I added a hang chain.

Oh, almost forgot... I added 3 inches the body and the sleeves.

The Buttons and Buttonholes
I couldn't for the life of me find buttons that "did it for me". I did my usual and just covered them. All of the high-end RTW jackets I saw had bound buttonholes and of course mine would have them too. I used regular machine buttonholes on the facing. I also decided to use a button to hold the lapel down (just a design feature), since I'll never fastened it up to the neck. I reinforced the shank buttons on the facing side with the 1/2" flat buttons by stitching through both buttons.

The Undercollar and Center Back Seam
The undercollar is traditionally cut on the bias in two pieces with a center back seam. This is essential to make the collar roll softly around your neck. This pattern has a full pattern piece. I folded the pattern piece in half and creased it at the center back. I opened it out and added a cutting line 5/8" from the crease. I cut along the line to create a new undercollar pattern and added a bias grain arrow so I would remember to cut it that way.

The instructions suggested that center back seam of the jacket is pressed to one side and topstitched 3/8" from the seam. I didn't like that at all... it lacked symmetry. I pressed the seam allowance open and created a welt seam which is a regular seam pressed open and topstitched from the right side on both sides of the seam.

All of the hems are 1 1/4" wide and interfaced. An interfaced hem adds weight and improves the way a garment hangs. Also, at the mitered corners, I inserted a penny into each one for additional weight so that the corners would hang correctly.

Even with the minor changes I made, I think it still looks like the pattern envelope.

Safari Jackets for the Urban Jungle this Spring!

Another hot must have this Spring is the Safari Jacket! It's a fun and fresh way to revitalize a classic and kick up khaki, which is a great base color.

How to make it new?
Take out the boxiness and leave the gun belts in the Serengeti!

What to wear them with?
Stella McCartney pairs them with colorful, floral skirts. Versace shows the jacket itself in white. Michael Kors naturally pairs them with white. I would put them with a white jean or trousers made in cotton twill or linen. Belt them! Accesorize with metallic, wooden or leather jewelry. Wear them with espadrilles or fabulous wooden platform sandals!



What pattern to use?












Vogue 8208

My Spring 2008 Palette!

Croissant
PANTONE® 16-0924
CMYK 15 23 50 5
GOE 145-2-1

Freesia
PANTONE® 14-0852
CMYK 0 14 100 0
GOE 6 -1-2

Cantaloupe
PANTONE® 15-1239
CMYK 0 37 48 0
GOE 15 -1- 3

Daiquiri Green
PANTONE® 12-0435
CMYK 23 1 60 0
GOE 135-2-1

Snorkel Blue
PANTONE® 19-4049
CMYK 100 49 7 13
GOE 81-1- 5

Silver Gray
PANTONE® 14-0000
CMYK 38 28 32 2
GOE 157-1-1

Croissant will be my base color (like black was last Summer). I am loving warm, cheerful Freesia! It's an uplifting and inviting color to which people are instinctively drawn. It is also a color that allows for diverse accessorizing opportunities in handbags and shoes. Against neutrals, luscious Cantaloupe is warm and nurturing - a great addition to any wardrobe, especially when paired with chocolate browns. Daiquiri Green is revitalizing and vibrant Snorkel Blue, is as dependable as navy, but with more animation and sophistication. Glitzy Silver Gray has a sheen reminiscent of the popular metallics of this past Fall that add a touch of excitement to any outfit. Also, expect to see black, white and chocolate in my palette. No matter what colors are trés chic, those will always be present!

Biker Jackets for Spring!

Lucky, March 2008

Vogue 2973

Denim Diva Biker Babe Jacket

Even before I picked up the March issue of Lucky, this jacket was on my list. Just so happens I have the perfect piece of fabric - white denim in my stash.

You don’t need to be a Harley-rider to rock a biker jacket. The notched collar and two-way zip front gives this modernized biker jacket some vintage flair. Pair it with your favorite pair of boot-cut jeans or even a skinny black pencil skirt, and you’ll be trendily styled for spring.

Getting waisted and the Seventies

Even though we are under a Winter Storm Advisory with the threat of snow (that's a big deal here in the Deep South), my mind couldn't be any more on Spring fashion than it is right now. Spring/Summer 2008 fashions are a throw-back to the 70s. There will be bright, bold colors; Disco (have you seen the Versace ad campaign?); hippie; tribal dressing (check out Oscar de la Renta); maxi dresses (I didn't get around to making one last season) and high-waisted pants.

This trend may not be for everyone, but it's sticking around for a minute. Personally, I love them. It's refreshing to be able to bend over without giving everyone in viewing distance a "half moon". In all honesty, most really aren't that high... most hit below the belly button.

Here are two patterns that I'll be trying out:

Vogue 1035

McCall's 5592

Simplicity 3799 - Psychedelic Shift!

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3799 (modified)
Fabric: rayon/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Things
Lining: polyester interlock

This dress is my "anti-black & white" project! I was in dire need of some color in my life and I had this fabric in my stash just waiting for the perfect project. I love this fabric... it's very retro and Pucci-esque and it deserved a retro-style project. I had seen versions of this dress made by Narcissaqtipie and Stacy and decided I wanted one too. What really sent me over the edge were these dresses:

Sandy Lomax (wire image)

Diane von Furstenberg (Nordstrom) and I.N.C. (Macy's)

Modifications:

I cut this dress out in a size medium and gradually came out to a large through the hip. I shortened it by 4 1/2" so that I could add the hem band. I drafted the hem band and made it around 4 1/2" wide and added it to the bottom of the dress. I also lined the dress with a white polyester interlock because the fabric is very clingy. Plus, since this dress has a "racer-back" style, I didn't want to bother with trying to find an appropriate slip.

Simplicity 3744 - Black & White Shift Dress

The palette for Spring/Summer 2007 is black and white, or more important -- black and white prints.

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 3744, View A

Fabric:

Fashion Fabric: cotton pique (100% cotton)

Lining: batiste (100% cotton)

Notions: 20" invisible zipper; eye and hook; two 1" buttons; lace hem tape

Description: This is really a simple shift dress with princess seaming and darted bodice to add shape and styled with a boat neck and two front pockets. It is semi-fitted at the bust and easy-fitting through the hip.

This is a Threads Collection pattern that has separate patterns for B,C, and D cups, which make fittings a lot simpler since no FBA was required. This dress is constructed with princess seams that I serged and pressed flat. The only thing unique about this construction (to me) was the pocket. The dress does have neck and armhole facings. To prevent rolling, I understitched them and handstitched them down to the shoulder seam allowances. I cut the pattern in a size 14, I did slightly nip in the waist to prevent the dress from being too "tent-like". At 1" below the waist, I gradually brought the skirt portion out to a size 16 for more of an a-line effect.

I added a lining to the dress because I would just feel naked without one. LOL

I handstitched the lining to the to the facings and the zipper tape.

I serged and machine stitched the lace to the hem of the dress and handstitched the hem.

The back tab which was a great detail to this dress was applied by sewing the buttons to the dress and buttonholes on the tab and fastening it on. To pull the dress off and on, you just undo onside.

All in all, this was a very simple pattern. I just lengthen the process by doing extra things which were a personal preference.

Vogue 8365 - The Cuffed Shorts

Alice + Olivia Gathered Top, $165 & Metallic Shorts, $198; Mint Printed Silk Tank, $250 & Cuffed Shorts, $270.

S.W.A.P. Preview

Top, Hot Patterns 107

I also liked the shorts with the t-shirt.

Top, Simplicity 4076

Project Details Pattern: Vogue 8365, View A
Fabric: Linen (linen/polyester blend)
Notions: 7" Zipper, Two Hook and Eye Closures, One ¹/2" Snap

Description: Shorts with shaped waistband, slanted side front pockets, mock fly and cuffs.

What is Summer with shorts? Unheard of in this neck of the woods when the mercury rises to 100 degrees. Last year, I make a couple of pairs of bermuda shorts and I decided to go a little shorter... not Daisy Dukes, just a little more skin. I choose this particular view because I know that pleats look horrible on me and no matter what I do, they would never lie flat. If you've made pants before, then this is an easy pair to make even though I had to make several adjustments. I lengthened the rise which made mine 10" in the front and 13" in the back... y'all know how I feel about being able to bend over without showing all your business. I also made a full hip adjustment by cutting the waistband and the top of the shorts in a size 16 and at the fullest part of my hip, I came out to a size 18. I always sew my darts right before I put the waistband on. I try on at this point so that I can accurately tell how much they need to be taken in. I then adjusted the waistband accordingly. By doing this, it prevented them from gaping at the back waistband. I wore them today and the test is walking and getting in and out of the car. I'm happy to say that there was no riding up and no smiling crotch! LOL

S.W.A.P. Changes!

I'll probably be changing pieces out until I make my last garment! LOL

M5395 is out!


M5329, the Nanette Lepore knockoff is in!

I'm back!

I haven't blogged in like a week... some times you just get caught up in life and need a break or one is demanded of you. I did manage to get some well deserved rest and relaxation poolside. I've also been sewing, working on my S.W.A.P.... cutting out out and making muslins. I actually have finished two pieces... as soon as I get photos, I'll show you. During my brief hiatus, here are some things I wanted to share.

I've got the blues!

Cobalt blues that is! I've been seeing this electrifying color everywhere.

Camoflaging a belly

If you're like me, I have pretty decent arms and legs but I have a pooch. After three babies, I've made peace with the fact that I'll never have six-pack abs without medical intervention and I'm cool with that. But, there are ways to still be cute and trendy and conceal your flaw.

1. The first look is a belted jacket cinched at the natural waistline.
2. The second is a busy print babydoll top made in a flowy fabric.
3. The third is a boxy jacket layered over a drapey blouse.
   

- Lucky Magazine, June 2007, page 98

BTW, more learn to sewing posts to come!

Spring Trends: The Crochet Dress

Temperley London Crochet Dress, Net-A-Porter.com - $1,106

Giuliana Testino Genovesa Crochet Dress, Net-A-Porter.com - $600

Diane von Furstenberg Livinia Crochet Dress,