Thinking of a Tulle Skirt

Lets see... it all started with this!  I saw this photoshoot of singer, songwriter Kelis (you know, her milkshake brought all the boys to the yard) on The Coveteur.  Seriously, how fabulous is this fuchsia tulle ball-length skirt?  She's stunning in this!

You guys know I love "dressy".  But, I've never done "whimiscal"!  Where would Erica B. wear a tulle skirt?  How would I fit this look into my wardrobe?  So I obviously took to Pinterest to research!

Here are some of my favorite looks:

And let's not forget Carrie Bradshaw!

And the lovely people at Simplicity have provided the perfect pattern:  Simplicity 1427!

Maybe this spring, I'll get some frou frou in my life!  I think a shorter length would make a great day-to-night look!

What I'm Wearing | And then the cold weather returned!

And just when I thought it was safe to open the windows and doors, and enjoy the fresh air -- here comes Old Man Winter again!  Die you old fart, just die!

As much as I love this coat I made, I really didn't think I would get much wear out of it this season.  I would've gladly packed it away until this coming fall.  But it seems that I'll be putting it to a little more use this March.

And I realized a few days ago that I hadn't worn these pants in a while.  So I thought the camel and coral were a great match.  The bright coral pants keep the sweater and coat from being so -- sedate!  I love my classics, but I like to keep them plenty of fun!

Wearing:  coat: Simplicity 1759; pants: Vogue 1143; sweater: Gino Paoli - Made in Italy (Vintage - 1960s).

A Touch of Gold with a Slit!

When I ran across this gorgeous Italian Metallic Gold Abstract Cotton Print fabric at Mood Fabrics, I had to have it.  But typical me, I never stop and just buy a swatch.  Ain't nobody got time for that!  I pull the trigger on the purchase when I see something I like.  I'll make it work for something!

Maybe you guys haven't noticed, but I've been in a sewing funk lately.  Well, it started with a cold and cold meds and I felt like doing NOTHING!  I pretty much vegetated and flipped through all of the March issue magazines. The sewing room collected dust.  And our typical bipolar Southern weather didn't help the situation either.  One day it was 35 degrees, the next day it was 75.  Do I continue making cold weather clothes or do I start sewing for spring?  Well, regardless of the temperature, it is in fact March and almost spring.  So it's about time to pack away the woolens.  Now back to this fabric...  

I was looking for something to get me out of my sewing funk.  You know how it goes, you need that one simple, fulfilling project that gets the sewing juices flowing and what better project than a skirt!  

Sources 1, 2 and 3.

I've fallen in love with the front slit midi length pencil skirts that Michael Kors has done for Spring 2014.  I knew that I needed to make a skirt like that or my sewing world would just not be complete!  This fabric that I bought for a completely different project, fit the bill.  This is a crisp hand medium weight cotton that feels like a lightweight denim.  

I used Simplicity 2257 as my base pattern.  I used view A.  I omitted the kick pleat, belt and loops.  I added 3 inches to the length, created a french vent and drafted a lining (I used Bemberg rayon).  The fabric is 100% cotton, so I treated it like I would any natural fiber -- prewashed and dried on hot!  It sewed and ironed beautiful.

My shoes are from ShoeDazzle.com

Worn with my patent leather top, reviewed here!

DIY Red Neoprene Dress!

If someone had told me a few years ago that scuba suit fabric would be so popular in ready-to-wear fashion, I would have rolled my eyes out of my head.  Neoprene (which I had never even heard of before last year) wasn't a fabric that I would have considered for everyday wear, unless you participate in water sports.  But the fact is that neoprene does indeed make really cute garments, especially dresses.

Since the fabric is thick and form-fitting, neoprene dresses and skirts are flattering and may even eliminate the need for Spanx!  And since many of them are reversible like the one I picked from Mood Fabrics, it also gives you the option of color blocking and interesting fabric placements.

This fabric is double-faced: red nylon on one side and gray heathered cotton jersey on the other.  It cut beautifully with a new rotary cutter blade.  After doing a bit of research, I knew I would probably be better off using the largest needle I had -- which is a Schmetz 100/16 jeans/denim needle and my regular Gutermann Sew-All Polyester All Purpose Thread.  I used a 2.5mm stitch and a 3.5mm for topstitching.  This is a non-fraying fabric and the seams could have been left as is, but I prefer a finished look.  So I serged mine.

I frankenpatterned this look and here are the patterns I used:  for the bodice I used OOP McCall's 5753.  This is a pattern that I found in my pattern cabinet that I've had for about 5 or 6 years.  I can't believe this pattern is OOP because it should be considered a classic since it offers 3 bodices variations, 3 sleeves, a sleeveless option, straight skirt with or without pockets and instructions to create your own belt.  I feel like I rediscovered a jewel!  I'll be using this one often from now on.  For my bodice, I choose the v-neck and I added an inch to the waist.  My sleeve started out as a 3/4 length, but I shortened it to above the elbow... for my own comfort.  I cut my normal size 14.  But I found that it was still a large and I had to take it in at the side seams.

For the skirt, I used McCall's 6842.  I used a slightly shortened version of view B.  I graded from the 14 to the 16.  I could've just stuck with the 14 only.  I also had to take in the side seams.  This is my first time cutting this pattern, so I don't know if my sizing issues is the pattern or the fabric choice since it was designed for a woven... so proceed with caution.

When I sewed the bodice to the skirt, I basted my zipper so I could try it on and check whether the fit would need to be refined.  It did.  My bodice still seemed a bit too loose and there was also gaposis, so I ended up pulling it in more at the center back.  I also used an exposed zipper with the tape on the outside.

This fabric does NOT take heat well.  I fought with those seams with my gravity feed steam iron, a seam roll and a clapper.  They were only going to flatten so much.  I noticed on RTW garments that they looked pretty much like mine.

In conclusion, I'm a new convert to neoprene.  Sadly, it's a very difficult fabric to locate.  Luckily, I have another yard left!  I love discovering a great pattern in my collection that has gone unnoticed for years!  It will now be my goto bodice!  And this skirt pattern couldn't be anymore adorable!  View D will definitely become a full midi skirt for this spring and summer!

Review: Vogue 1387 | Transitional Basics!

I've been needing to fill in the blanks in my closet with classic "go-to" pieces for a while now.  And what better time than transitional wardrobe season with classic black and white.

I love white shirts and white blouses.  The more interesting, the better... a not-so basic "basic" you could say.  This Rebecca Taylor Vogue 1387 blouse is perfect.  It's great for layering under a jacket now and perfect on its own for the warmer months.   

 I chose this beautiful Carolina Herrera single-ply silk crepe  from Mood Fabrics because it reminded me of the original designer garment.  And what a great choice this was!

 

This fabric was so easy to work with, that I forgot it was silk!  I pre-washed it in hot water and machine dried it on full blast heat.  And pressed it afterwards.  There was minimal shrinkage.  It cut perfectly and remained on the grain.  With the exception of my normal one inch lengthening at the waist, this pattern was practically sewn straight out of the envelope.  

I used French seams of course, and a narrow hem.  The way the yoke is sewn, I had to do some hand stitching there.  And the center front is tacked down.  And an interesting design element is the underarm insets.  This one is a winner.  I would love to have this fabric in several more colors, just so I could make this blouse again. 

For the pants, I used Simplicity 1887, that I had previously used.  I picked this beautiful medium weight black wool crepe from Mood Fabrics that's perfect for wearing in the springtime.  I wanted a pair of pleated, black, slouchy pants that had a semi-tailored, but casual feel.  Like I can dress these up if I need to!   The only additional changes I made this time was to add about an inch or so to the length so that they would "pool" at the ankle.  And I tapered the leg down to a 13" opening.  If you would've told me a few years ago that I would be going gaga over a pair of pleated, tapered leg pants -- I would've thought you to be touched in the head! LOL  This fabric sewed like a dream.  I could see this wool crepe being used to make all sorts of wardrobe staples not only for trousers, but for a sheath dress, a blazer and a pencil skirt.

Worn with my McCall's 5766 houndstooth coat.

So if you're choosing to make basic garments, choose beautiful fabrics and allow them to be the stars!

Review: Vogue 1384 | Shades of Grey Silk Georgette Dress!

This is Vogue 1384 - Donna Karan Collection.  Even though in reality this is simply a "wrap dress", it was something that stood out about this design:  bias-cut and self-lined.  Now, doesn't that just sound interesting? Well, it does to me!

I used a heavyweight silk georgette from Mood Fabrics for this project.  The pattern pieces are cut on the true bias, on a single layer.  I used 100% silk thread; a Microtex 70/10 needle and a 2.0 mm stitch length. 

Now, this pattern is rated "Average" by Vogue Patterns.  I would rate it "Advanced", due to the tricky fabric recommendations (i.e. georgette, crepe de chine and charmeuse).  These fabrics aren't exactly newbie user-friendly.  This is not to say a newbie couldn't handle them.  But they would take a lot more manipulation than cutting a regular woven fabric.

I cut the 16 and graded out to the 18 at the hips.  I went up a size (I would normally cut a 14 and grade to a 16) because this dress is made of silk.  I didn't want to have "drag lines" and I didn't want to cause pulling at the seams.  I added an inch at the waist and lengthened the rest by 2".  

As many of you already know that when you sew anything cut on the bias, you have to allow it to have for 24 hours before hemming.  And even after that, I still feel like this dress may be "growing".

For closures, this dress uses two 5/8" snaps.  I covered mine with fabric and here's how:

• Using lightweight fabric, cut circles twice the diameter of the snaps -- for both the male and female sides.
• Sew a row of running stitches close to the edge of the circle.  But DON'T cut your thread!  
• Punch a small hole in the center of the circle.
• Work the ball of the snap through the hole.
• Pull the thread to close the circle around the snap.
• And sew on to your garment.
• Repeat these steps for the other side of the snap.

Being that this dress is "self-lined", I left my seams unfinished.  With the exception of the sleeves and the armholes.  I used my serger.  I had ever intention of using French seams, but I was watching a movie and mindlessly sewing and I forgot!  But nevertheless, the serged seams worked out fine.

Note:  I also added a tiny snap at the center front.  There is no way this dress is going to stay in place without one.  And I really hate when people add pins!

This fabric which feels great inside and out is extremely luxurious.  Not one that you would want to have to apply the seam ripper.  And also, make sure you have to hang nails.  It pulls very easily.  So make sure if you work with this type of fabric, that you don't snag it!

Being that this is a wrap dress, I may or may not make this one again.  What I do love most about this is that unlike many other patterns for wrap dress and there are plenty, this one is designed for a luxurious woven fabric.  I could really see this one lengthened into a gown for a special occasion dress.

What I'm Wearing | Bundle Up By Adding a Fur Collar!

Adding a fur collar to your coat is a great way to upcycle, refashion or give your coat a different temporary look.  And it's a great way to bundle up and be fashionable on cold, windy days.

I've added this collar to a couple of my other coats in the past.  See here and here.

If you're interested in DIY tutorials, here is one from Coletterie  and one from Look TV. 

Now, to start prepping for some weekend sewing!

What I'm Wearing | Camel + Denim!

Today, I decided to pair my coat with denim.  It's such a great way to under-dress this coat.  I'd been seeing a lot of bloggers and street style on Pinterest, so I put together my own look.

Inspired by Pinterest!

Images via Pinterest

I'm going to get so much wear out of this coat because it's just that versatile.  And unlike a dress or a top, I can wear this everyday... well at least until it warms here!  Which is a great segue into today's discussion, a new addition to my "Love the Clothes I Make" series.  Most of you have been following me long enough to know that I have a pretty good sense of who I am style-wise.  I've gone through transformations in the almost decade I've been blogging.  Which means, over the years I've learned the benefit of sewing things that I'm going to wear all of the time and return to season after season -- hence this coat!  

 Most of you have been following me long enough to know that I have a pretty good sense of who I am style-wise.  I've gone through transformations in the almost decade I've been blogging.  Which means, over the years I've learned the benefit of sewing things that I'm going to wear all of the time and return to season after season -- hence this coat!

So, my question to is:  What do you sew?  Is it for entertainment purposes only?  Are you a "weekend seamstress" that just enjoys sewing a cute piece or two for the satisfaction of just sewing?  Or are you in it to win it -- like those of us that are serious about wardrobe building and always ready to learn a new technique and add more skills to your sewing repertoire?

Review: Simplicity 1759 | A Classic Camel's Hair Coat!

Every year, I like to make at least one substantial coat.  Last year, it was my beloved cashmere pea coat.  So this year, I decided it would be a classic camel's hair coat.  I wanted a coat that I would love and cherish for years to come... nothing trendy at all for this project.  Just timeless elegance.

I picked Simplicity 1759 for my pattern.  This pattern is great because you can choose either a single or double-breasted style; choose notched or stand collars or just collarless.  It has patch or welt pockets and back belt variations.  And most importantly, a two-piece sleeve.

I picked this beautiful camel-colored 100% camel's hair fabric.  It's described as "a heavy weight camel wool with a long brushed nap. Very soft, slightly spongy."  This is a napped fabric with a raised pile.  Which means it's best to layout your pattern and cut (on a single layer) with the nap running down the garment.  It'll wear better and pill less.  With ALL pieces going in the same direction.  Also, since this fabric is thick, I used a 100/16 needle and a 3 mm stitch length.   And I pressed the fabric on the wrong side using a fluffy terrycloth towel underneath.  This is my first time sewing with camel's hair, so it was all experimental.

I cut the size 14 and graded out to the 16.  I added 3 inches to the length.  And 1 inch to the sleeves.  I made a 1 inch FBA. I followed the instructions for interfacing.  But I padstitched the collar and taped my roll lines on my lapels.  I also interfaced my hems.

I also added a back stay (didn't photograph it, but you can check out previous ones here) and custom made shoulder pads.  

Made these using polyester fleece and a layer of muslin.

My goal is to always sew a set-in sleeve perfectly on the first try.  Here is my tried and true method:

I used two 2" x 12" bias cut strips of hair canvas.  I marked the center of each strip and pinned to the wrong side at the top of the sleeve cap with the raw edges matching.  Beginning at the center where the pin is, I stitched the bias strip to the sleeve cap using 1/2" seam allowance while fully stretching the bias strip... ending at the notch.  Then I repeated on the other side.  Note:  if your machine doesn't have a seam allowance guide on both sides, you can use a piece of tape.  Then your sleeve is ready to be pinned into the garment and sewn.  The bias strips also act as sleeve heads!

I used a silk charmeuse from my stash.  And I bagged my lining.  

I used Gutermann Top Stitching Heavy Duty Thread for top stitching, buttonholes...

And buttons.

Since some of you are often curious as to where I wear things, on Monday I attended a Spring 2014 Fashion Preview at Belk.  I'm with Arlene Goldstein, VP of Trend Merchandising and Fashion Direction.  I'll be blogging more about the fabulous trends to look forward to later!  Notice how leather was trending!  I got to wear one of my new favorites, my Vogue 1251 lambskin leather and wool crepe dress!

In conclusion, the idea that I created a coat that is similar to coats produced by designers such as Max Mara, makes me very happy.  Coat making is really easy, but there are just a lot of time consuming steps.  You have to (with experience) teach yourself how much tailoring and/or shortcuts you want to apply to your constructions techniques.  And most importantly, that timeless beautiful fabric is really what makes a great coat, so choose wisely!