Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe

Review: McCall's 7750

9:00 PM

Butterick 5710 - That Fabulous Alexander McQueen Dress!

8:00 PM

With all of the royal wedding hoopla, I was reminded of Pippa Middleton's fabulous bridesmaid dress. But, since I didn't have a need for a gown, I decided I would go with the short version.

I've had these pictures of the Alexander McQueen Cowl-neck Silk Crepe Dress saved for years. It's one of those patterns that I've kept on my to-sew list, and I'm finally knocking it off of my list.

I used Butterick 5710. I had to make a change to the pattern to get to my inspiration dress. Even though I've had this pattern since it was first released, I'd never looked at the instructions. Even though the illustration on the front of the envelope and the technical line drawing gave the impression that the short version of the dress is a sheath dress... wrong! So very wrong! It was meant to be cut on the bias. That would've cause the hem of the dress to flounce out. And that is not what I wanted!

I cut the front bodice and drape in a size 14. I cut the front skirt in a size 16. And I cut the back in a size 16.

For the back, I straightened the side seams and the center back edge. I lengthened by 5 inches, because this is drafted pretty short. And I added a walking vent. For the front skirt, I added 5 inches and straightened the side seams. I cut the bodice and drape on the bias as directed. But, if I were to make this again, I would cut the bodice on the straight grain. My fabric is stretchy enough as is, and I feel that it's not as stable as I would like. I cut the back and the front skirt also on the straight grain.

The bodice is low-cut. But not too low to wear with a regular bra. But, if you're making this and it's too low for your level of comfort, you can alter the pattern. This dress was drafted for 1/2" raglan shoulder pads. If you don't like shoulder pads, you can't just opt out. You'll have to remove the ease from the shoulders.

My fabric is a beautiful raspberry polyester crepe with stretch that I showed in my last fabric haul video, that I bought from Fine Fabrics in Atlanta. My lining is a stretch poly lining that I picked up from Jo-Ann. Even though this pattern only has 6 pattern pieces, this is a pretty fiddly dress to sew. And I added to the level of difficulty by adding a vent. But, it was a labor of love, because I really wanted my inspiration dress and I wasn't going to settle for anything less!

Interesting Looks From Churchill Downs

9:30 AM

You don’t have to be a major fan of horse racing to appreciate that the major events tend to double as extravagant fashion shows. The horses remain the main attraction, but it’s become a tradition both in the U.S. and abroad for attendees (and usually the women in particular) to show off some bold, bright fashions. Indeed, to give you an idea, the Kentucky Derby’s own website posted a “what to wear” guide ahead of this year’s race! Any way you look at it, at most any major race, fashion is part of the show.

Granted, horse racing fashion can take on a somewhat costume-like look as well. The name of the game is to stand out as much as it is to look your best, but ultimately this makes things more fun and festive than most other events for which people dress up. Additionally, a race like the Kentucky Derby at Churchill Downs possesses a prestige factor that extends beyond the tracks and elevates the spectators, in a way. A preview of the recent race put things in perspective rather nicely in this regard, stating that of 20,000 thoroughbreds born every year only 20 earn the honor to run this race. It truly does represent the peak, not just of racing but of horse culture. And because of this, even somewhat silly fashion can feel oddly extravagant or high-end when it’s seen at Churchill Downs.

Having said all of that, I wanted to take a look at last week’s action from a fashion perspective and point out a few of the most interesting looks from the 2018 Derby.

Extravagant Hats

We have to start with the most obvious fashion note, which is that the hats, as always, were extravagant, over-the-top, and wonderful. If there’s one element of Kentucky Derby fashion, and really horse racing fashion in general, that’s become representative of the culture, it’s the hats. At this year’s Derby we saw a massive purple hat half the size of the woman wearing it, surprisingly understated (by comparison) plumed hats, and others positively bursting with feathers, faux flowers, loops, coils, and just about everything else you can imagine. They’re not the sorts of hats you can incorporate into your everyday wardrobe, but they’re wonderful to look at is you’re a fashion lover (or a designer for that matter).

Off-The-Shoulder, Knee-Length Dresses

Celebrities set the tone at Churchill Downs just like they do most everywhere else, and in this regard it was hard not to take notice of figure skating great Tara Lipinski. Fresh off a return to the public eye after broadcasting the Winter Olympics, Lipinski showed up at the Derby in a perfectly fun navy-and-white knee-length dress with off-the-shoulder straps and a matching fascinatorget. The look was pointed out in a rundown of Derby fashion for the year, and was a nice reminder that summery styles can still embrace the spirit of the event.

Floral Patterns

It should come as no surprise that floral patterns were all the range surrounding the tracks. This is something we see less of at the major European races that happen a little earlier in the year (such as the Cheltenham Festival, which has a whole day devoted to fashion). But in the U.S., with the Derby being held at the height of the spring season, floral patterns are almost always embraced. For that matter a lot of the hats we saw also embraced vaguely floral designs.

A Color Range

The Kentucky Derby is always a brightly colored event, so it should go without saying that there will be a range of colors on display. Typically however, especially due to the aforementioned scheduling during the spring season, those colors are bold and warm and embrace the time of year. We saw plenty of that at this year’s Derby, but there also seemed to be more of a focus on more neutral colors mixed in. I noted navy with regard to Tara Lipinski’s outfit, and she wasn’t the only one. We also saw lots of cream and off-white colors, some muted gold, and even a good deal of black.

Bow Ties For Men

As a quick note on men’s fashion, we also saw a noteworthy focus on bow ties. This is not exactly unusual for an event like this that adds a playful, southern flavor to its fashion vibe, but if anything there seemed to be more than usual this time around!

Bold Colors

Review: Vogue 9321 - Tie-Back Jumpsuit!

12:00 PM

cropped top

Shades of Blue!

1:30 PM

You ever see cute pieces online and save them to your Pinterest and then make the decisions that you're going to actually create your own version? Oh... just me? LOL I pin so many things almost daily. But ever so often, there are the ones that just grab my attention. They aren't always the most elaborate, but things that I find that are interesting and wearable.

Take these two garments. These are cute little wardrobe basics, but with trendy little details that make them fresh for the season.

In order to capture to the essence of the Sonia Rykiel top, I decided to use Simplicity 8609, view C.

With this pattern, I was more than halfway to my inspiration garment. All I needed to do was make minor modifications.

My sweater knit is from Joann's. I cut the size 14. The main change is the sleeves. I used the sleeves from view A because of the length. Where the pattern would have you leave a slit, I finished the entire sleeve head and the armholes of the bodice.

And attached the sleeve to the bodice using silver glass beads (from Joanns). I also lengthened the bodice by adding a band. I wanted my top to sit at the top of pants that aren't designed to be high-waist.

And here is a close up my neck line finish. For this project, I used my walking foot. I find that's the easiest way to keep sweater knits from stretching.

The pants are my 3rd version of McCall's 7726 (I made a pair for Mikaela too). My fabric is this amazing Italian Navy Pin Striped Blended Linen Woven from Mood Fabric.com. This time I made view B.

I cut the same size and made the same exact modifications as I did for my shorts. But, being that these have a slimmer, tapered leg, the fit is completely different.

Here is my pattern alteration: A full-butt adjustment of one inch and I lengthened the crotch on both the back and the front by ½ an inch. And they still felt a little snug through the thighs. If my fabric had been a stretch woven, it wouldn't have made a difference. But since this fabric has no give, I notice every bit of the fit.

They're still comfortable, but I was surprised at how different they are from the other view. Two different pants in one envelope.

Like with the previous pair, I interefaced the facings. I omitted all of the topstitching... you wouldn't be able to see it anyway. I added the belt loops to this pair.