I knew when I saw this pattern that this would be one I'd be making. I'm such a fan of Rachel Comey's "Uptown Girl Style", so Vogue 1645 was a no brainer for me.

This pattern with it's unusual design is not the easiest for altering. I normally don't make a muslin, but my mind lead me to do one for this. And I'm so glad I did. My normal alterations for a jumpsuit is to do a FBA, swayback, full seat, lengthen the rise and the hem length. My brain didn't want configure a FBA on this because that would've consisted in re-drafting the fronts, because the bodice and the pants are a single pattern piece. 

I just cut the straight 16, made a one inch swayback adjustment, lengthened the rise by one inch, made a 1.5" full seat adjustment and added 3" to the hem length.

My fabric is a Navy Peachskin from Mood Fabrics.com. I've worked with this fabric before and I love the texture and how easy it wears. It doesn't have a lick of stretch, so you can't really skimp on the fitting in hopes that the give of the fabric will rescue you. It cuts and sews beautifully. But you do have to watch the temperature of your iron and use a pressing cloth.

Even though I'm all for a beautiful interior, there was just no way I was going to Hong Kong finish the entire inside of a jumpsuit. If this were a jacket, I could see it, but not on a jumpsuit. My serger worked perfectly fine. And if you're wondering how a jumpsuit like this stays together, it has an invisible zipper on the inside.

And it's held closed with a belt on the outside. I used a Maxant Rectangular Buckle Kit 1.5" from Mood Fabrics.com for the buckle. 

I absolutely love this jumpsuit and I can't wait to layer it over a top for cooler weather!

As I was preparing to revisit this oldie, but goodie, I decided that since this is basically a plain t-shirt with a fancy sleeve detail that it would be a great opportunity to add an embroidered detail. I'm still learning all of the things that my beautiful Baby Lock Aventura II can do and I'm completely fascinated and obsessed with embroidery.

While planning my top, I had to decide on an appropriate embroidery design. Because when it comes to knits, all embroidery is not created equal. Even though I'm always drawn to the big beautiful colorful designs, a lot of them are way too dense with a high thread count for a knit fabric. So I picked a light and open design that looks almost like a sketch with a single color. I chose this Flower design. And I used a cut away mesh stabilizer.

I'm planning a lot more embroidery projects. I'm pretty much hooked on it now.

When I saw the pattern and the possibility to create such a dead on replica of the jacket, I was stoked. And I immediately started to collect my supplies.

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For my jacket, I took inspiration from the three of these gorgeous Gucci jackets to create my own version.

My fabric is Tomato Red Sportswear Stretch Poly Rayon Spandex Twill from Joann. It's the same fabric that I used for my pink suit. The front bands and the pocket bands are Italian Black Suiting from Mood Fabrics.com. The gold metal buttons are also from Mood. The ribbon trim is Offray 3/8" White Grosgrain Ribbon and Black 5/8" Grosgrain Ribbon.

I cut the size 14, grading out to 16 for the hip. And I added one inch of length. I made a one inch swayback adjust.

I wanted to capture the essence of the crest insignia on the original jacket, so I just added an embroidered monogram using my Baby Lock Aventura II.

I felt like the the trim should be followed up around the jacket's sleeve vents. I added the grosgrain ribbons with a mitered corner.

My lining is a silky print from Joann. The instructions on the pattern suggested lots of hand sewing. I bagged my lining and machine sewed it with very little hand sewing.

I did that by leaving an opening in the center back of the lining and after I was done, I just slipped stitched it closed. So much easier than hemming by by hand.

And I love cute little details, so I added a hanging loop.

I paired my jacket with McCall's 7098. They're currently out of print, but I made this pattern originally back in 2016, and I really didn't like the quality of the fabric. And earlier this year, I made them again in a beautiful black wool stretch suiting.

One of my all-time favorite looks for fall is a monochromatic black outfit. And who doesn't love an all black 'fit? The summer was filled with so many bright hues, so it's almost soothing to calm things down a bit. A lot of people think all black outfits are boring. The best way to make your outfit interesting is my pairing different fabrics. It keeps the outfit interesting by adding texture like I did here: a matte and a glossy.

My top is McCall's 7978. It's a corset waist style button front top. This style is very popular this season. I've been seeing these tops everywhere in all price ranges, from high-end to the junior department:

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My fabric is Italian Cotton Shirting from Mood Fabrics.com. This is a different take on a button front shirt. And I like that it's different from anything I own. I like the interfaced corset waist. It gives you that "snatched" look and I'm glad that my shirting fabric has lycra. It makes the top comfortable to wear and it doesn't restrict any movement or breathing! I used my favorite knit interfacing that matches the give of the fabric.

I needed to lengthen the midriff by one inch.

Which caused me to need 5 rouleau loops and 5 buttons instead of 4.

I made a full bust adjustment by slashing and spreading. I didn't want to have to worry about creating a dart. I just needed more room in the area for the gathers.

The back has a yoke with a yoke facing and a gathered back.

I love this top with the corset waist and the cute peplum detail. I pairs great with my faux leather Simplicity 8749 pants.

Once I learned that you can actually sew your own jeans at home, I've been a big fan. They've become one of my favorite things to sew. I find all of the topstitching completely satiating.

My history with jeans has been that I can never walk into a store and find jeans that are long enough.  I was wearing ankle grazing jeans before cropped length was fashionable. We referred to it as "Your pants are in the flood" back in the day. The long sizes aren't sold in brick and mortar locations. And after having to try on several pairs to get a decent fit, it was always a gamble when order that long length size online. And then there's the back. You either had smushed butt or gaping at the waistband in order to get a pair that actually fitted in the hips. I was a pro at adding darts to curve in the waistband.

In the last year, I've made 3 pairs of jeans. And every time I post, I get a several messages suggesting that I do a tutorial because I make it look easy. So, I figured it was time I share how I make sewing my own jeans at home work for me.

Other than selecting the correct size and making the appropriate alterations -- which varies on the fabric; I'm up to 4 pairs and they all have a unique fit... most people that struggle with making jeans, struggle with the topstitching. 

So, in this tutorial, you will get:

You can get it here:

Learn to Sew Your Own Jeans -- A Step-by-Step Video Tutorial

I found this Silky Solid Textured Crepe in Mineral Yellow at Joann. 

I felt it would be perfect for McCall's 7974. This design is inspired by the Cult Gaia Willow Dress.

Sunny Hostin wore a version on "The View". I was happy to see a woman with a fuller bust line wearing this dress. At first, I'd written the dress off as one of those sternum-baring styles that would probably look best on someone with a flatter chest. Even though Sunny closed her dress up for morning tv, I could still see myself in it.

I'm comfortable with cleavage, but I knew that for an optimal fit, I'd need to make a full bust adjustment.

I cut the bodice in a size 14, grading to a 16. I made a 1" FBA. And the bodice is still bra-friendly with a low-cut front closure bra.

The length of the bodice was fine, so there was no need for a modification. I really love the sleeve design. I've never constructed a sleeve this way before and I may add it to a shirt.

I normally am not a fan waist gathering. But with the nice cinching fit of the midriff section, there's not a lot of excess volume and the dress is really flattering.

I cut the view C midi length and finished it with a narrow hem. This dress is super comfortable and I hope I get around to making this one again in another color.