Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe

Review: Simplicity 8426 | The White Jumpsuit!

9:15 AM

So, I've added a new jumpsuit to my arsenal! This time, it's Simplicity 8426. Mimi mailed me this fabulous new pattern before they hit the stores and I knew I wanted to make it in white. I haven't had a solid white jumpsuit in years and I knew it was time.

For weeks, I'd been searching for the PERFECT bottom weight white crepe fabric. And this time, I found the perfect one. This White Polyester Crepe from Mood Fabrics.com is every single thing! It's not creamy like some white fabrics. It's pure white... "White Party" white! And it's thick enough for pants. Polyester has always gotten a bad rap. But throughout the years, polys have improved significantly, so you shouldn't sleep on them. This one is extremely high-end and looks like the type you see in luxury brand clothing. Take my word for this, because I'm not one to walk around looking "cheap".

For the jumpsuit, I cut the size 14. I lengthened the bodice by an inch. And I lengthened the pants by 2 inches. I was surprised at how long these pants are drafted. I usually have to add 4-5 inches to pants patterns to wear with heels.

I absolutely love this bodice and I knew this style would work for me, because I've used it before:

White Scalloped Dress

The bodice is lined. I self-lined mine. The lining is machine stitched to the zipper tape and slipstitched at the waist.

And it's underlined to keep everything in place.

Experience has taught me over the years that when I'm dealing with a fitted bodice and a "snatched" waist seam, it's best to NOT use an invisible zipper. I've learned that lesson the hard way. There's nothing like arriving to an event and as I began to exit the car, that cool breeze hits my back!

So yeah... I rock with metal zippers! Especially since this fabric has no stretch... it's 100% woven. And at the top of the zip, I added a hook & eye. Just for extra security to keep the zipper from opening.

The pattern suggested a rouleau button loop. But I created a thread loop instead. Only because I'm partial to thread loops.

The pants are gathered at the waist. I pressed mine as flat as possible to reduce any bulk. The midriff/waistband piece which is initially attached to the bodice first, just kind of hangs free. I knew mine would roll and flip up so I fused it down with Stitch Witchery.

I had a conundrum with the pants. As much as I love pockets, I hate pocket show-thru in white pants. Sigh... But I added the pockets anyway.

I really felt as though I would miss them. Because my hands just naturally want to go there.

The pants are finished with a nice deep 2 inch hem. I don't think hem depth has been discussed enough. You need that wide, deep hem for wide-leg pants to hang correctly. But all in all, I love this jumpsuit and I can see myself making this one again.

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DIY Faux Suede Patch Pocket Shorts!

5:30 PM

So, I wanted a pair of khaki shorts. Khaki is such a basic wardrobe staple that will work with any other color. A classic neutral!

But what I didn't want is a pair of plain shorts made from chino twill fabric.

I was inspired by these Peserico Suede Shorts. They retailed for $500, but are currently on sale for $199. Talk about an "I can make that" moment!

So, to get started, I drafted the base style from a pair of RTW 5" shorts that I already owned. I know I'd only need to add the details. But drafting pants is not easy at all. I had a lot of kinks to work out. It took me a solid week to create these and I questioned why the hell did I even start with these stupid shorts multiple times. But I have to always see things through until the end.

The first iteration came out way too small. I think I forgot to calculate in the seam allowances. I was almost finished. I only needed to attach the waistband and hem them. But when I tried them on, they wouldn't go past my hips. I was absolutely crestfallen. I threw them in a corner and went to bed.

I got up the next day and started all the way over from scratch and they worked!

I added 2 darts to the front and 2 darts to the back. Like my inspiration shorts, I added patch pockets with flaps and edgestitched and topstitched them.

I also added inseam pockets.

For the back, I added faux welt pockets:

The reason I chose to use faux welt pockets is "pure laziness". I know I can make welt pockets and if you've been reading this blog, you know I can too! Those are a lot of steps and I had nothing to prove. And it's not like I'm going to stick my wallet in my back pocket!

I just really like the aesthetic of that classic menswear detail.

I'd planned on making the belt with the D-rings like my inspiration. But I ran short on this fabric. BTW, it's a faux suede that I picked up in Atlanta a few months ago from Fine Fabrics. So I just integrated the channel stitching detail into the waistband.

These shorts were a real treat to make, even if I wanted to burn them in the process. Sometimes I just feel the need to challenge myself!

Summer 2017

See It! Sew It! Style It! | Summer 2017

10:00 AM

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Review: McCall's 7591 | A Drapey White Dress!

12:30 PM

Here's my latest white dress. I truly have an affinity for them. It's a must-have for me for each spring/summer season. As you may have noticed, I don't have a go-to silhouette. My dresses differ in style, shape, fabric and occasion.

This time, I wanted something drapey, in a midi length that reminds me of 1970s Halston.

For my pattern, I went with McCall's 7591. I used view B, and I shortened it to a midi length. I cut the size 12 in bodice and graded to a 14 in the skirt.

My fabric is this stunning Ralph Lauren White Viscose Matte Jersey from Mood Fabrics.com. I very rarely work with slinky knits these days... they're just not my favorite. But I was drawn to this one. I initially had another project in mind when I ordered it, but when I received it, it was way too sheer.

To my own chagrin, I never swatch first. I recommend doing that to others, but I never take my own advice. So when I received the fabric, I felt instant disappointment because I'd ordered 4 yards of this practically translucent fabric that was never going to work for what I had in mind. But it worked perfectly for McCall's 7591.

I cut my fabric out with a rotary cutter as I pretty much do with all fabric. It gave this fabric clean edges. I used a ballpoint needle size 11/75 and had no trouble sewing this beautiful fabric. Being that this fabric is so sheer, this dress needed to be fully lined.

The pattern instructions recommended that the bodice is to be lined only. The bodice is joined to the skirt with a waist seam. The seam is used to create an elastic casing for 1/4″ elastic. And the shoulder straps' fit are finalized last and stitched to the inside of the bodice.

But I lined the skirt as well. It was a necessity.

I simply cut the same skirt piece out again in the same fabric and shortened it. I left the hem serged. This is how it looks on the inside.

Even though this fabric doesn't fray, I serged the seams. I knew that they would show through, and I wanted that clean finish.

I made sure in that the seam allowances in the bodice were scantily cut down. I wanted them to be as minuscule and neat as possible.

I absolutely love this dress. It’s perfect for summertime. I wore it out on a steamy, humid day and the fabric felt great. With this type of fabric, I suggest taking your time and stitching carefully and slow. This isn’t a fabric that would appreciate the use of a seam ripper. You would create runs in it. Good slow sewing will create a beautiful, expensive-looking garment!

Instead of going with some specialty, nude strapless bra, I decided to go with something that would show and look good showing.

I decided I wanted some kind of bralette. Lacy, showy bralettes are very "of-the-moment" and look great under almost everything. And I wanted one. This was a last minute decision and I didn't have time to order real bra making supplies, so I needed something I could run out to Joann's or Hobby Lobby and pick up.

I decided to use Mimi G's Simplicity 8392 sports bra pattern. I loved that it has elastic down the center front. This simple little detail keeps you from having "uniboob". This is a particular detail that I look for when buying sports bras.

I found this stretch lace in the active wear area at Joann's. And it was perfect. The pattern recommended creating binding, but I used fold over elastic instead. I'm questioning my entire life as to why I don't use it more often?!