Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe

Simplicity 8890 - Cropped Trench Jacket & Slip Dress!

12:00 AM

Simplicity 8890 - Erica Bunker DIY Style!

I love separates. And this is probably my first time, if not, then the pattern wasn't very memorable -- that I sewed more than one piece from an outfit/wardrobe type pattern. What I love about this pattern is, the pieces aren't matchy-matchy. They don't necessarily go together, but they definitely work. You get a super cute and sexy backless slip dress, topped with a cropped trench jacket. It feels like you're wearing a great dress and you reach for your favorite jacket on your way out the door.

Utility dressing is a big ass deal this spring. You can't go in any store or look on any retail site without seeing something with trench and cargo details or boiler suits. It's what's currently popping. So, when I saw Mimi's pattern - Simplicity 8890, I knew that I needed it. I'm someone who mostly prefers a jacket to a sweater as a topper, so this is kinda perfect and right up my alley.

For the cropped trench, I found the perfect fabric at Hobby Lobby. It's a Khaki Solid Twill that's 100% cotton. And it sews beautifully. I cut the size 16 and I added an inch to the length.

It has beautiful trench details like these great epaulets and wonderful edge stitching and top stitching.

I lined the underside of the flap with plaid Burberry-esque fabric.

And since the jacket is unlined, I did a Hong Kong finish.

I foresee lots and lots of wear out of this jacket.

Let's go ahead and get the elephant in the room question out of the way, so we can all move on in peace: I'm not wearing a bra, so no point in asking what kind. Do your own research and find options that work you. Y'all wear me out every single time I post something backless...

My fabric is bold, colorful and quite amazing. It's an Orange Abstract Ikat and Floral Stretch Polyester from Mood Fabrics.com. It's basically an ITY knit. The pattern recommends silky type wovens. But I'm always a rebel!

Change of fabric type didn't require any changes to the pattern. I made my normal lengthening alteration. I added 3 inches to the hem. The back is my favorite detail. It has adjustable straps.

To relieve some of the fullness and to add definition at the waist, I used the drawstrings from the back and tied them in front.

So, I'm going to enjoy rocking these two new pieces in my wardrobe this spring.

Athleisure

From Tennis to Athleisure: How Sport is Defining Fashion

12:00 PM

(image: Pexels)

Tennis has got to be one of the most fashion-forward sports around. Team jerseys usually don’t leave space for each athlete’s personality to shine through, but tennis allows players more freedom to dress as they please— within the rules of the federation, of course!
The outfits worn in tennis can be both modern and stylish, so much so that they can be worn off the court, too. If you remember, I previously posted Simplicity 1370 - tennis skort that was converted into regular daytime bottoms. It turned out to be a lovely addition to a dashing summer ensemble.

It’s not the first time that sports apparel has been used as casual wear. It’s actually an ongoing trend that goes by the term athleisure. Simply put, it’s the combination of athletic and leisure wear because they’re suitable for both occasions. You’ve probably seen many women in a sports bra and leggings combo outside of the gym, or the latest runners walking the aisles of a supermarket. That’s what you call athleisure.

(image: Glamour)

Fashion historian Deirdre Clemente notes that young Americans started showing up in sports apparel to casual meetings all the way back in the 19th century, way before brands like Lululemon rose to prominence. For a long time now, sports have had a profound influence on the way we dress and will continue to do so for many years to come. Sweatshirts, tracksuits, and lycra bodysuits aren’t just meant for the gym and exercise studios anymore. They can be used as casual clothing, and no one will bat an eye.

Fashion classics such as polo shirts were actually came to fruition in tennis. There’s really no single design for tennis outfits, which makes them more versatile than, say, football jerseys. That’s why it doesn’t come as a surprise when new street fashion trends are influenced by what’s worn on the court. In fact, Glamour reported that typical tennis garb such as polo dresses, A-line skirts, and halter dresses have inspired brands to create their own ranges. Tyler Haney, the CEO of clothing company Outdoor Voices, says that tennis apparel really stood out as more fashionable “on and off the court,” without sacrificing things like comfort and durability.

(image: Style Caster)

The magazine also mentions Serena Williams as one of the tennis icons who is noted for her fashion sense. A simple search online and you will be presented with an array of Serena Williams’ remarkable tennis outfits because there are just so many. A list by Style Caster includes an incredible get-up that's still fresh in everyone’s memories: the famous black catsuit that Williams wore to the 2018 French Open. It was something that was never really seen before in the sport, which made it a very memorable outfit to say the least, even if it received backlash from the French Tennis Federation for being too revealing.

But Williams is known for making bold choices whether it’s in terms of her fashion choices or in her attitude towards the sport she holds so dear. Her courageous mentality is really what cemented her status as an icon of the sport. In an article by Coral it highlights that the highest ever paid female tennis player has a total 23 Grand Slam titles to her name. On top of her earnings from tennis, Williams has partnerships with brands like Nike and has even started her very own fashion line. This means that you should expect to see some stunning, edgy tennis outfits hitting the high streets very soon, all inspired by Williams and her unique sense of style. As per the rules of athleisure, the clothes can be worn anywhere, even if you’re not a tennis player. So while they might be inspired by tennis, don’t expect her ranges to be restrained by the limitations of the tennis court.

Athleisure has proven that it is far from a fad – it’s a trend that’s here to stay. And some of the people we have to thank for its rise in popularity are the tennis icons who keep serving up aces on tennis’ grandest stages.

blazer

Pink Powered Spring!

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blazer

Suit Yourself in This Season's Power Blazer!

1:00 PM

Red Power Suit: Jacket - Style Arc McKenzie Blazer; Pants - Simplicity 8749 -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!

When I think of the "Power Suit", I immediately think of the 80's movie -- "Working Girl". This movie was released (1988) as I was graduating high school. So, I wasn't quite grown enough to really get into that style, and I completely missed it the first time around. Everything old is new again. And who knew that this strong, padded-shoulder, double-breasted silhouette would come back. I've always secretly hoped it would! While a lot of style experts thought the 80s look was horrid, I grew up watching "Dynasty" and I was sitting and just waiting! LOL

I began to notice the emergence of this trend last fall. Sure, the blazer has always been around. But it's usually the basic notched collar, single-breasted one-button style. These reimagined iterations are everywhere for spring/summer 2019 in pretty pastels. And even on the fall/winter 2019 runways in beautiful textured textiles and plaids and checks... so, it's not going anywhere anytime soon. It's having a major moment, and as much as I love a tailored jacket, I'm going to milk it for everything it's worth.

Trying to find a current double-breasted blazer pattern is damn near impossible. I searched high and low, only to find a couple of out-of-print vintage patterns on Etsy and eBay (that I bought). Then it occurred to me to see what the indies had to offer. I went over to The Fold Line for a search. And voila! I found something that would work.

Red Power Jacket - Style Arc McKenzie Blazer -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!

I picked the Style Arc McKenzie Blazer pattern. It wasn't quite what I was looking for. I really wanted a style that has princess seams that's tapered at the waist; a tailored back vent; surgeon's cuffs; peak lapels; and a breast pocket -- in a long length. Is all of that too much to ask for? Maybe it is. And maybe it's time I start producing patterns! It you want it, you need to create it. But nevertheless, I made this one work. And it was instantly available as a PDF download. And on the plus side, since it was meant to fit loosely, I sewed it without any alterations. So, that makes it a winner in my book.

Minerva Crafts reached out to me and offered a few yards of fabric for a project. And this couldn't be more timely. I selected the Lady McElroy Sydney 4 Way Stretch Plain Crepe Suiting Dress Fabric. It is 94% Polyester, which means when you arrive at your destination, you won't look all wrinkled and creased. And it's 6% Spandex. For fitted trousers, pencil skirts and body-conscious dresses, this is the most perfect crepe fabric that I've run across. I've found really good crepes in the past, but the color selections were nowhere nearly as vast as this offering. And it's heavy enough that lining your pants is not a requirement.

Since this is a dry-clean only suit, I didn't wash the fabric. However, I did pre-shrink it in the drying using the steam method. It's been my experience working with stretch wovens that they'll sometimes shrink during the construction when the heat and steam are applied during pressing. So, I didn't want to take any chances. For the construction, I used a stretch needle and I used a pressing cloth.

I used a Bemberg Rayon Lining and I love that the blazer is drafted with an all-in-one type of facing. It makes the inside look so good.

Custom Shoulder Pads Tutorial - Erica Bunker DIY Style!

This pattern calls for shoulder pads. I almost always make my own custom ones. Here is a quick tutorial that I created for Instagram.

My only regret is that I didn't stop and modify the back with a tailored vent. I didn't even think about it until I was sewing.

The drafting is wonderful. The instructions will probably not be of much use to you if you're a beginner and/or you've never made a jacket before, because there are no step-by-step pictures or illustrations if that's what you're accustomed to. But fear not! I have the perfect solution for that. This pattern plus my Tailored Jacket Tutorial is a perfect match.

Red Power Suit: Pants - Simplicity 8749 -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!

If you make a great jacket, why not a matching pair of pants? These are Simplicity 8749 and it's my second time making these.

These days, I'm leaning towards tapered pants. I get double duty out of them because with their ankle grazing length, I can wear any height heels.

So, y'all are going to need to bare with me. I'm going to be on a suit and jacket binge for a few months. Because this tailoring stuff is so addictive.

Bold Colors

McCall's 6279 - Trench Dress!

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tailoring

Six Tips for Mastering Tailored Womenswear!

8:30 PM

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It seems like everywhere you look, the trend of the moment is tailored womenswear. Pantsuits are back with a vengeance! However, trying to master the tailored womenswear trend isn’t always the easiest of tasks. You need to find the right way to rock this look for you. Here are some top tips to ensure you look as chic as can possibly be.

Look for inspiration

Whether you’re buying your clothes or sewing them yourself, it’s vital that you start scrolling for inspiration first. For example, when putting together my tailored jacket with double welt pockets, I had several images that I used as inspiration before I got started. This is the ultimate excuse to jump on Pinterest or spend a few hours flicking through magazines. Look at the styles and shapes, along with the patterns and colors. Make a mood board if you think it will help.

Make subtle swaps

Used to rocking a denim jacket in the spring? Simply swap it out for an oversized blazer. The best thing about the tailored womenswear trend is that you don’t have to go overboard. No one is saying you need to look like you’re about to go to work! Instead, swap out some of your usual pieces with something more tailored to create your own personal style – women’s jackets are perfect for this.

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All about the pants

To pull off the tailored look, it’s all about the pants. You can play around with different styles, shapes, and colors, to bring your whole look together. For example, a pair of black, wide-legged women's pants will match with pretty much anything else in your wardrobe. Tuck in a white tee and throw on that blazer to look as if you have just stepped off the catwalk. Alternatively, go bold with a bright yellow or red tailored pant.

Repurpose your shirts

Got some old work shirts lying around that you don’t wear anymore? Why not bring them back to life? You can cinch them in at the waist to make them more fitted (or try a peplum look), change up the color from white to pastel shades of pinks and yellows, or even sew on some accessories. This way, you can keep the majority of your outfit plain, and let your shirt do the talking.

Accessories are your friend

If you don’t want to play around too much with colors or patterns in the clothing items themselves, then you should consider adding something a little extra to your outfits using accessories. Keep your suit simple, with a plain white tee underneath, then go wild with layered necklaces or dangly earrings. It’s amazing how such little add-ons can elevate your tailored look.

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Consider your shoes

You’ll want to consider the shoes you’re going to rock with your new tailored outfits for more than one reason. Firstly, what kind of pant leg is going to look best with those shoes? Will a wide-leg swamp a dainty heel? Secondly, what about the color? If you’re a fan of fluoro shoes or bright colored heels, then perhaps you’ll want to keep the colors and patterns simple on the suit itself. Always consider your outfit as a whole before you start sewing (or shopping).

Tailored womenswear is making a big comeback, and it’s an exciting time for those who love making their own clothes and rocking the latest trends. Follow these tips to make sure you master both the sewing and the wearing of this iconic look.

Any other suggestions to add? Drop them in the comments.