D.I.Y. Style Tip: Turtlenecks and Sheath Dresses!

I love the look of a sheath dress, so timeless and elegant. During the cold weather months, you can change the look by pairing a turtleneck sweater with a fitted sheath dress. This is a great way to wear your classic dress and not have your arms exposed when it's chilly. It also gives the the dress a more casual look.

"Create a clean base with a thin, stretchy turtleneck; top it with a short-sleeved, tailored shift dress that has flattering details like a low neck and a nipped waist."

Vogue 1117 - Michael Kors Starlet Dress

Project Details:

Pattern: Vogue 1117

Description: Lined, fitted dress, below mid-knee length has pleated bodice, tucked front, invisible back zipper and center back slit.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Actually, it looked more like the original design!

Fabric: Black and White Stretch Wool Tweed

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were well written. But I agree with Allison about the "Average" rating of this pattern. I think it should have fallen into the "Advanced" category. This is not a pattern where you can just gloss over the instructions and go for it. Nor is this an afternoon project. You have to make sure that you make all of your markings, read every step and sew in the order suggested.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love most of Vogue Pattern's "major" designer patterns. This pattern was identical to the Michael Kors Collection "Starlet" dress. I love the v-neck, the draped bodice and the diagonal seaming that I've been seeing everywhere. I always get sucked in by the details.

I've notice that Michael Kors uses facings on his linings. Anybody else ever noticed that or any other designers that use this technique?

Now let me tell you what I didn't like:

At step 8, they would have you use a 2" stabilizing remnant sewn to the outside at the pivot point where the bodice side is to be attached to the bodice front.

This is one of those unnecessary steps that I feel take this pattern from (what they claim) is "AVERAGE" to "ADVANCED". Now I know earlier, I told you to follow every single step in the order suggested. BUT, this is one of those times where you don't have to.

In order to stabilize the pivot points on the front and back pieces, I used a 2" piece of fusible interfacing on the inside.

front bodice

back

"When you know better, you do better." -- Maya Angelou

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Other than the above mentioned step, I added 1" at the hem. For those of us that think we have to make a FBA on everything, you may want to look closely at the the finished measurements printed on the pattern pieces because I didn't need to do one.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I usually say "probably not", but I think I will sew this again for Spring/Summer. I do highly recommend it!

Vogue 1151 - Little Black Dress

Pattern: Vogue 1151 - Cynthia Steffe

Notions: 18" Metal Zipper

Description: Tapered, close-fitting dress, above mid-knee has slightly raised waist, princess seams, cut-a-way armholes, two-piece bias, turned back collar and exposed back zipper.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes (with the exception of the additional length).

Fabric: Ponteroma Knit

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were very easy to follow.

Cynthia Steffe Cowl Neck Lia Dress - Searle NYC

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I'm a fan of Shaun Kearney's designs for Cynthia Steffe, so I was excited that a couple were offered at Vogue Patterns.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small FBA, added 1" to the hipline and SIX INCHES to the length, because this baby would have been scandalous without it!

Back View
Zipper Close Up
Collar
Armhole
Hem
FBA
and Lengthening

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I will not sew it again... so many dresses, so little time. But I do recommend it. This was a quick sew that only took a few hours from cut to finish.

Conclusion: This is a fabulous little dress that is so trendy and cute. I don't think it would be as special without the exposed zipper.

McCall's 5929 - Black Ruffle Shirt

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5929
Fabric: Black Dot Shirting (100% cotton)
Notions: Five 1/2" buttons

Description: Fitted shirts A, B have darted front and back, front band, front ruffles and shaped hemline; shirt A has stand-up collar, below elbow length sleeves with sleeve band; shirt B has collar and collar band, full length sleeves with placket opening and cuffs; dresses A, B have sleeves gathered at cap and lower edge.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes... but mine was sort of a hybrid.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They appeared to be. I only used them to see how the ruffles were sewn on.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I'm a sucker for ruffles and this style didn't disappoint.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made view A, but added the collar from view B. According the finished measurements, I didn't have to do a FBA. IMO, this shirt had a lot of "extra" ease. I did add an inch length. I wanted to make sure that it would stay tucked. Instead of hemming the ruffles, I used my serger. I used all French seams. And of course I used black interfacing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not. I like it, but it's not basic enough to be a "TNT". But I do recommend it.

Vogue 8601 - The Tweed Riding Jacket!

Project Details:

Pattern: Vogue 8601
Fabric: Brown wool blend tweed
Contrast: Faux suede
Lining: China silk

Description: Jackets A, B, C, D, E are close-fitting, lined to edge and have princess seams in upper section, darts in lower section, back slit, upper and under collar, one buttonhole in waist seam and long sleeves with elbow darts. A: contrast collar and upper section. A, B, C: two buttonholes. B, D: contrast upper collar. A, B, C, D, E: back length is 30".


Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't follow Vogue's instruction. I consulted my tailoring books.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the "riding" style of this jacket. Another great design from Vogue that falls right in line with the "Country Chic" trend. Also, this pattern could be easily translated into an evening tuxedo. I would use crepe back satin using the matte side for the body and the shiny side for the lapels. Hmmm...

The pieces are drafted great, but the only thing I didn't like about this design is that they didn't use a 2-piece sleeve. But this is just my personal preference on tailored jackets (and coats).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small princess seam FBA. I did the whole tailoring kit and kaboodle. I also added suede elbow patches that I drafted myself. They are sewn on by hand using a blanket stitch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know if I'll actually sew it again, but I would love to make a ladies' tuxedo from this pattern. I think it would look great in an evening style. Not sure if I'll ever get around to making it, but I'll definitely keep it in mind. If you like this style, I highly recommend it.

Conclusion: I think I'll be sending it to the cleaners to get a good professional press, but I'm sure I'll be getting a lot of wear out of this jacket. It's the perfect weight for an Alabama Autumn!

Article: Another Fashion Writer *tries* to sew...

I bumped this post back up to share the author, Faye Penn's jacket! She commented and uploaded the pic! Faye, I think you did a fabulous job on the jacket!

click images to enlarge

Carolyn had mentioned this article a couple of weeks ago and I was dying to read it, but my October issue of InStyle had not yet arrived. "Project Disaster" by columnist Faye Penn is about her decision to base an article on sewing her own designer outfit. She decided to use Vogue 2923. Now, the article didn't reference the pattern number, but she did say it was a DKNY. And I recognized the illustration because I've made that jacket -- twice!

The article is hilarious! She bought her fabric from none other than Mood Fabrics (because clearly in NYC's garment district, that's the only choice). She had success with the blouse. She decided to make the jacket in wool and make it reversible. Ambitious much? The part that would have stopped me in my tracks was when she lost the pattern piece for the jacket flounce. She decided it would be a good idea to take the instruction sheet and venture off to Staples and have the thumbnail enlarged. *Blank stare...* The next part about the pants and wearing this ensemble to meet with Jane Chung - DKNY's executive vice president of design is beyond funny!

My take on this article is it was very REALISTIC. In my opinion, Faye's results were more realistic than the Vogue writer who had Jason Wu at her side guiding her hands and sewing her lining. I found Faye to be fearless for even considering diving into a project like that. I know people that have been sewing for years that won't go near a Vogue Pattern. Even though I'm sure the results weren't that great, I wish they would have published the photos of the finished pieces. I hope this is becoming a trend because I would love to see more D.I.Y. projects in fashion magazines.

Vogue 8601 - Part 4 - Setting in the Sleeve

There are a few ways to set a sleeve. I set my sleeves with a bias strip of Armo-Rite. I didn't buy it, I've been recycling a couple of my husband's old ties. As you see, the bias strip is placed on the the wrong side of the sleeve cap and sewn 1/4" from the edge.

Note: While sewing, make sure that the edge of the sleeve cap stays next to the 5/8" marking on your machine!

I used a catchstitch to make my 1 5/8" hem on the sleeves.

I also added 1/2" shoulder pads.



And here is the finished sleeve!
Nearing the finish line!

McCall's 5936 - Peplum Jacket

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5936
Fabric: 100% wool
Lining: China silk
Notions: Two 1" buttons

Description: Semi-fitted princess seamed jackets A, B have separate lapels, flared peplums and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? I barely used the instructions. I've done so many jackets that I didn't need them. I only glanced over them for the the lapels since they are sewn on and not part of the jacket fronts. I also looked to make sure I was doing the peplum correctly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the peplum! And this style of jacket is very "of the moment". Who knew peplums and bustles would make a comeback?! I always like to add trendy pieces to my wardrobe.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small princess seam FBA. I also did a little bit of "light" tailoring, but interfacing all of the pieces to add structure, with the exception of the sleeves and peplum. I also added a back stay and stabilized the shoulders.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? It's a good possibility that I may sew the long sleeved version since I'm in love with this particular style. I like it, if you like it too, go for it!

Vogue 8601 - Part 3 - Shaping the Jacket Front

Interfacing the the jacket front creates a smooth line from the shoulder to the bustline and ensures that the garment front drapes smoothly over the body. The interfacing for the front is cut from Hymo and curves above the bustline and extends to the side seam, 3" below the underarm.

I also reinforced the shoulder by adding bias cut hair canvas. Padstitched the lapels, taped the roll line (by hand) so that the lapels lie close to the body without gaping.

Note: This is a very important step, especially for a full-busted figure.

And here is the under collar attached.

Next the lining...

Vogue 8601 - Part 2 - Shaping the Jacket Back

My fabric has a very soft hand. Instead of underlining, I interfaced all of the pieces with a nylon fusible.

In order to stabilize the jacket and prevent stretching across the shoulders and armholes, I drafted a back stay or "half-back interfacing". I used cotton muslin (or you can use any thin fabric), but DO NOT USE FUSIBLE INTERFACING for this part!

This is drafted by cutting it 6" to 8" inches from the neckline and about 3" below the armscye.

It's basted to the neckline, armhole and the side.

For the shoulder seams, I eased the back and used stay tape.


Note: I pinked the edges of the back stay that was hanging free to prevent fraying.

What I'm working on...

Vogue 8601

Well, it's officially Fall and this is my first jacket project of the season! I've decided to do something rather trendy. I figured a fun project such as this, would hold my attention.

In the October issue of Vogue Patterns magazine, they showed this design made in a lovely brocade. I wanted to stick with something more traditional and I decided to go with a brown wool tweed, faux suede collar and leather buttons.

Since I've been working out, I've lost an inch in the bust. This means I now have to make a smaller FBA. When I did my tissue fit, I was only off by 1/2", so this is how my FBA looks.

I've already finished padstitching the undercollar.

More to come...

My Birthday Present?

My husband gave me my very first DSLR -- a Nikon D40. He promised an upgrade next year if I show great effort in learning to use it. It takes great pictures and it's so tempting to just leave it in the "point and shoot" mode! But, I'm declaring today, that I will learn to use it manually. I'm reading up on aperature and "Depth of Field" today! I love a new toy!

Simplicity 2554 & Vogue 8603 - Two Ruffled Tops and a Denim Pencil Skirt!

Project Details:

Pattern: Simplicity 2554, View C(modified) & F
Fabric: Rayon/Lycra Jersey

Both of these were pretty much sewn right out of the envelope. On view c, I left off the banded hem. These were VERY easy... sewn on the serger and both done in the same day. They're both perfect for the "Indian Summer" weather we're having!

Pattern: Vogue 8603, View C
Fabric: Lightweight Stretch Denim

I had this fabric in my stash for a while. It was too lightweight for jeans, so I decided to use it for a denim skirt. Even though the pattern suggested lining this skirt, I omitted it because I wanted it to be casual. This is another pattern that was ridiculously easy, that only took a couple of hours from cut to finish.

It's My Birthday!

On this day, 39 years ago:

Richard M. Nixon was the 39th POTUS

The top songs were:

I'll Be There - The Jackson Five
Ain't No Mountain High Enough - Diana Ross
Let It Be - The Beatles
Bridge Over Troubled Water - Simon & Garfunkel
I Think I Love You - The Partridge Family

The top tv shows were:

The Carol Burnett Show
Hawaii Five-0
The Mary Tyler Moore Show
The Brady Bunch
The Odd Couple

Ahh... if we could only go back to these prices:

bread - $0.24/loaf
milk - $1.32/gal
eggs - $1.16/doz
car - $3,542
gas - $0.36/gal
house - $26,600
stamp - $0.06/ea
Avg Income - $11,106/yr
min wage - $1.60/hr

Life's Lessons...

Well... here I am entering the last year of my 30s. It's been a great decade for me. I've gone through a tremendous amount of growth and change... very significant in comparison to the 20s! I've learned who I am. I've learned to love the skin I'm in. I've learned to love all of my flaws... and there are PLENTY! I've learned that I'm not perfect, nor do I have to be. I've learned to say "no" and mean it! I've learned that it's okay if others don't like it. I've learned that I'm a great mother and a great wife. I've learned that it's my own responsibility to make ME happy. I've learned that it's okay NOT to be a martyr. I've learned that it's okay to etch out some "me time". I've learned that it's not always about me. I've learned to put others first. And, I've learned what's important and what's not.

I'm going into this new year of my life with no sadness and no regrets. I'm going to live it up and look forward to turning the "Big 4-0" one year from now. May this last leg of the 30s, be as good (and better) to me as the last nine!

Happy 39th Birthday to Me!

F.A.Q.

Q: "What kind of sewing machine do you suggest for a beginner?"

A: I don't. Read: "Erica, which one should I buy?"

Q: "What machines do you have?"

A: A Bernina Activa 130; a Brother SE-270D embroidery machine; a Brother 1034 D serger and Brother 2340 CV coverstitch


Q: "What sewing books do you have?"

A: A few and I use them all of the time! See here: "My Sewing Library"


Q: "What book(s) do you recommend for a beginner?"

A: "The Complete Guide to Photo Sewing - Singer"


Q: "What kind of dressform do you have?"

A: A Twin-Fit Dressform.


Q: "What kind of iron do you use?"

A: A Consew Silver Star CES-300 Gravity Feed


Q: "What kind of cutting table do you have?"

A: I use a Sullivan Home Hobby Table - 36" x 36" x 59.5"


Q: "Will you post a picture of your sewing area?"

A: Here it is: Sewing Room


Q: "Will I save money if I learn to sew my own clothes?"

A: See the discussion HERE!


Q: "How did you learn to sew and how long have you been sewing?"

A: I learned to sew in 8th grade home economics. I didn't sew throughout high school because it wasn't "fashionable" at the time. I started back sewing home interior items (drapes, curtains, pillows, etc...) when I got married. I made my own maternity clothes and clothes for my children when they were small. I got back into sewing around 5 years ago when I became a stay at home mom in need of a hobby.

Vogue 1119 - Donna Karan Jersey Draped Dress

Project Details:

Pattern: Vogue 1119 - Donna Karan Collection

Fabric: Black Ponteroma Knit from Hancock Fabrics (72% Polyester; 24% Rayon and 4% Spandex)

Description: Semi-fitted dress has cowl collar, pleated and darted skirt, raw edges. Wrong side of fabric will show*.'

Pattern Sizing: 6 - 20. I cut the size 16, to insure that I would have adequate ease for draping... which is the essential design element of this pattern.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were easy enough that a beginner could handle this project with ease. I went from cutting the fabric, to muslin to finished garment in a day. Keep in mind, that's all I did that day, LOL!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I always love the "designer patterns". I love that this dress, was plucked right off of the runway. It was in the Donna Karan Fall 2008 RTW Collection:

This style also emphasized one of the hottest trends this season -- draping. I love that the style of this dress has minimal draping and could be made in a fabric that was appropriate for daytime.

InStyle - September 2009

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: When I open a pattern up, the first thing I do is flat pattern measurements. I very rarely make a FBA on knits with moderate stretch and according to the finish measurement, there was enough ease (for me). The design of the skirt was "interesting" to say the least. I always assume that I will need to lengthen everything, because I usually always have to. There was no alteration line on the skirt part of the dress. And the hemline left me confused, so I made a muslin. And on this rare occasion, NO alterations were necessary.

NOTE: Ladies shorter than 5'9", be aware of where you want the hemline to land. Mine hits in the same place as the model on the pattern envelope.

Instead of staystitching, I stabilized using clear elastic for the neckline and shoulder seams. Also, instead of using seam binding, I just made a 5/8" hem on the skirt edge and hem. I also did this at the armholes. I left the neckline unfinished. *When I wear it, I'll just turn it to the inside because I don't want the seam to show on the outside.

What I didn't like:
On the skirt, the markings seem to be misplaced. Where they suggest the center back and center front should be, was askew. Also, the instructions suggested that the skirt be attached to the top by an indicated square... when there was a perfectly good side seam. I tried it their way by basting the skirt to the top. The back darts were askew and the skirt didn't hang correctly. When I made my correction by lining up the right side seam of the skirt to the side seam of the top, everything else matched up accordingly.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, because it's such a unique style, I only need one. If you like something a little more "edgy" and this is your style, it's a quick and (Vogue) easy project.

My Favorite Room!

This is my favorite room and probably the one that I spend the most time in. Not my dream space, by I feel lucky enough to have a dedicated space. At the end of the day, I can just hit the lights and leave everything as is! As much as hated cubicle spaces when I worked outside the home, it's ironic that I set my sewing room up in such a manner. LOL... I guess it's what felt "natural".

Valentino: The Last Emperor -- Coming soon on DVD!

I am so excited that this movie is coming out on DVD and Blue-Ray on September 8th, because it never played here in Alabama.

Also, you have a chance to...

"WIN A VALENTINO GOWN with VALENTINO THE LAST EMPEROR DVD SWEEPSTAKES"

Valentino Red is as about as iconic as you can get in the fashion world.
Now, courtesy of Phase 4 Films and Decades Inc., you have a chance to
own a piece of fashion history!

Here’s your chance to enter for the chance to win a classic Valentino Red vintage column crepe dress from the designer’s early 1990s collection. Beginning September 1^st, people may submit their entry by sending an email to valentinodvdcontest@phase4films.com with their contact information including name, address, phone number and email address. The deadline for entry is December 31, 2009. Official contest rules are listed at www.valentinomovie.com.

Get the movie and good luck with the contest!

House of Jazmin

If you're like me, then you probably haven't a clue as to the programming on MTV. I discovered a new reality show - House of Jazmin. It chronicles the behind the scenes life of the 20 year old aspiring fashion designer Jazmin Whitley of Li Cari.

Yes, she does sew on a Bernina 830!

And her inspiration?

I think my biggest influence and inspiration would be Coco Chanel because just, like, the cuts and the fabrics and everything are so, like, my personal style. And so it's so, like, exciting to see all of her work and how she started with hats, and when I was young I started designing, like, sketches of perfume bottles. I was just attracted to design in general and so then as I got a little bit older it, like, went, like, all the way toward fashion.

NyMag

How many "likes" was that? Okay, how about you, like, check out this, like trailer of the, like show:

The House of Jazmin airs Tuesdays on MTV at 10:30pm ET, 9:30pm CT

Article: A Fashion Writer Learns to Sew!

I read this article in the September issue of Vogue and it made me smile. Anytime someone, especially those that have access to high-end designer duds take an interest in sewing... well, I just get goosebumps! The author spoke of taking an interest in sewing lessons in order to make curtains and pillows. She discussed this with her editor at Vogue and the editor told her that learning to sew in order to make home decor was "bor-ing"! My sentiments exactly! (No offense to anyone who only wants to sew home decor, LOL.) She suggested that she make a dress! What a mar-velous idea! The author felt that since she writes about clothes for a living, she should know how they're made! I totally agree! I think ALL of the fashion writers and editors should take a garment sewing class.

The author's editor suggested Jason Wu (yes, "Inaugural gown Jason Wu") as a sewing instructor. We should all be so lucky!

Click the images to enlarge them to read the article:

ETA: I see a few of you questioned the use of the expensive dupioni for her first project. I say, why not? She knew that the dress would be photographed and put in THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE OF VOGUE!!! Surely you didn't expect for her to use "quilter's cotton" to copy Jason Wu's runway dress??? No need of playing in the shallow end of pool... might as well jump off into the deep end! Plus, she had a top designer to guide her hands. I always tell people when they ask me for advice, work with a fabric that you love! If money's not an issue, even if you fail, you can simply look at it as being "just fabric".

McCall's 5845 - Animal Print Sheath Dress!

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5845

Fabric: Grey and black leopard print - Poly Charmeuse

Notions: 14" invisible zipper

Description: Fitted, lined dresses A, B have extended shoulders, outside darts, low-cut back with back zipper closing, back slit and mid-knee length; dress A has purchased belt; dress B has belt with bow.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were easy enough that a beginner could handle this project with ease.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? When I first saw this pattern, I thought, "Meh, another sheath dress. But the pleats are interesting." But then, I looked at the technical drawing and say the back and was sold!

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I added about 3 inches to the hem. Had it not been for the length of this dress, I would have been able to sew this straight out of the envelope.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Doubtful that I'll sew this again, but I do recommend it.

Conclusion: I think this dress is very flattering and the low-cut back is downright sexy!

Butterick 5352 - Little Red Dress!

Project Details:

Pattern: Butterick 5352

Description: Pullover A-line dress, above mid-knee length, has lined, fitted bodice, tucks at neck, pleated front and stitched hem, cut-in armholes give halter effect.

Pattern Sizing: 6 - 20, I cut the size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were fairly easy. just be careful when making the tucks on the bodice and the skirt.

Fabric Used: Matte Jersey.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the style of this dress. This is another of those dresses that look like a halter from the front, but provide full coverage in the back.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I added about 3 inches to the hem. No FBA was needed because it's a knit. Had it not been for the length of this dress, I would have been able to sew this straight out of the envelope.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Doubtful that I'll sew this again, but I do recommend it.