If what you want doesn't exist, create it! That's my wardrobe building philosophy. So when I saw my inspiration jumpsuit, I had to create a similar look. It wouldn't let me sleep! The retail ad I'd previously looked at followed me around the web. Then I saw two celebrities wearing it. I felt like the sewing universe was washing my face with this look. I was going to be creatively paralyzed until I got this out of my system, so I got started.

Johanna Ortiz Javari Jumpsuit

When I'm preparing to copy an inspired look, I study all of the details and look closely at the lines. This jumpsuit has a strapless, sweetheart neckline; tie-front, knotted bustier bodice; a cutout above the midriff; a high, wide banded waist and pleated wide legs with a center back lapped zipper.

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For my bodice, I pulled Vogue 8849 from my pattern collection. It's currently out-of-print, but any strapless, sweetheart bodice with princess seams will work. What I loved most about this one is that it comes with cup sizing. That eliminates having to do a FBA.

I cut a size 14 - D cup bodice and modified it with the ties and the cutout.

This is how it looked with the added waistband.

The bodice is boned and it has bra cups.

For the pants, I used McCall's 7167. 

I had previously made the culotte jumpsuit, so I knew how these would fit.

Since I made culottes the first time with this pattern, I only had to add length and finish these pants with a 2 inch hem. And I finish the entire thing off with a center back lapped zipper. 

And my fabric is this Rayon Crepe Woven from LA Finch Fabrics.com.

Here's the video tutorial:

My idea of a perfect 4th of July dress is bright, colorful, cool, comfy and cute. Which brings me to this dress. 

My dress is inspired by this Mara Hoffman dress that retails for $425.

My dress started with the fabric. I lucked up and found a fabric that was very similar to the one used in my inspiration dress to give me a real "See It! Sew It! Style It!" moment. It's this multicolored bold striped cotton from Mood Fabrics.com. Unfortunately, this fabric is so amazing that it's sold out. The good ones always sell fast.

To achieve my inspiration dress, it was all about the empire style bodice.

I had to reach way back in my pattern filing cabinet and dig out 10 year old McCall Patterns 5381, that's been long discontinued.

The first thing I need to do was to modify the bodice. I cut the size 14. The bodice came in two parts: there are pieces that look like bra cups and the overlay pieces that tie in the front.

I omitted that bra cup pieces and cut 4 pieces of the overlay instead, the additional 2 pieces are the lining. I shortened the ties to 6 inches. And I created the cutout in the CF of the skirt.

For the skirt pieces, I left the length as it was. I wanted a length that was shorter than a maxi, but slightly longer than a midi. I like the length where the dress was hitting on the model in the inspiration photo.

I omitted the zipper. Since my bodice is open, it allowed me enough room to slide the dress on over my head. And I also widened my straps to one inch wide.

I could've cut the back of the skirt on the fold, but I cut 2 instead. I wanted the stripe pattern to appear more balanced.

And I finished my dress with a blind 2 inch hem.

So, I've added a new jumpsuit to my arsenal! This time, it's Simplicity 8426. Mimi mailed me this fabulous new pattern before they hit the stores and I knew I wanted to make it in white. I haven't had a solid white jumpsuit in years and I knew it was time.

For weeks, I'd been searching for the PERFECT bottom weight white crepe fabric. And this time, I found the perfect one. This White Polyester Crepe from Mood Fabrics.com is every single thing! It's not creamy like some white fabrics. It's pure white... "White Party" white! And it's thick enough for pants. Polyester has always gotten a bad rap. But throughout the years, polys have improved significantly, so you shouldn't sleep on them. This one is extremely high-end and looks like the type you see in luxury brand clothing. Take my word for this, because I'm not one to walk around looking "cheap".

For the jumpsuit, I cut the size 14. I lengthened the bodice by an inch. And I lengthened the pants by 2 inches. I was surprised at how long these pants are drafted. I usually have to add 4-5 inches to pants patterns to wear with heels.

I absolutely love this bodice and I knew this style would work for me, because I've used it before:

White Scalloped Dress

The bodice is lined. I self-lined mine. The lining is machine stitched to the zipper tape and slipstitched at the waist.

And it's underlined to keep everything in place.

Experience has taught me over the years that when I'm dealing with a fitted bodice and a "snatched" waist seam, it's best to NOT use an invisible zipper. I've learned that lesson the hard way. There's nothing like arriving to an event and as I began to exit the car, that cool breeze hits my back!

So yeah... I rock with metal zippers! Especially since this fabric has no stretch... it's 100% woven. And at the top of the zip, I added a hook & eye. Just for extra security to keep the zipper from opening.

The pattern suggested a rouleau button loop. But I created a thread loop instead. Only because I'm partial to thread loops.

The pants are gathered at the waist. I pressed mine as flat as possible to reduce any bulk. The midriff/waistband piece which is initially attached to the bodice first, just kind of hangs free. I knew mine would roll and flip up so I fused it down with Stitch Witchery. 

I had a conundrum with the pants. As much as I love pockets, I hate pocket show-thru in white pants. Sigh... But I added the pockets anyway. 

I really felt as though I would miss them. Because my hands just naturally want to go there.

The pants are finished with a nice deep 2 inch hem. I don't think hem depth has been discussed enough. You need that wide, deep hem for wide-leg pants to hang correctly. But all in all, I love this jumpsuit and I can see myself making this one again.

So, I wanted a pair of khaki shorts. Khaki is such a basic wardrobe staple that will work with any other color. A classic neutral! 

But what I didn't want is a pair of plain shorts made from chino twill fabric.

I was inspired by these Peserico Suede Shorts. They retailed for $500, but are currently on sale for $199. Talk about an "I can make that" moment!

So, to get started, I drafted the base style from a pair of RTW 5" shorts that I already owned. I know I'd only need to add the details. But drafting pants is not easy at all. I had a lot of kinks to work out. It took me a solid week to create these and I questioned why the hell did I even start with these stupid shorts multiple times. But I have to always see things through until the end.

The first iteration came out way too small. I think I forgot to calculate in the seam allowances. I was almost finished. I only needed to attach the waistband and hem them. But when I tried them on, they wouldn't go past my hips. I was absolutely crestfallen. I threw them in a corner and went to bed.

I got up the next day and started all the way over from scratch and they worked! 

I added 2 darts to the front and 2 darts to the back. Like my inspiration shorts, I added patch pockets with flaps and edgestitched and topstitched them.

I also added inseam pockets.

For the back, I added faux welt pockets:

The reason I chose to use faux welt pockets is "pure laziness". I know I can make welt pockets and if you've been reading this blog, you know I can too! Those are a lot of steps and I had nothing to prove. And it's not like I'm going to stick my wallet in my back pocket! 

I just really like the aesthetic of that classic menswear detail.

I'd planned on making the belt with the D-rings like my inspiration. But I ran short on this fabric. BTW, it's a faux suede that I picked up in Atlanta a few months ago from Fine Fabrics. So I just integrated the channel stitching detail into the waistband.

These shorts were a real treat to make, even if I wanted to burn them in the process. Sometimes I just feel the need to challenge myself!