Tuesday, January 01, 2013

Review: Vogue 2873 (OOP) | The Pea Coat!

Happy New Year!!!
Every year since this pattern was released back in 2005, I've planned to make this jacket.  I've bought fabric every single year and the fabric seems to get designated for another project -- each year.  For the life of me, I couldn't remember why I'd never gotten around to making this.  But this year, I was determined to make my pea coat that I've wanted for so long.
This is out-of-print Vogue 2873, a design by Michael Kors from his Fall 2004 collection
Original Michael Kors pea coat
What I love most about this design is that pea coats are so traditional and timeless and this pattern was no exception.  
Pea coats are a wardrobe essential that every well-dressed woman I can think of owns and wears to death.  The pea coat was made iconic by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.  That's why it's often referred to as the "Jackie O jacket".
They have the ability to make your ensemble look much more pulled together than otherwise.

For my pea coat, I chose this pattern because it has all of the details that I wanted (i.e. military-inspired epaulets, three row high buttons).  I wanted to use a heavy weight, high quality coating fabric so I chose this wool/cashmere (wool 80%/cashmere 20%) fabric.  I can't tell you how luxurious this fabric feels.  Unlike how wool can feel itchy, the cashmere makes it feel like a cuddly blanket you just want to wrap up in.
Here are my jacket "innards".  As you see, I've intricately tailored it.  I'm not going to go into great depth and description because I've blogged extensively in the past on my tailoring techniques.  The only thing I really did differently this time was using the machine instead of padstitchng.  It tremendously cut down on all of the handstitching.  I used a serpentine stitch as seen in Kenneth King's book "Cool Couture".  Other steps were taken from my tailoring go-to book -- "Tailoring:  The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket".  
And for a vast amount of info on tailoring a coat or jacket, please check out "The Great Coat Sew-Along" blog.  The sew-along is way over, but the information is still there and is invaluable.
The only modification I had to make was adding an inch of length to the body of the pea coat.  I was pleasantly surprised at how generously the sleeves are drafted.  I couldn't believe I didn't have to lengthen them.  
For the lining, I used black Bemberg rayon that I picked up at Joann's.  My location stays pretty well stocked in the basic colors.  And my favorite detail of all are the great silver/gold crested shank buttons.  
They just take the jacket to next level compared to the ones I see most in ready-to-wear.  And I topstitched using heavy-duty thread that wouldn't get lost in the thick fibers of the fabric.
For my final project of 2012, this is my favorite.  I succeeded in making an heirloom-quality jacket that I plan to wear for many, many years.  

84 comments:

  1. Erica, the beautiful garments you make always impress, and the Pea Coat is definitely impressive! I love the look, the coat, you're amazing!

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  2. Beautiful coat and agree a timeless garment. Happy New Year.

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  3. as you said a timeless piece and so beautifully made, love it.

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  4. Such a great jacket! I love pea coats. I've never heard them referred to as the "Jackie O coat", but loved her style. You did a beautiful job! Happy New Year.

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  5. I am sure Michael Kors would be delighted to see his design so beautifully made Erica! A great success and the fit is great on you.

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  6. It is a stunning jacket, Erica, amazing job.

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  7. Wow! I love this jacket - I'm still trying to make the HotPatterns sailors pants you made so masterfully a few year ago. BTW, I love your hair - fantastic look.

    Thanks for the posting - I may have to put this on my "to-do" list!

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  8. Gorgeous coat. Happy new year!!!

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  9. Wow - so professional. You coat looks fabulous!

    Happy New Year!

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  10. Erica, you make our fabric look great! Well done!

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    1. Thanks Meg! The fabric is awesome!

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  11. Wow....I'm lovin' what you've created here! Your attention to detail is wonderful and your construction, as usual, is impeccable! I learn from you every time you post!

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  12. Well worth the wait. Your attention to detail is sublime.

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  13. I agree, pea coats are so timeless. I remember falling in love with them over a decade ago, and I don't know why I haven't ever bought one (I'm not ready to sew a coat yet). Yours turned out amazingly, and how nice to finish off the year with a favorite project.

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  14. Fabulous! An Erica B classic. This is why I love your sewing and blog.

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  15. What a fantastic coat - beautifully styled as always.

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  16. I absolutely love it but you know what does it for me . . . the shape of them sleeves, absolutely fabulous.

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  17. Oh and the back, only just saw that lol

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    1. Yes! I love the buttoned belt too!

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  18. Erica, it is gorgeous. It reminds me of the one Amanda made awhile ago. I am going to pin this post to remind me to have a go. (It is summer here, so no hurry). I have a beautiful piece of wool cashmere that has been ageing far too long. Happy New Year!

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  19. I love the pea coat and I'm feeling completely inspired to make one for myself! Now, if only I can find the time! Can you tell us more about the machine pad stitching? I'd be curious to see the fashion fabric and how it looks after being machine pad-stitched.

    Thank you so much for sharing your creations!

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    1. Rosanne, I'd end up pulling out my hair trying to get a detailed shot on black fabric. It pretty much looks the same as it does on the interfacing. It only shows on the underside of the collar and lapels. Thanks!

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  20. I saw this on the Mood Sewing Network and loved it! You tailored this impeccably. It truly is a classic style that you can wear forever! I love all of your special touches- the gold buttons give it a lot of character.

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  21. Your new jacket is absolutely stunning and is a classic. I love the idea of heirloom quality sewing.

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  22. Fa-bu-lous! This looks amazing. You look fantastic, and I love seeing the "innards." Awesome start to 2013.

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  23. Wow...what a show-stopping work of art! This is timeless and gorgeous...great job!

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  24. Pea coats are timelessly chic and this is no exception. What a truly wonderful make! Well done :D

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  25. I love a good peacoat, and this one is classic perfection. Your tailoring skills are amazing, and it shows in the quality of your garments. I especially like the button details on the back.

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  26. Your coat is amazing and looks fantastic on you. You're right about the buttons--they really make it something so much more special than RTW. This looks like a very expensive, custom piece. I hope my sewing skills someday begin to approach the level of expertise in this coat!

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  27. Your coat is a classic beauty! Love it! I've had that pattern since 2006 myself - it was actually gifted to me. Thanks for showing the machine pad stitching technique - I'll have to check out the book source you cited. Me and pad stitching don't quite hit it off.

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    1. Faye, the machine pad stitching went so quickly. It's definitely a method to look into. Thanks!

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  28. Beautiful coat Erica! What a way to end 2012! I can't wait to see what you make next.

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  29. Replies
    1. Thanks create share and give!

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  30. WOW, gorgeous coat. You did a beautiful job. Do you have a list of "must have" in a wardrobe? Thanks

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    1. Thanks Elena. I don't. But just last night, I was thinking of writing something about wardrobe building/wardrobe planning. Thanks!

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    2. I look forward to it!!

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  31. Lovely jacket, Erica. I have just ordered a copy of "Tailoring" and plan to make several jackets for 2013!

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    1. Good for you Regina! Thanks!

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  32. Marvelous!! Saving the best for last... wear it with joy!

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  33. I know I already commented on MSN, but o-m-f-ing-g, I LOVE this. It's beyond amazing-- great job, girl!

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  34. This coat looks amazing on you. As usual you did a wonderful job. Happy New Year. Can't wait to see what you have in store for us.

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  35. Thanks for the inspiration! My daughter had and lost (somehow) a pea coat and has wanted another one. When I read this posting, I went on Ebay and found the pattern. Now I can make her another jacket. Thanks again!!

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    1. Thanks Jo Ann and good luck with your daughter's jacket!

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  36. That is a truly beautiful coat! I have had my eye on a wool/cashmere blend...guess where I'm headed? ;-)

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    1. Thanks Darby! The fabric is divine!

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  37. I absolutely love your new coat and can see why it is a favorite.

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    1. It really is. Thanks Cennetta!

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  38. This coat looks like it came from Neiman Marcus, gorgeous!!!!!

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    1. Thanks Denise! That's a great compliment!

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  39. You just took me down memory lane! My late brother (gone these past 4 years - love you & miss you Bubby!), Jim who is 12 years my senior was in the Navy. When I was a teen, my mom took his USN issue pea coat apart and made one for me. I had totally forgotten until I saw yours!

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    1. Yep, everything old is new again!

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  40. Erica, your pea coat looks wonderful. I know you will enjoy wearing it for many years. I feel inspired to get my sewing room straightened out so I can make one.

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