Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Review: Vogue 1317 - Chado Ralph Rucci | Oxblood!

This is Vogue 1317 - Chado Ralph Rucci.  When I was getting ready to cut this pattern out, I came to the realization that even though I've collected almost every Rucci pattern that VP has released, I've never made one.  That was really surprising, downright shocking considering how much I admire his designs and skill.  If you ever run across his documentary "Ralph Rucci:  A Designer and His House" on Sundance channel, it's a must see!  He's a serious haute couturier! 
Here is the runway version from Chado Ralph Rucci Fall 2011.

And just to give you an idea of how his looks trickle down from the runway to the realway, here are a few of his recent design offerings at Neiman Marcus.
Description: Dress has low neckline slit, close-fitting bodice cut-in-one with sleeves (slit), side back bodice extending into uderarm gusset, lined midriff, single-layer tie ends (wrongside shows), skirt with side front/side back seams, side front pockets/vents, invisible back zipper, stitched hems, and self-bias binding. Topstitching and edgestitching. 

Now the fabric suggestions are faux suede and a lightweight double knit.  Things that make you go "hmmmm..."  As long as I've been sewing, that should've given me pause.  Those two fabrics move, drape, wear and behave completely differently.  Either a garment made in the woven fabric is going to be too tight (not enough wearing ease) or the knit garment is going to be too loose (too much ease for a knit garment).  I'm always perplexed when such opposite fabric suggestions are offered.  But oh well, I decided to go with the fabric similar to the runway version of the dress, because it's all I could envision when I pictured the outcome of this pattern.  I'll learn one day...
I checked the flat pattern/finished measurements as I always do and cut my normal size for VP patterns.  I'm going to tell you right now, this pattern did not offer ANY altering lines.  So if you need to add or subtract, you're on your own with this one.  Most patterns are almost always at least an inch too short in the waist for me, so I added an inch to the bodice.  I should've done an FBA.  Even though the neck slit isn't gaping, it would've probably laid closer together.  And I added 3 inches to the skirt because this dress was pretty short.  As you see, it still stops above the knee.  How I made this alteration was to find a good place in the middle of each pattern piece and cut there to add my additional length.  I choose to do it this way instead of going to the bottom as not add additional width.
Do you ever find yourself making nonsensical mistakes while sewing?  I do all of the time, just like I did on this pattern.  When I added length to the bodice, I didn't really take into account that this would affect my zipper... and maybe I should go a little longer.  So my zipper ended up being a little too short.  And remember that thing I just said about the way different fabrics react?  Yeah... the dress ended up being too tight.  But with all of the work of topstitching and edgestitching I had invested, no way was this going to be a wader.  I added 1" panels to each side of the center back and repeated the same type of stitching and made it work.
Here is a close up of the arm slit and the gorgeous faux suede from Mood Fabrics.  The color is "cinnabar", but it fits right in with the Fall/Winter 2012-13 oxblood trend.  This fabric feels so luxurious.  It feels and behaves like a real suede.  I found that while sewing this, I needed to use a teflon foot (or a walking foot would work too). 
Notice my "sensible" heels!  Boots by Circa Joan & David.  Similar to these.
All and all, I really like this dress. I don't think I'll sew this pattern again, but if I did here are things I'd do different:  use a double knit; eliminate the tie ends so that I could do a belt if I like; and eliminate the useless pockets.  

74 comments:

  1. Erica this is absolutely lovely - I love the red

    ReplyDelete
  2. The dress is gorgeous! You always choose patterns that suit you so well. An inspiration, as always!!

    ReplyDelete
  3. You look so good in that dress! By my calculations that dress would fit me. So if you decide it doesn't fit anymore - let me buy it from you!!!! PLEASE - PLEASE. I am totally serious!

    Thanks for sharing with the internet world. Your blog is one of my favorites.

    ReplyDelete
  4. They say TRUE CRAFTSMANSHIP is being able to cover up your mistakes!!! This dress looks flawless and as always you've done a superb job. Thanks so much for the detailed review---both good and bad. This is a great look on you and those boots are killer!!!

    ReplyDelete
  5. This dress is really stunning on you! As much work as it was, it definitely paid off in the end.

    ReplyDelete
  6. The dress is beautiful!

    I have this dress cut out in a teal green double knit, but have not sewn it up yet because the gusset has me all confused. I don't know what it is about it...it is probably quite straight forward, but it is scaring me for some reason. I may baste it together before I sew it to make sure I get it right. I also eliminated to pockets...don't need that extra bulk ;) I am leaving the tie though. That's my favorite part as I'm not a big belt person.

    Thanks for the great post. I have been waiting for someone to make this dress.

    Never saw the runway version. Amazing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Abailey, he is an amazing designer. Good luck with your dress and don't overthink the gusset. It's pretty simple. Thanks!

      Delete
    2. Thank you so much for the advice. I think it looked so simple that I confused myself. I will try and get it made. Thanks again for the inspiration! I may actually make the dress now!!!

      Delete
    3. You're welcome.

      Delete
  7. The color is stunning! So very regal. Great job.

    ReplyDelete
  8. erica - we never cease to learn from you & you look amazing in this. {love} this colour on you!

    ReplyDelete
  9. great job on this piece. This look really nice on you.

    ReplyDelete
  10. It is so beautiful and looks great on you.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Erica the dress is very nicely made and the color is great against your complexion. I like his patterns as well and have a number of them in my collection and have not made any. I will take your advice and use a double knit.

    ReplyDelete
  12. This is gorgeous, Erica. Thanks for all the advice and tips.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Stunning dress... love the color on you.

    ReplyDelete
  14. What a fabulous color, and a beautiful dress. Love it!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Looks fab as usual. Why don't you set a 2013 challenge whereby you sew at least one of your unsewn pattern per month. I'll be watching lol.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Sassy T, but I don't know what you mean by "unsewn". All of my patterns are unsewn, because I rarely repeat.

      Delete
    2. Ah I must have misinterpreted you then lol. When you said "even though I've collected almost every Rucci pattern that VP has released, I've never made one" I read it as collected sewing patterns but not yet got round to sewing them yet.

      Delete
    3. Oh... you meant one of the Rucci patterns.

      Delete
    4. Yeah or any you haven't yet made yet. Hope one day I will have the courage to make a top or dress, I have only made skirts so far and they are only simple. Great to see your creations and love that you always reply on your blog. Hence being one of my favourite bloggers. Look forward to seeing your next creation. Sassy T . . .

      Delete
  16. As always, your dress is lovely! I must say I immediately thought of you the other morning. Hoda (Hoda & Kathie Lee) from The Today Show had on the RTW version of your dress (Vogue 1329 Kay Unger) at her book release party. They were showing the photos on the show. Your dress fit better and looked much better than the RTW version with the reverse white & black color blocking. I was telling my DH that your version was much better than Hoda's version. I love how you spot a great dress and make it better.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Joyce. What an amazing compliment!

      Delete
  17. Gorgeous dress and you look so pretty too! Great save on "making it work"!

    ReplyDelete
  18. This dress is really really pretty! Like how you "saved" the day! Great review and love the touch of the boots as well!

    ReplyDelete
  19. This dress looks simply stunning on you. The colour is fabulous with your colouring and it looks vibrant and chic. Glad that you stuck with it as it really is beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Love love love the dress, the color and the boots!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  21. Fabulous dress. Looks great.

    ReplyDelete
  22. I think it looks great! :) The colour is gorgeous

    www.becstitches.blogspot.com.au

    ReplyDelete
  23. Stunning, as usual!

    ReplyDelete
  24. Fearfully & Wonderfully made Erica B. Yes the heels nice :)

    ReplyDelete
  25. Looks fantastic!

    ReplyDelete
  26. Love your dress and the color. Chado Ralph Rucci's designs are architectural genius!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Sassy SEWer! And yes they are!

      Delete
  27. I am so glad to see your fabulous version of this pattern. You look great in it!

    ReplyDelete
  28. This is simply outstanding, Erica. What a project...just beautiful...

    ReplyDelete
  29. Wow Wow, you rock, it's a beautiful color on you

    ReplyDelete
  30. Holy hotness! You version is way better than the designers! I love it!

    ReplyDelete
  31. Great save on this beautiful dress. The fabric is luxurious and of course you rock the style.

    ReplyDelete
  32. I love this dress, it's ...gorgeous. The fabric is beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Very beautiful dress, Erica.

    ReplyDelete
  34. I'm curious -- how do you find designer styles that are replicated almost identically in patterns? Do you start with the pattern design and search similar runway styles, or the other way around? Where do you look for your runway styles to begin with?

    Cheers!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's an actual designer pattern that comes from the design houses. That's why their names are on the envelopes.

      Delete