A good shirt dress is a classic wardrobe staple. And based on how many shirt dresses I've sewn over the years and a couple are still in my current wardrobe, they're a favorite of mine. 

I wanted something this time that put a different spin on the classic dress. This one is McCall's 7351, view C. And my fabric is Jet Black Stretch Cotton Poplin from Mood Fabrics.com. I prewashed my fabric and pulled it straight from the dryer and smoothed it out with the iron prior to cutting. The fabric cuts, sews and presses beautifully.

This is one of those great patterns that has cup sizing -- meaning no FBA for me. I cut a straight size 14, with the D cup.

I lengthened the bodice by an inch, which is an alteration that I make to practically every single pattern I sew. And anyone with a substantial sized bust knows the feeling of getting a great bodice fit on a button up top with no gaping and pulling. So kudos to the cup sized pattern and this amazing poplin with it's slight give. I plan to make this again in a bright white, and when I do I'll lower those pockets probably about .5"-.75" inches.

Since my fabric is lightweight, I needed a comparable interfacing. I used Black Weft Fusible Interfacing. It is the perfect weight for the front bands and the collar.

I sewed the skirt straight from the envelope. I like the length as it is. 

This poplin drapes beautifully. And just like with any bias cut, I allowed the dress to hang for 24 hours. Even though stretching can still occur in bias cuts, this handkerchief hem will hide any unevenness.

I am pretty impressed with this fabric. There was minimal wrinkling even after riding in a car.

I can tell you now, this dress will be in high rotation this season. I love the simple and quick style and the versatility. Shoe options are endless and all I have to do is add a great belt for waist-cinching style!

I haven't made a little black dress in a while and I thought it was about time. So I reached way back in my pattern cabinet for Vogue 2606 from Ralph Lauren.

This pattern is 27 years old, so I guess that pretty much qualifies it as vintage. But the style is so timeless that no one would ever know!

I love anything with cut-in shoulders and a racerback because I love showing my shoulders. 

I picked this Italian Black Stretch Polyester Crepe from Mood Fabrics. I had used the Rose Dust color for Vogue 1531. It worked so well for that dress, which was also a fitted sheath that I had to have it in black as well.

I cut the size 14. I lengthened it at the waist by an inch and I added 3 inches to the hem.

In retrospect, I really only needed that length at the waist in the front. I have a little bit of extra fabric in the back that I noticed every time I got up and down... I had to keep pulling the dress down in the back.

I stabilized the neckline and the armholes and interfaced the zipper insertion area.

The dress has an invisible side zipper with a hook & eye at the top. And it has snap shoulder closure. Those tiny snaps were so fun to sew on. (Said NO seamstress, ever!) 

The dress is fully lined with a Black Creped Polyester Georgette with Give, also from Mood. 

I like the way it made me feel "held in". I noticed in a couple of pics that my lining was peeking out a bit. I'll go back and add thread chains to secure it to the dress.

And I'll make sure to do that in the next one I make. I've already decided that I need this one in white!

And the velvet kimono had to come along!

It was the perfect punctuating piece for a fall evening!

So for this year's look, she wanted head-to-toe black.  She gave me an idea to springboard from:  black dress with side cutouts.  I knew which pattern I would start off with:  New Look 6211 - SUEDESays.  I cut the size 4 and graded to the size 6 at the waist.  I also used the waistband from this pattern.

For the skirt, I choose a simple a-line design.  We wanted to keep the overall look to a "skater dress" style.  I picked the skirt from New Look 6243. I cut the size 8, because that's the smallest size offered by this pattern.  And it lined up perfectly with the waistband.  I shortened it by 3 inches because I thought an above the knee length looked better.

For the fabric, I used the SUEDESays Rosebud lace black from Jo-Ann.  I underlined the bodice with a stretch satin so that the sheen of the fabric would show through the lace.  The neckline, armholes and cutouts are finished with bias tape.  I also used the the stretch satin for the waistband.  

I didn't underline the skirt.  I wanted the pieces to hang free.  For the stretch satin lining, I used horsehair braid in the hem so that the skirt would have fullness.  For the lace, I left it unhemmed.

You all should know by now that I have an affinity for exposed metal zippers.  And at every given chance, I'll add one!

Mikaela and her date looked adorable!

And also during Spirit Week, there was Toga Day.  Now surely you know I wasn't sending her to school draped in a bedsheet.  

I used Simplicity 3647.  This fabric has a lot of ease, so I cut the XS.  I lengthened by 3 inches, because she was still going to school and I had to make sure she was within dress code.  My fabric is a lightweight broadcloth.  I used a Greek key trim and gold rope to finish the look.  

It was really quick sew and a great alternative to a basic toga.

This week was epically busy.  All I have a desire to do right now?  Sleeping and eventually waking to drag to the sewing room in my PJs.  But that's not hardly going to happen! But I shall persevere!

On yesterday, I needed to get dressed and I needed to dress quickly.  So I grabbed this LBD from years gone by, but still so relevant.  This is what I tell y'all about making things that will stand the test of time.  A little black shift dress will work wonders in your wardrobe.  A dress like this can go from day to evening; from trendy sandals to a classic pump.  Mileage people, mileage!

This dress was probably the first project that introduced me to the exposed zipper.  The instructions for insertion were great.  That's the thing about VP's designer patterns:  you learn so much and so many different techniques.  They're worth buying and making them for the finished garment of course, but for the lessons taught.  

This dress is Vogue 1151 by designer Cynthia Steffe.  You can see my original review here.  It's currently out-of-print, but if you have it, it sure is a great one!

This year I decided that, ground sweeping maxi dresses will probably not be in the cards for me.  I've been dragging around, closing my car door, getting my heels caught and tripping over these elongated hemlines for a few years now.  I'm not the most graceful gal and I've literally fallen UP stairs from my feet getting caught in my dress.  And with the temps already dipping into the mid 90s with high humidity, I just don't want to be swathed in yards of fabric this summer.

So when I have the desire to wear a longer length, it will be a midi hemline.  I can still get the same coverage and flowy, without adding to my clumsiness!

I love this dress so much!  Y'all already know how much I LOVE details and design elements.  And this "simple" black dress has a few!  Notice the cut-in shoulders... lace insets at the waist and an exposed zipper!  I'm addicted to those things.  I know one of these days, I'm going to wake up completely out of the blue and be totally over them.

Wearing:  Vogue 8900.  See my original review of this dress!

Please bare with me, new sewing is coming.  Life has been so busy these days -- hence the reason I've actually had to get up and get dressed!  But I currently have a project cut out on the sewing table.  Now if I can only find the time and muster the energy!  Pray for me!

When it comes to dresses, I usually have a preference for a fitted sheath.  That's been my go to style for years.  But lately, I've been noticing how effortlessly adorable shift dresses are.  On me, I find shift dresses to be a flattering and forgiving garment.  And what better form than a LBD!

One I can wear and not be encumbered by foundation/shapewear garments and I can feel free to actually eat while I'm wearing it... and still look chic!  And I've decided this season, they are a welcomed addition to my wardrobe.

This dress is self-drafted.  It's based on the same pattern I used for this dress.  With only minor adjustments.  But for this one, I added lantern sleeves (with a 1/4" elastic hem) and an invisible zipper.  And also, instead of using a jersey fabric, I use a black viscose crepe that I've had in my stash for many years. 

I wanted a low back, but I wanted it to be "bra-friendly".  Not too low this time.  

It's amazing what the camera flash will reveal.  Notice the sheen of my black interfacing for my zipper showing through.  It reminds me of when celebrities are caught braless on the red carpet and all of their "bits" are shown on paparazzi pictures.  I guess the next time I wear this, I'll have to avoid step and repeats and flash bulbs!

I'm pretty pleased with the way this dressed turned.  I wanted something with a simple shape, that looked just interesting from the front and the back; and with dramatic sleeves.  And that's just what I created.  I plan to make a couple more of these dresses  since they're so easy to wear.

Leather is being called "The New Denim" for Fall/Winter 2013, because it has become just that common. And I'm loving it and wanting to add it to every project possible.  This year, I'm wanting to work with real skins, but real hides ain't cheap!  So, I'm rationing out the way I'm going to be using leather this season as to not blow my fabric budget.  And a great way to do this is to make a leather and wool panel dress.

This is Vogue 1251.  It's described as:   Fitted through bust and waist, semi-fitted through hips. Fully lined and underlined.  And it suggest fabrics such as Crepe de Chine, Charmeuse, Lightweight Jersey. Lining/Underlining: China Silk.  I used black wool/lycra suiting from Mood Fabrics.  And I lined and underlined with lingerie tricot from Hancock Fabrics.  The leather is a deliciously buttery-soft lambskin from Tandy Leather Factory.  I used a single 8 sq ft hide.  And my gold metal zippers are from Jo-Anns.

I cut the size 14 and graded to the 16 from the waist down.  If you notice the pattern envelope, this dress is meant to be VERY short.  It would've been a barely butt covering tunic on me!  I added 8 inches to the length (one of those at the waist).  And I added an inch to the sleeve length.  Probably could've gone with 2 in order to have a full-length sleeve.  With the addition of length, the dress flared to an a-line.  I had to peg in the bottom to create a sheath dress.  

I'd been wondering why I couldn't find any reviews on this dress.  Even though it was short, you can always lengthen it.  And I'd always thought it had great lines and would be a great candidate for color blocking and such.  So when I started cutting out all 18 pattern pieces, I understood.  With the fabric, lining and underling, I had about 83 pieces of fabric sorted out.

I know a lot of people aren't fond of exposed zippers, but I love them.  And the addition of them to leather just makes a garment really "badass".  But if you're going to do an exposed zipper, you better do it right.  And my favorite reference guide is from Threads Magazine:  #162 - September 2012.  

And my personal tip is to always, ALWAYS interface the area when installing a zipper... for any kind of zipper.

This dress was a labor of love.  And it's going to be a great LBD addition to my fall/winter wardrobe.  And no, I won't be making this one and it's almost 100 pieces ever again!  But it's just so awesome to be able to make a dress like this.  The RTW versions made with real leather start out at $1,000.  Mine was only 10% of that to make.

Wearing: dress: Vogue 1251; shoes: Steve Madden; bag: 3.1 Phillip Lim x Target.