Every now and then, I need to cut the damn fabric and sew the damn dress! It doesn't matter whether or not I have a specific place to wear it. Because that's always the number one question: "Where are you going to wear that??" My answer: Around my house... To the grocery store... Anywhere... and Everywhere I'd like. Sometimes, I just want to sew something because I CAN and it makes ME happy. No other reason required.

This project was already on my cutting table when True Bias and Closet Case Patterns decided to host the Sew Frosting Challenge. It's basically just sewing all of that "impractical" shit you've dreamed of sewing or cutting that fancy fabric just for the unbridled joy of it. So, what better confection to whip up than a full-length evening gown... a backless, shiny one at that!

My pattern is vintage Vogue 2230 - by Isaac Mizrahi that was released in 1998. 

It's from his Fall 1997 ready-to-wear collection.

My fabric is Black Jersey Knit with All-Over Circle Sequins from Mood Fabrics. I used the white version of this fabric for Vogue 8961, earlier this year. When I posted this dress on Instagram, I was asked how difficult is this fabric to sew? It's not. It's jersey with flat, round sequins. I used my sharp needle and my walking foot with the lightening bolt/stretch stitch. I only originally bought around 2 yards of this fabric, so I used a slinky stretch jersey for the sleeves.

I cut the size 14 and I added 5 inches to the length. I was surprised at how long the sleeves were. At first, I thought my fabric had some how stretch out. 

But I looked at the envelope and saw how the sleeves were slouching at the wrists of the model. The raglan sleeves have darts at the shoulder and the armholes are finished with 1/4" elastic.

The elastic is carried around the entire back opening as well.

The collar has 3 hook and eyes closure.

Even though I cut my normal size, I found that the dress was a little big at the waist. I'm thinking it was because of the weight of the fabric. So I had to go back and take in the center back seam. And I left the hem unfinished because I like the way the fabric drapes and it looks perfect from being cut with a rotary cutter. Before you even ask about a bra... I'm not wearing one.

Cheers to the ladies for organizing and encouraging the Sew Frosting Challenge. And just like there shouldn't be a special occasion for drinking champagne, there shouldn't be one either for sewing up something fabulous.

White is the most common hue when it comes to graduation dresses.  And even though a cap and gown is worn, you don't want to have on a boring look-a-like dress.  That's why we picked Simplicity 1099.

Mikaela loves Taylor Swift.  So any opportunity she has to dress in a two-piece outfit, she takes it. She liked the cropped criss cross top and the short full skirt.  I cut the smallest size, which is the size 4.  For the top, I added an inch to the length.  She has a long torso and I needed to know the top would sit right above the skirt.  The top is very much like a bustier.  It's fully interfaced and lined with a separating zipper.

For the skirt, I used the short version and removed about 3 inches from the length.  She wanted it shorter.  For the particular occasion, I suggested that we keep it classy and stop it right above the knee.  I added a lining and used horsehair braid in the hem.  What we love most about this skirt?  The pockets!  Yes it has pockets!  Based on her measurements, I'd say that this pattern is true to size.  This pattern has so many great views, I'm sure we'll be using it again.  And for fabric, I used a stretch white satin. 

Receiving her diploma...

And picture with her niece, one of her favorite people!

This is such a bittersweet moment for me.  For those of you that have been reading my blog from the beginning, you all have witness my tiny baby girl grow up over the last 10 years.  I get emotional just flipping back through all of the previous post.  And now, my last little one attended her senior prom last night.

For those of you with daughters that have hit this chapter in their life, you know that picking the right prom dress is major.  You can't just grab something off of the clearance rack.  It has to suit her personality.  There are some girls that will want their big Cinderella moment.  Or some that want to look sexy.  And others that will take that moment to be as daring as allowed.  And then you have the ones where their mothers are trying to live vicariously through their daughters.  Since Mikaela is neither a princessy girl or one that will dress overtly sexy, she said that she wanted to look like Jessica Rabbit, have Veronica Lake-ish hair but with her on spin on it.  I thought "Modernized Old-Hollywood Glamour" and this is what we came up with.

I decided on Butterick 5182, view B.  The fabric is from Hancock Fabrics.  It's the BFF Prom Stretch Satin in Melon.  The hand of the fabric is very lightweight and drapes beautifully.  If you want to emulate a silk charmeuse look without the price tag and with fabric wider than 45"?  I recommend this one.  It worked perfectly for the fitted bias-cut style.

I cut the smallest size of the pattern, a size 6.  I had to remove about an inch and a half from the bodice down to the waist.  I had to add inches to the length of the skirt.  It does not account for heel height.  I added a total of 4 inches: one inch at the waist and right around knee level, I added three more.  There is no lengthening line marked.  How I did it was to add the length above where the skirt began to flare.

For the lining, I used a stretch mesh in the coordinating color.  

And for a bias-cut, I allowed the dress to hang for over 24 hours before I hemmed it.  It is important to allow a bias-cut garment to hang for the fabric to fully collapse by allowing gravity to have its effect.  If not, it will essentially grown and your hem will become wonky and uneven.   And for my hem, I fused it.  It created a great finish and also added weight so that the hem would hang perfectly to the ground.

Here is a closeup of her shoes and clutch.

Here a few pictures of Mikaela and her friends.

They all looked gorgeous and it was fun photographing half a dozen giggling teenage girls!

And my favorite group shot!  A take on Solange Knowles' Vogue wedding shot.

So for this year's look, she wanted head-to-toe black.  She gave me an idea to springboard from:  black dress with side cutouts.  I knew which pattern I would start off with:  New Look 6211 - SUEDESays.  I cut the size 4 and graded to the size 6 at the waist.  I also used the waistband from this pattern.

For the skirt, I choose a simple a-line design.  We wanted to keep the overall look to a "skater dress" style.  I picked the skirt from New Look 6243. I cut the size 8, because that's the smallest size offered by this pattern.  And it lined up perfectly with the waistband.  I shortened it by 3 inches because I thought an above the knee length looked better.

For the fabric, I used the SUEDESays Rosebud lace black from Jo-Ann.  I underlined the bodice with a stretch satin so that the sheen of the fabric would show through the lace.  The neckline, armholes and cutouts are finished with bias tape.  I also used the the stretch satin for the waistband.  

I didn't underline the skirt.  I wanted the pieces to hang free.  For the stretch satin lining, I used horsehair braid in the hem so that the skirt would have fullness.  For the lace, I left it unhemmed.

You all should know by now that I have an affinity for exposed metal zippers.  And at every given chance, I'll add one!

Mikaela and her date looked adorable!

And also during Spirit Week, there was Toga Day.  Now surely you know I wasn't sending her to school draped in a bedsheet.  

I used Simplicity 3647.  This fabric has a lot of ease, so I cut the XS.  I lengthened by 3 inches, because she was still going to school and I had to make sure she was within dress code.  My fabric is a lightweight broadcloth.  I used a Greek key trim and gold rope to finish the look.  

It was really quick sew and a great alternative to a basic toga.

It's homecoming time again!  I love this time of year when it comes to my girls.  As a refresher, this is what Mikaela wore last year.  She's looks so much more grown up year after year.  **sniff, sniff**

This year, I used season 5 Project Runway winner Leanne Marshall's pattern - Simplicity 1876.

I cut the smallest size straight out of the envelope.  I sewed it in taffeta with a lace overlay on the bodice and lined it in crepe back satin.  

And instead of using the belt, I added sequined trimming at the waist, for a touch of bling.  I didn't have to do any alterations all.  I would like to warn you that this dress is short!  Mikaela is 5'5", and this pattern was sewn as is.  

This pattern was not difficult at all.  However, it is very time consuming.  There are a LOT of pieces to cut out.  So if I were you, I'd allot at least 3 days to make it happen... just to be cautious.  But it's drafted perfectly and reminiscent of Leanne's Project Runway finale collection.

I really loved the layered peplum style of this dress.  I thought that the way they overlapped gave it that petal effect that Leanne is known for.  This dress is so unique and my girls never repeat the same dress, so I'll never sew this again for them.  But I highly recommend this for anyone with a young lady in their life.  Or someone that would like to wear this fresh and girly style.

In case you couldn't tell, she was thrilled!

Description:  One-shoulder, two-toned dress with empire waist, invisible side zipper and diagonal ruching.

Last Call by Neiman Marcus, $215

I used a turquoise and cobalt blue crepe back satin.  And I used just regular lining fabric from Hancock.  Colorblocking is such a trendy look right now and seemed to be well represented when we dropped Mikaela off at the school dance.  

This pattern was pretty easy to sew.  It just has quite a few tedious details that were time consuming.  Making the pleats/ruching was one.  And another was sewing in the boning.  

And the topstitching on the strap.