So, it's been a while since I've sewn anything for Mikaela. We've both been super busy. But I was determined to get her something made before she left for school. We're going to call this dress a birthday present since her birthday was at the end of July. Can y'all believe my sweet baby girl is 20 years old?! Where has time gone?

I wanted to make her something girly, cute, youthful and perfect for these last summer days.

I was inspired by this Caroline Constas Apollonia Dress which retails for $495.

For this dress, I used McCall's 7563 as my base pattern. I only needed 2 pattern pieces, the front/back and the sleeve of view D. Shirring creates stretch, which creates shrinkage. So you pattern should be 1.5 times your normal size. For example, Mikaela has a bust size of 34". So the pattern's bust size should be 51".

I found that 20 rows of stitching was enough to cover the bust area for an empire waist. If you're smaller than her, maybe 15 rows and if you're larger 25 (or more).

I created 20 rows of stitching also for the sleeves.

I also modified the sleeve by created a tiered effect and finishing with a minuscule narrow hem, using my BERNINA Narrow Straight Stitch Hemmer #62.

I love the way the sleeves turned out.

I finished the neckline simply by serging.

And hemmed the dress with a 5/8" hem.

The fabric is Cotton Seersucker from Joann Fabrics.

This was such a fulfilling unselfish-sewing project, because she is so in love with this dress!

I've written a How to Create Shirring with Elastic Thread Tutorial on BERNINA's We All Sew Blog. Go see how to do it!

When I bought this pattern, the possibilities seemed endless with all of the great views in this package. I already had this amazing Black/Ecru Saint James Striped Ponte Knit. But I had a few yards of it and I wanted to make the best use of it, so why not a dress?

I started with the size 14 of view C. I knew from past experience with a top/dress like this that I would need to do a FBA. So I did a one inch FBA to create a horizontal bust dart.

And I extended the length into a dress. Once I sewed my darts, this dress sews up just like the top.

The only other thing I did differently was cut out my fabric on a single layer do to the stripes.

This was the perfect fabric for this dress. Maybe I'm a tad bit biased, but I've said it before: Mood Fabrics has the absolute BEST selection of ponte knits. This knit has amazing recovery and this dress will never "bag out". I'm really pleased with how this turned out. I'm going to carry this one right over into autumn and pair it with a long cardigan or a leather jacket.

As you all have figured out by now, I'm completely obsessed with the off-the-shoulder trend. I think it's so adorable and easy to wear. On the 4th of July, I wanted something easy, comfortable, cool to wear for the hot and humid evening. So at the last minute, it was around 2pm, I decided to put together a look in patriotic colors.  I had this blue paisley print cotton poplin in my stash. I bought it last year from Mood Fabrics. I don't see it on the site, but here are some fabulous cotton paisley prints.  Here's how I made my quick and easy dress:

What you need:

Supplies:

Creating your pattern:

Note:  You can draft your pattern pieces on paper or draw them out on your fabric with chalk. Your choice and either will work.

Let's determine the width and fullness of the dress!

We do this by using Measurement 1 and a little bit of math (The Ratio of Gathers).

1.5:1 = slightly gathered

2:1 = obviously full

2.5:1 = normal gathered

3:1 = luxuriously full

For mine, I used 1.5:1 ratio.  And here's how the formula looks

My Measurment 1 - 34" x 1.5 = 51". 51" will be the width of the dress.

Add the seam allowance:  I used a standard 5/8" (0.625").

You have to count each side for both pattern pieces: 4 x 0.625 = 2.5" (seam allowance)

The width of each dress body pattern piece: 51" + 2.5" = 53.5"  

But since we're cutting these on the fold, we're going to use half of this measurement: 53.5 / 2 = 26.75"

For the length, add 1" for the elastic casing and a hem allowance (I used a 5/8" hem allowance) + your Measurement 2 number.

The Armhole:

The armhole is approximately 3" wide and 5" long.  You can use a curve ruler or just freehand the shape.  See the illustration above.

The Ruffle:

The ruffle is created the same as the dress.  I wanted an obviously full ruffle, so I used the 2:1 ratio.  You do that by simply cutting 2 pattern pieces with your Measurement 3 number + 2.5"(4 x 0.625 seam allowance).

My ruffle length is 10".  You can tweak yours if you like.  Add to that 1" for the elastic casing and 5/8" for the hem allowance.

Let's make our dress!

With right sides together, sew your side seams.  I finished mine with the serger and pressed to the back back.

Hem your armholes.  Make sure to clip the curves.  And PRESS!

With right sides together, sew your ruffle.  And hem with the 5/8" hem allowance.  And PRESS!

At the center front and center back of both the ruffle and the dress, make a small clip.

With wrong side of the ruffle to right side of the dress, match your clips and pin in place all the way around.  Machine baste with a 1" seam allowance.  Scantily finish the edge with a serger.  Using your seam gauge, fold over 1" and press.  Sew your casing leaving about a 1.5" opening for your elastic.  

Wrap your elastic around your arms and across your upper bust until it feels tight enough.  Cut it and feed it through your casing.  Use your safety pin and pin both ends together.  At this point, go ahead and try on your dress to make sure your elastic is the right fit.

Sew your opeing closed and hem your dress.  Give it a final press!

I lightly steamed my ruffle.

I added one of my custom labels to differentiate the front and back.

Even though it seems like a lot, once you gather your measurements and work out that small amount of math, you're on your way.  And that Ratio of Gathers also works for amazing full circle skirts!

Styling tip: Since I was going for a red, white and blue theme, I added a red bandana and white flat sandals for the ultimate comfort!