If you sew for others, I promise you that this is the type of experience that you want to have.  I bought this fabulous Terracotta Tie-Dye Cotton Gauze from Mood Fabrics.  I picked it with a cotton maxi dress for me in mind.  Mikaela spotted it as I was unboxing.  She grabbed that fabric quicker than I could get a good look at it.  She wrapped it around herself and started prancing and spinning around like it was love at first sight.  Because it was!

She began her own pattern search on what I could make for her! LOL  She received a quick lesson on stretch vs. wovens.  She decided that she wanted this Simplicity 1108, view A kimono.

This kimono is sized from XXS-XXL.  I cut the XS because she wanted it oversized.  And it's indeed roomy.  I could wear this -- if I could pry it from her hands!  Oh, and this fabric is 100% cotton.  Always remember to prewash or dry clean your fabric FIRST before you cut into it.  I washed this in hot water and dried it on high.  I needed to make sure I got all of the shrinkage out of it because I was handing this off to a teenager.  And we know they care nothing about sorting out laundry.  EVERYTHING in the wash on cold!

I had to press the fabric so that I could evenly cut it out.  The pressing removed a lot of the character from the gauze, but I had to so that the fabric way lay flat.  I used a very lightweight knit fusible interfacing for the bands.  Finding the right weight is extremely important because you don't want it to be too stiff and take away from the fabric's natural drape.

After attaching the bands, here is how I sewed the non-interfaced pieces which are facings.  The seam allowance is turned under and press.  This can be sewn by hand for the most impeccable finish.  But I chose to do an as-neat-as-possible ditch stitch.  You want to make sure that the finish on the inside is "clean" because as you see, it will show.

View A has cut in sleeves, so this kimono is basically back, front and the bands.  The back has a center seam and has slight gathering at the neckline.

I finished the seams with my serger and the seams are pressed to one side.  I created a narrow hem for sleeves.

This is probably one of the most perfect fabric for a kimono on this style... if you like that relaxed, carefree, heading-to-a-music-festival look.

If you can't tell, she loves piece and I'm sure she'll wear it to shreds!

As you all have figured out by now, I'm completely obsessed with the off-the-shoulder trend. I think it's so adorable and easy to wear. On the 4th of July, I wanted something easy, comfortable, cool to wear for the hot and humid evening. So at the last minute, it was around 2pm, I decided to put together a look in patriotic colors.  I had this blue paisley print cotton poplin in my stash. I bought it last year from Mood Fabrics. I don't see it on the site, but here are some fabulous cotton paisley prints.  Here's how I made my quick and easy dress:

What you need:

Supplies:

Creating your pattern:

Note:  You can draft your pattern pieces on paper or draw them out on your fabric with chalk. Your choice and either will work.

Let's determine the width and fullness of the dress!

We do this by using Measurement 1 and a little bit of math (The Ratio of Gathers).

1.5:1 = slightly gathered

2:1 = obviously full

2.5:1 = normal gathered

3:1 = luxuriously full

For mine, I used 1.5:1 ratio.  And here's how the formula looks

My Measurment 1 - 34" x 1.5 = 51". 51" will be the width of the dress.

Add the seam allowance:  I used a standard 5/8" (0.625").

You have to count each side for both pattern pieces: 4 x 0.625 = 2.5" (seam allowance)

The width of each dress body pattern piece: 51" + 2.5" = 53.5"  

But since we're cutting these on the fold, we're going to use half of this measurement: 53.5 / 2 = 26.75"

For the length, add 1" for the elastic casing and a hem allowance (I used a 5/8" hem allowance) + your Measurement 2 number.

The Armhole:

The armhole is approximately 3" wide and 5" long.  You can use a curve ruler or just freehand the shape.  See the illustration above.

The Ruffle:

The ruffle is created the same as the dress.  I wanted an obviously full ruffle, so I used the 2:1 ratio.  You do that by simply cutting 2 pattern pieces with your Measurement 3 number + 2.5"(4 x 0.625 seam allowance).

My ruffle length is 10".  You can tweak yours if you like.  Add to that 1" for the elastic casing and 5/8" for the hem allowance.

Let's make our dress!

With right sides together, sew your side seams.  I finished mine with the serger and pressed to the back back.

Hem your armholes.  Make sure to clip the curves.  And PRESS!

With right sides together, sew your ruffle.  And hem with the 5/8" hem allowance.  And PRESS!

At the center front and center back of both the ruffle and the dress, make a small clip.

With wrong side of the ruffle to right side of the dress, match your clips and pin in place all the way around.  Machine baste with a 1" seam allowance.  Scantily finish the edge with a serger.  Using your seam gauge, fold over 1" and press.  Sew your casing leaving about a 1.5" opening for your elastic.  

Wrap your elastic around your arms and across your upper bust until it feels tight enough.  Cut it and feed it through your casing.  Use your safety pin and pin both ends together.  At this point, go ahead and try on your dress to make sure your elastic is the right fit.

Sew your opeing closed and hem your dress.  Give it a final press!

I lightly steamed my ruffle.

I added one of my custom labels to differentiate the front and back.

Even though it seems like a lot, once you gather your measurements and work out that small amount of math, you're on your way.  And that Ratio of Gathers also works for amazing full circle skirts!

Styling tip: Since I was going for a red, white and blue theme, I added a red bandana and white flat sandals for the ultimate comfort!

Happy Fourth of July! We'll be spending the end of this long weekend eating and going to see our local amazing fireworks display - Thunder on the Mountain tonight. But for right now, let me share with you my latest pattern hack.

Our weather is exceptionally hot now. So I've been searching out simple cut looks for summer. I want to be cool and comfortable, but I still want to feel "dressed". While I was flipping through the McCall's catalog in Joann's, I came across this pattern. I completely overlooked it when it was initially released.  I guess I was thrown off by the "learn to sew for fun" label. I tend to go for the more advanced patterns with a level of difficulty.  

While searching for fabric deals at Hancock's going out of business sale, I ran across this fabulous printed ITY jersey and I grabbed what was left on the bolt.  McCall's 7405 was perfect because of the lack of seams.  Let's talk about the simple changes I made to the size medium I cut to make this pattern a little more special...

I cut the back on the fold and elimated the center back seam. I didn't want the seam to take away from the pattern in the fabric.  And why spend time matching the print across the back when it was completely unnecessary and didn't lend or take away from the design or construction of the dress.  

I also added an exaggerated keyhole.  I really wanted that part to stand out.

I stabilized the armholes. For a design like this, you want it to lay close to the body without any gaping or stretching.

See how that looks!

The curved hem was what sold me on this pattern. 

I stabilized my hem and sewed it very narrowly.  So I didn't have to do a lot of easing. 

I steam pressed it really well and I didn't have any waving as you see in a lot of knit hems.

I finished the dress with a chain closure instead of a necktie. 

I bought the chain and the gold tassel from Michael's and I had a lobster closure in my stash.

Style tip:  The chain is such an ornate detail that I only needed hoop earrings, some bangles and gold strappy sandal.

I seem to have a renewed love of maxi dresses.  So this is going to be a thing for a moment.  My latest one is McCall's 7242.  I researched this pattern and I found only a handful of iterations.  I'm not sure why, because this pattern has great bones.  It's a maxi shirt dress.  What's not to love?

The lines of this dress are so simple, it screamed out for heavily patterned fabric.  I'd found this ikat print at Hancock and I bought what was left on the bolt -- a little over 4 yards.  It's a poly chiffon.

I cut the 12 in the bodice and the 14 in the skirt.  For this style of dress, the skirt is cut very slim.  It's really straight.  If you're significantly heavier on the bottom, rely on the finished measurements on the pattern pieces.  They're accurate.  You may have to go up from you usually pattern size, 

I added length to the bodice, the skirt and the ruffle.  This sleeveless dress took all 4 yards of the fabric.  Instead of creating French seams, I serged my seams.  This fabric was shredding like crazy so it was best to just get it done.  

I also partially lined the skirt.  That is the only part that concerned me.

There is also a hook an eye at the elastic waist.

The armhole has a bias binding finish.

And I finished my ruffle with a narrow hem.

I decided to accessorize my dress with a Tassel Rope Belt.  Here's how I made mine:

What you need:

First, I made my suede tassels.  Mine are 1.25" x 4".  You have to cut fringe into the suede/leather first.  I did this by creating a 1/4" guideline.  My fringe are about 1/8" wide.  You can measure these off and draw guidelines or you can eyeball them as I did.  And make sure you don't cut through your guideline.  You'll need a sharp pair of scissors or a rotary cutter like I used.

String your beads on first.

Appy your hot glue to the guideline of the fringe, but not too much!

Tightly roll your fringe guideline around the end of the rope

Slide your bead down over your fringe and work it into place over the guideline.

And repeat for the other side.