A Navy Zip-Front Tailored Jumpsuit!

2:00 AM

Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
I had been wanting a zip-front tailored jumpsuit since falling in love with the Trina Turk jumpsuit back in spring.  It had been on my mind constantly.  When I set my mind to making something, it literally haunts me.  And I just couldn't get pass this.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
So I had been searching for patterns to help me bring my inspiration garment to fruition.  And then, the obvious thought came to me -- my iteration doesn't have to be an exact duplication.  It's mine and I can be inspired while putting my own spin on it.  So I stopped stressing and made my jumpsuit happen.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
For the bodice of my jumpsuit, I used Vogue 8993.  Now let's talk about the changes I made.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
I cut the size 12.  I lengthened the bodice by one inch.  Since I was moving the zipper to the front, I had room to play with the back.
For the back, I created a yoke.  
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
For the back lining, I created a back neck facing and omitted the center back seam.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
And I eliminated the seam allowance on the neckband and cut 2 on the fold.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
For the bodice front lining, I used a facing.
For the pants, I used McCall's 6930, view D.  I cut the pants in a size 12 at the waist and graded to a 14 at the hip.  I lengthened the rise by one inch.  And lengthened the leg by 11".
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
I rearranged the waistband pieces and the center front of the pants to accommodate a front closure.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
All of the pieces fit together perfectly.  And per my usual, I interfaced the zipper area.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
I created a facing for the waistband and finished it with seam binding.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
And I used a metal zipper because clearly an invisible zipper simply would not hold a garment this fitted.
Navy Zip-Front Jumpsuit using modified versions of Vogue 8993 and McCall's 6930.  Fabric is a navy stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics.  Erica B's DIY Style!
I used hem tape on the one inch hems.  And I blindstitched by hand.  I've always believed that a garment should look as exceptionally beautiful on the inside as it does on the outside.  So all of the interior details matter to me.
My fabric couldn't have been more perfect.  It's a navy stretch cotton twill by designer Tanya Taylor from Mood Fabrics.com.  It has some serious stretch, almost like a knit.  It made wearing this jumpsuit all day extremely comfortable.
Style tip:  Navy is a great alternative to black.  I played off of the silver metal zipper and accessorized with silver jewelry.  And to also break up the monochromatic look, I added a slim white belt with silver hardware and wore white pumps.  I love the stark contrast!

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65 comments

  1. I love it!!! And thanks for showing us the inside of the jumpsuit and the construction details. Beautiful inside and out!!

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    1. I love seeing the inside of a garment. I wish more people would reveal! Thanks Melinda!

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  2. Love this! I had to put a front zipper in a jumpsuit once b/c the buttons just did not work in my pattern hack.. This is a classic for years to come!

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  3. This may be my favorite of your creations! SO classic, sexy and all YOU!

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    1. Thanks Divamazon! This is currently my favorite piece.

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  4. I love it! And the white/silver accessories really make the styling!

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  5. Love this!! Wonderful job!!

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  6. Gorgeous and well constructed!

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  7. I tend to think of jumpsuits as the work of the devil - they are often shockingly unflattering. Yours is just perfection.

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  8. Absolutely gorgeous!!!!! Thank you so much for your inspiration and guidance!!!

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  9. Ma'am, this is HAWT!!!! Another fave! You look beautiful!

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  10. Love the color, construction, and styling. Thanks for sharing your skills and being a constant source of inspiration.

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  11. Fabulously fierce ! !

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  12. Very happy to see this post, great pictures, excellent construction details and a good look.

    I really apreciate how you can hack into a pattern and adapt to fit you

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  13. Your version looks much more classic and functional. You can wear this all year. The Turk suit looks like it would be to warm for hot weather! Anyway - You put your foot in this jumpsuit!!!!!

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  14. Anonymous3:07 PM

    Gah!! This is beautiful work!! I adore this jumpsuit, you did that Mrs. Erica! http://sewsincity.com/

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  15. Absolutely beautiful! All of the changes you made were perfect. Love it!

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  16. Love the color, construction, and styling. Thanks for sharing your skills and being a constant source of inspiration.

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  17. You are really beautiful with that jumpsuit. It suits you like a glove.
    It is perfect.

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  18. Very impressive, well made, and very stylish. I love it!

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  19. The most beautiful part of this jumpsuit is the inside. Exquisite handiwork!!!

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    1. I'm a fan of beautifully finished garments! Thanks Ebi!

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  20. This is absolutely gorgeous! The insides OMG! You are truly one of my favorite sewing inspirations.

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  21. Anonymous9:23 AM

    This is so chic, and it suits your figure precisely!

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  22. FABULOUS! the detail, the construction, the fit, the color, the styling..allthat!

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  23. As usual, I like yours better than the original.

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  24. Wow! That is all I can really say.

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  25. I love when the details are given and not just a dozen posed pics!!! <3

    Gorgeous jumpsuit. It's just fabulous!

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  26. I pray that I can get my skills to your level one day. Did you take a sewing class?

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    1. No, I never felt the need to. I always bought really well-made clothes and I just replicated those high-end details. Thanks Tonya!

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  27. That is drool worthy gorgeous! And I don't say that often! The inners are just as pretty! Kudos to you!

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  28. Anonymous3:02 AM

    Nice dress! I have sewn stuff like this too, and it fit very well on me. Smart pattern making idea.

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  29. Erica, I've followed your blog a while now but never commented. All your garments are nicely fitted, well crafted, beautifully styled. Your finished jumpsuit is fun and inspiring. But I really geek out seeing the details of the inside of the garment construction! Thanks for sharing!

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    1. Thanks Cathy. I love sewing geekery as well!

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  30. Anonymous7:32 PM

    I love this pattern making idea! Just right for work and so feminine! I haven’t sewn in a while but I think this is just the thing to get me going again!

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  31. Wow - that's impressive piece of tailoring! With a lining!:) And you look awesome!

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  32. I don't like jumpsuits but this one is awesome. You look stunning!

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  33. I came across your blog while looking for tips on how to hack a jumpsuit pattern! Co-incidence? What did you need to do to the centre front of the pants pattern to accommodate the zip?

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