As you all have probably learned about me, it all starts with the fabric. The fabric will always be my muse! It tells me what it wants to become. And during an occasional stroll through my local Jo-anns, I spotted this great black cotton eyelet fabric. It told me that it wanted to become a shirt dress with a full skirt. And I obliged.
In order to get the silhouette I wanted, I needed to frankenpattern. I use Butterick 5897 for the bodice and McCall's 6842 for the skirt.
For the bodice, I started with view A of Butterick 5897. I cut the size 16, but I immediately started shaving it down. This shirt has a lot of ease. I had to take in each side 3.75". This top has hidden button and button holes, so for the fly I used a black cotton voile I found at Hancock. I used it also for the collar, stand and lining.
Even though the pattern suggested that the facings and fly be interfaced, I decided to omit it. I felt that my two fabrics combined had enough body to support the design. Nor did I interface the pocket flap. This was a personal judgment call.
For the skirt, I cut view D of McCall's 6842. I partially-lined it. Meaning that I stopped my lining around the point that view A of this skirt should've been cut. I wanted to play up the eyelet fabric. I've been seeing lots of styles with eyelet, open weaves, and mesh fabrics with that half-lined look... and this is an element that I decided to add. And instead of having the zipper opening at the center back, I moved it to the right side. And I left the skirt unhemmed. I loved the way the fabric looked raw, with the slight fraying.
Since this dress has a significant waist seam and this fabric has no stretch, I added an invisible zipper to the right side... right below the arm hole to the right above the hipbone. Just so that I could unbutton the front, unzip and pull it on.
This look is called "designs that reveal and conceal". Which is also a reason why I decided to leave the bodice unlined and to just wear a full-coverage black bra. It's a good "peek-a-boo" effect with a fabric that is still substantial enough to offer overall good coverage.
