Sometimes in life and sewing, you need a do-over. And that's what I needed with this pattern. I would often see it in my pattern cabinet and think how it's such a pretty pattern but how it didn't work for me. It's amazing how we tell ourselves things and they become facts. Because it's not that the pattern didn't work for me... it's the fact that I just didn't sew it well -- at all.
I originally made this dress way back in 2006. It was my very first time ever sewing with a jersey knit. And y'all! I admittedly didn't know what the fuck I was doing! I stretched the hell out of the neckline. And look at that wonky, wavy hemline. But at the time, I was so proud of myself for one, tackling a Vogue Pattern. Back in the day, people would always warn you away from Vogues, because they were supposedly "too hard". And two, working with slinky jersey knit. I was definitely treading in deep water. That experience left me even to this day with a negative experience regarding sewing with knits. I still claim that knits aren't my favorite thing to sew. And I know this is the reason why.
This pattern is Vogue 7898 and it's long out-of-print, but the style is still pretty relevant. Wrap dresses never go out of style and asymmetrical hemlines are still so chic.
My fabric is this Pink Orbs Printed Cotton Jersey from Mood Fabrics. When I posted this dress on my Instagram account, I was asked about what skills have I learned in the last 13 years to redeem myself? Well, here are my some of my sewing with knit tips:
- Use ballpoint pins or Wonder Clips.
- Use a ballpoint sewing machine needle or a stretch needle. I always use Schmetz 90/14 Stretch Needles.
- Use the right thread. I normally use all-purpose high-quality polyester thread. I always use Gutermann Sew-All Thread. But if your seams will be taking a lot of stress, I suggest trying a stretch thread.
- There's a lot of debate on what type of stitch you should use. If your seams will be taking a lot of stress and expanding, then you'll need to use zig-zag or stretch stretch instead of a classic straight stitch. Or you can just stitch your seams using your serger. Serger stitches stretch naturally.
- Remember that knits don't fray, but the edges tend to roll like crazy. I always use spray starch and press them flat.
- You can use a straight stitch to hem or twin needles for a more sporty look. Or use a coverstitch machine if you have one.
- And I always use clear elastic at the shoulders and sometimes at a neckline to stabilize and prevent stretching out.
- Sometimes your feed dogs will "eat" your fabric. So you may want to leave a thread tail so you can slowly pull the start of the fabric as you begin to sew your seam.
- Use a walking foot if you have one. If you sew knits often, you need to invest. It's a life saver for sewing with difficult fabrics.
- And in case you do end up with a wavy hem, use your stem iron.
The wrap tie is held with a D-ring.
I just want novice sewers to take from this that even though when you first start out and you end up with undesirable outcomes, just keep going. The more you sew, the more sewing you see and the more you read about sewing, it'll all fall into place.
