Have you ever seen a garment that totally blew your mind and you became completely obsessed over it? I'm talking sending you into a state of fashion sewing frenzy of I must have this! No? Just me? 

It all started with this cape! It's R.E.D. Valentino Scalloped Trim Wool Cape. It originally retailed for $1,100, so the idea of purchasing this was never on the table. I knew I was going to hunker down and make this baby!

First, I needed to find a cape pattern with a similar shape and then I needed to figure out how to make those scallops happen. The luxury brand created theirs using laser cutting. Since I don't have the ability to do that, I needed to find an easy way.

I also knew the details I wanted to incorporated into my cape to give it that military style, so I put my thoughts down on paper during my planning stage.

My base pattern is Simplicity 8263. I started out with View A and the collar piece for view B/D.

My fabric is a wool-blend coating that I picked up at Joann's. I cut the size 14. My first modification was to the front piece. To create the double breasted front, I extended the front edge 4" from the center front. And I also used the front piece to create facings because the original pattern intended for the lining to extend to the edge. I didn't like the idea of how that would look when the cape is worn open.

What's outerwear without pockets? Absolutely useless, that's what. Like my inspiration, my cape needed slanted welt pockets.

So I had to make those happen. 

Next was the collar. The pattern only supplied a single pattern piece that is supposed to be used for the upper and under collar. A well-tailored garment has separate pattern pieces for each. 

The under collar is cut in two pieces on the bias, interfaced and sewn with a center seam. And it's also cut smaller than the upper collar to create a "turn-of-cloth" allowance. One of the most unsightly things you can see on a tailored garment that will give that "homemade look" is when you can see the sewn seams on bagged edges. I created my cloth allowances by trimming the under collar down 1/4" on the top and sides (you can go smaller on lighter weight fabric), but NOT the neck edge. When you sew both pieces together and turn right sides out, you'll have that beautiful roll.

And most importantly, no visible seam line.

I added epaulets. I created these the same what I did with my cropped trench jacket.

My cape is lined with a black crepe back satin.

It feels very luxurious and also feels pretty warm.

I created machine buttonholes and notice that I spaced them out every other scallop.

And also, an inside snap.

I absolutely love how my cape turned out! I've never been the biggest fan of scalloped edges. I always thought they were twee and cutesy. But pairing them with hard military style details is such a good match. And to make it even edgier, I wore deconstructed denim. Now, about those scallops...

My Scalloped Edging Tutorial is on BERNINA's We All Sew blog. Enjoy!

I love a casual but festive look for the holidays. The color red is de rigueur when it comes to holiday dressing. And denim always gives an outfit a more subdued feel. But instead of wearing jeans and a bright colored top, I chose to flip the look. I'm pairing a chambray blouse with bright red trousers. 

Keeping in line with the oversized sleeve trend, I reached back to out-of-print Vogue 7604 from 2002. The oversized Bishop sleeve is nothing new. Styles like these are always cyclical. So when these trendy patterns are released, I like to collect them even if I don't want to sew them at the moment. You never know... It just may take 14 years to get around to it!

This is a pullover pussy-bow (collar extends into tie ends) blouse with a keyhole back. It has oversized Bishop sleeves and wide button cuffs.

My fabric is this gorgeous Italian Blue Topweight Viscose Denim from Mood Fabrics. I cut the size 14 and I lengthened the body by an inch. I also lengthened the top part of the sleeve so that it would fall right at the elbow. And also so that the I would have a lot of fullness on the bottom.

On the back bodice, the instructions suggest that you interface the area around the the keyhole opening. But I didn't want to do it that. 

And I also have enough experience to know that for me this process works a lot better by interfacing the the facing and understitching.

I wanted to also make sure that the keyhole was obvious. So I again stepped away from the instructions and did my on thing.

I added an eye & hook.

I'm head-over-heels in love with this top! I've already worn it twice! It works so perfectly with my Simplicity 8058 pants.

Wishing you all, a very Merry Christmas!

The "Season of the Sleeve" is still going strong and I'm glad about that. Lucy from Trend Patterns reached out to me to introduce herself and her new pattern line. Lucy is just getting started, but if these designs are any indication, she definitely is moving in the right direction and she has my undivided attention. There are so many indie sewing pattern designers popping up what seems like daily. And yes, I'm one of those people that say, "How many t-shirts, A-line skirts and fit-and-flare dress patterns do we need?" So, it's refreshing to see an indie pattern designer that is like me, inspired by luxury brands that are straight off of the runway. This is my aesthetic and this is what I want see more of and what I feel that I am missing from the home sewing industry. Like the glorious golden days of Vogue Paris Originals and Vogue Couturier Designs. Stepping down from my soapbox in these stiletto boots...

This is the AW16/Oversized Sleeve Top.  And it serves me vibes from these luxury brand beauties:

J.W. Anderson White Puff Sleeve Top

Rejina Pyo Maddie Puff Sleeve Blouse

This is a paper pattern. Not the flimsy tissue either. It's that heavy weight paper like brown shipping paper. Trend Patterns are currently UK sized 6-12. I was unsure about the sizing, so I went with the size 12. This is it straight out of the envelope without a single alteration. I normally cut Big 4 patterns size 12-14.

My fabric is Italian White Stretch Cotton from Mood Fabrics. I believe it's sold out. But the pattern recommends lightweight fabrics like cotton or something sheer. But couldn't you just see this made up in a silk organza, with these sleeves? 😍

Being that this is a UK designer, the Metric System is what's being utilized. The seam allowance is 1cm which is a nice and scant 3/8". I feel all patterns should have this seam allowance. It would greatly reduce the need for trimming your seam allowances. The seams are serged and pressed to the side.

There's an invisible back zipper. And the neckline is finished with facings. 

When I make this again, I think I'll eliminate this and use bias bound finish.

What gives this sleeve its amazing shape is that the sleeve is cut into the side fronts and backs. And there is a should panel piece that runs down the center of both pieces. There is also an underarm/side panel/gusset.

So yes, I love this top! I decided to give it first spin with my Vogue 8956 black and white pinstriped wrap skirt. I'm positive that it'll look just as great with jeans!