I bought McCall's 7866 when it first came out. Even though the main photo on the envelope screamed prom, I liked the more casual looks with the sleeves. I ran across the pattern in my collection and studied it for a while and realized that it would really work for me in a jersey knit fabric.

In order to make this a more day-appropriate look or a casual date night look, I had to close up the front and back keyhole cutouts. The side cutouts and front slit are more than enough detail. I also made a full bust adjustment by one inch and added a waist dart for shaping.

For the back, I made my usual one inch sway back adjustment and a 2 inch full seat adjustment to prevent the back hem from hiking up.

I originally made the full-length with no adjustment. It hit at a weird length above the ankle as I figured it would. I knew I was going to cut it down to a midi length. That seems to be my go-to hemline. But I love the way it turned out and it's perfect for cocktails.

I haven't always been the biggest fan of floral prints, but I'm completely drawn to the dark and moody oneson these dark backgrounds. I also made a sundress in a dark floral print. I'd had this floral print brush spandex knit that I'd purchased from LA Finch Fabrics sometime last year. It felt so soft that I'd thought about making a rob, but I'd never gotten around to it. And the more I started seeing really amazing dark floral print dresses, I pulled it out.

I saw this amazing dress and fell in love with the shape of it. The style makes the floral print look super edgy and that's the look I was going for.

I picked McCall's 7833. The side ruched detail with the adjustable drawstring captured the asymmetrical essence of the inspiration dress.

Once again, I had on the tv and glanced up at the screen and it was sewing kismet! There was a dress that I had to have!

Hilary on The Young & The Restless (she's pregnant in real life) was wearing this striking pink dress with bows on it and I had to know more. My favorite site for locating wardrobe from my favorite tv shows, never lets me down.

The dress is Black Halo Mystic Bow Dress.

To make my dress happen, I simply looked at the lines of the designer dress. The main thing: princess seams with no waist seam. So, I knew I'd be starting off with Vogue 1532. For the neckline, I went with a pattern I'd already used prior -- McCall's 7728.

First thing first, I had to marry the two patterns and picking fabric. My fabric is from my Spring/Summer Fine Fabrics Haul. It's an ivory rayon/viscose crepe.

For the center front, I cut it on the fold eliminating the center front seam.

I left the back like Vogue 1532, well... I lowered it by 2", instead of having a v-back like my inspo dress. I made bias cut straps for the dress as well.

To create the bow detail, I left the seam on one side open at the upper thigh. I spread open the seam so that it would hang apart and sewn in an inset or gusset... whichever you want to call it.

Here is the inside. Now, I haven't seen the inspo dress in person. This is just how I feel things should go. And as you can see from the results, it works.

I sewed the bows the same you would sew a fabric belt and hand stitched them on.

I installed an invisible zipper.

The dress is fully-lined and I used a nude lining. My lining fabric is Donna Karan Warm Beige Italian Stretch Silk Georgette. My sewing tip: Never skip the understitching. It keeps your lining from rolling forward. I've been noticing lately that a lot of people skip that step and *think* that they can just press and go... nope. There's my way -- there's your way -- and there's the RIGHT WAY.

I finished it off with a 2" deep machine-sewn blind hem. So, that's it. I hope I didn't leave off any details. I hope you all find posts like these inspiring to know that you never have to sew a pattern straight from the envelope -- unless you want to. You can take pieces, add new parts and adjust anyway that you like!

With all of the royal wedding hoopla, I was reminded of Pippa Middleton's fabulous bridesmaid dress. But, since I didn't have a need for a gown, I decided I would go with the short version.

I've had these pictures of the Alexander McQueen Cowl-neck Silk Crepe Dress saved for years. It's one of those patterns that I've kept on my to-sew list, and I'm finally knocking it off of my list.

I used Butterick 5710. I had to make a change to the pattern to get to my inspiration dress. Even though I've had this pattern since it was first released, I'd never looked at the instructions. Even though the illustration on the front of the envelope and the technical line drawing gave the impression that the short version of the dress is a sheath dress... wrong! So very wrong! It was meant to be cut on the bias. That would've cause the hem of the dress to flounce out. And that is not what I wanted!

I cut the front bodice and drape in a size 14. I cut the front skirt in a size 16. And I cut the back in a size 16. 

For the back, I straightened the side seams and the center back edge. I lengthened by 5 inches, because this is drafted pretty short. And I added a walking vent. For the front skirt, I added 5 inches and straightened the side seams. I cut the bodice and drape on the bias as directed. But, if I were to make this again, I would cut the bodice on the straight grain. My fabric is stretchy enough as is, and I feel that it's not as stable as I would like. I cut the back and the front skirt also on the straight grain.

The bodice is low-cut. But not too low to wear with a regular bra. But, if you're making this and it's too low for your level of comfort, you can alter the pattern. This dress was drafted for 1/2" raglan shoulder pads. If you don't like shoulder pads, you can't just opt out. You'll have to remove the ease from the shoulders.

My fabric is a beautiful raspberry polyester crepe with stretch that I showed in my last fabric haul video, that I bought from Fine Fabrics in Atlanta. My lining is a stretch poly lining that I picked up from Jo-Ann. Even though this pattern only has 6 pattern pieces, this is a pretty fiddly dress to sew. And I added to the level of difficulty by adding a vent. But, it was a labor of love, because I really wanted my inspiration dress and I wasn't going to settle for anything less!

I haven't made a little black dress in a while and I thought it was about time. So I reached way back in my pattern cabinet for Vogue 2606 from Ralph Lauren.

This pattern is 27 years old, so I guess that pretty much qualifies it as vintage. But the style is so timeless that no one would ever know!

I love anything with cut-in shoulders and a racerback because I love showing my shoulders. 

I picked this Italian Black Stretch Polyester Crepe from Mood Fabrics. I had used the Rose Dust color for Vogue 1531. It worked so well for that dress, which was also a fitted sheath that I had to have it in black as well.

I cut the size 14. I lengthened it at the waist by an inch and I added 3 inches to the hem.

In retrospect, I really only needed that length at the waist in the front. I have a little bit of extra fabric in the back that I noticed every time I got up and down... I had to keep pulling the dress down in the back.

I stabilized the neckline and the armholes and interfaced the zipper insertion area.

The dress has an invisible side zipper with a hook & eye at the top. And it has snap shoulder closure. Those tiny snaps were so fun to sew on. (Said NO seamstress, ever!) 

The dress is fully lined with a Black Creped Polyester Georgette with Give, also from Mood. 

I like the way it made me feel "held in". I noticed in a couple of pics that my lining was peeking out a bit. I'll go back and add thread chains to secure it to the dress.

And I'll make sure to do that in the next one I make. I've already decided that I need this one in white!

And the velvet kimono had to come along!

It was the perfect punctuating piece for a fall evening!

From the first moment I laid eyes on Vogue 1531 by designer Lialia, I knew I had to make this! The front with the dramatic cowl neck is beautiful. But the open-back design sealed the deal! This pattern just called out to me. There is something sexy, yet sophisticated and polished about this look. I feel what keeps it in this zone is the choice of fabric.

So I immediately started searching for an amazing fabric choice. I couldn't find anything quite right. It's like when you have an idea of what you want, but not a definitive definition. But When Carlos Correa from McCall Pattern Company did his "Closer Look: V1531 Dress Pattern" video and I saw him handle the designer dress' fabric, I knew I was going to go with a lightweight crepe!

The first consideration in choosing a fabric for this dress is to take in mind how the cowl needs to drape and that the wrong side of the fabric will show! You can't use a fabric with too much body nor can you use a knit with too much stretch. So a lightweight woven fabric with a little bit of give that would support a tailored fully-lined sheath dress with a beautifully draped cowl was needed. So I picked this Italian Rose Dust Polyester Stretch Crepe from Mood Fabrics.com.

For the pattern, I cut a size 12 in the bodice and graded to a size 14 at the waist. 

I decided a flat-felled finish would do this dress better justice. 

The dress has an invisible zipper and a very necessary hook & eye closure.

I love this dress and I would love to make it again. But I think I love the fabric even more! I plan to order it in another color or 2!