McCall's 5525 - Trench Jacket

12:15 AM

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5525, View C
Fabric: Linen Foil (Linen 56%, Cotton 42%, Elastene 2%)
Lining: China Silk (100% polyester)
Notions: 12 1" buttons, 1 5/8" button, shoulder pads and heads

Description: Semi-fitted, lined, double-breasted jacket with shoulder pads, princess seams and side front pockets; jacket has belt carriers, epaulets with button closure, collar tab, front yoke, back buttoned yoke, sleeves with button bands, topstitch trim, button closure and self-tie belt.

Pattern sizing: 8 - 24W. I cut the size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love this pattern! It had all of the details for a traditional trench coat/jacket. The only problem I found is that the back buttoned yoke was drafted wider on one side. Even though it was simple to just fold it in half and even it out, this is just something you should be aware of. You don't want to end up with a lopsided yoke.

Fabric used: I found this very interesting looking linen fabric at Hancocks. I saw it, fell in love with it instantly and knew that I would use it for this project! We've been debating on the actual color. The shine of the fabric gives it an iridescent appearance. It's somewhere between a slate grey and a light blue. I wanted the lining to be fresh and springy, so I chose a citrus yellow.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Here are the changes that I made:
  • Made a 1" princess seam FBA (my normal).
  • Used muslin for sew-in interfacing for the front sections, the collar and the collar band.
  • Used nylon tricot interfacing for all of the smaller pieces.
  • Changed the undercollar from a 1 piece to a two piece and cut it on the bias.
  • Adjusted the undercollar for turn of cloth.
  • Taped the lapel roll line.
  • Added a back stay to stabilize shoulder area of jacket.
  • Added sleeve heads.
  • Topstitched with rayon embroidery thread.
  • Added the front yoke to both sides.
  • Used a keyhole type buttonhole.
  • In my opinion, the button bands on the sleeves were too long. I shortened mine by 2".
  • I followed the instructions on the lining. This means a lot of handstitching for those of you that have an aversion.
  • I handstitched the all of my hems and slipstitched the lining to the sleeves and the hem of the jacket.
Additional Views:

Hang Chain
Sleeve tabs

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will sew another version of this one again for the cooler seasons. Next time I'll use an "all-weather" fabric or use this style in wool. I highly recommend this one for the style and the wide variety of sizes.

Conclusion: I really love this jacket already! According to Mr. Meteorologist, I'll get a chance to wear it in a day or so.

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