I'm currently working on vintage Vogue Couturier Design 2925 from Fabiani from 1973, for the coat sew-along I'm hosting on my other blog The Amazing Sew-Alongs and also in my Facebook group by the same name. After I had such amazing results with my first vintage coat -- Christian Dior Vogue Paris Original 1023 from 1974. I couldn't go back to a modern pattern for a major coat project. Clearly coats from that era speak to my soul. I also purchased Vogue Paris Original 1026, a vintage Balmain also from 1974. I'm completely hooked on these!
Outside of the style of these coats are classic and timeless, and drop dead gorgeous, I love the drafting and the instructions. I love that the pattern comes with interfacing pattern pieces.
I can't even tell y'all how many hours over the years I've spent drafting interfacing pieces for tailoring projects.
Tailoring a coat or jacket is detailed and tedious by nature.
If a couple of steps can be eliminated and the instructions are there without the additional time researching, I am all for this.
I machine pad stitch because I've learned you don't have to do everything by hand in order to create a beautifully tailored garment. I have adapted a method from Kenneth King's "Cool Couture", where he uses a Serpentine stitch. It's #4 on Bernina machines and the stitch width is 5.0 mm and the length is 2.5 mm. And the question that I'm asked the most about this stitch is:
"Does the stitching show on the other side?" Yes, it does. Am I bothered by it? Nope. If you are and/or going to make a coat or jacket where the underside of the collar and lapels will be showing, then you may want to do meticulous pad stitching by hand. I've been there and done it on multiple occasions. I'm not a fan. But if it would be the best method for my garment, then I'd do it. But if I don't have to, I'm not. There's more than one way to skin a cat!
And I am definitely loving the drama of the collar and lapels!
And here's the back.
Let's talk about coat length!
This is a dress coat. And I will definitely be wearing it over dresses and skirts. I like for my dresses and skirts to fall at or below the knee. The dress underneath is Vogue 8872, my typical length and the hem of the coat is pinned up 3". This is a detail that I take into consideration when making a coat. Your coat SHOULD be the same length as your dress/skirt or longer. When the hem of your coat falls shorter than your dress/skirt, it's simply NOT flattering. Just wear a jacket. This post is directed towards those of us that sew. Shopping is different, because you have to find what's available, but this is the same direction you should head in also. And to be honest, if you're sewing your own coat, there is no reason why you shouldn't just alter the pattern to the appropriate length -- if you wear skirts and dresses during the cold months. The back length of this pattern was originally 40.75" and I adjusted it to 44".
Just something to be mindful of when making a coat!