Hello to Fall with Mustard and Chocolate!

12:00 PM

I love creating separates that can be mixed and matched throughout my wardrobe and worn over and over. I love clothes that I can get great mileage out of, yet has a bit of unique appeal. Like this amazing top.
This is Vogue 1188. It’s currently out-of-print, but still very much of the moment. Dramatic sleeves are presently trending for this season and these sleeves are definitely bringing the drama. The sleeves is what made me dig this pattern out of my filing cabinet. I wanted something simple, but not a t-shirt. And I wanted sleeve appeal. Our fall temperatures are really mild and I can go without a coat since I drive everywhere and I'm never exposed to the elements, for months into the season. So I don't have to worry about working any fancy oversized sleeves into the arms of coats for a while. So I'm going to enjoy myself with this trend.
This blouse is cut completely on the bias. So I had to be very considerate of that when selecting a fabric. I wanted something that would drape beautifully. I wanted a solid because I didn't want to camoflauge a the lines of these fabulous sleeves. And I was also thoughtful in selecting a trending fall color. I call it sewing kismet and feel that the sewing goddesses have shone down upon me when a fabric is “sew” perfect for a design. And that’s how I feel about gorgeous Mustard Solid Suiting.  I know you’re thinking, “Suiting? How does that work for blouse weight?” Simple, it’s a medium weight crepe and perfect for this bias cut. It cut, sewed and pressed like a dream.And it even tucked into my pants without being too bulky. And as a plus, this is one of the hot colors for Pantone Fall 2016 -- Spicy Mustard - 14-0952.
I cut my top in the size 14. It fits perfectly right out of the envelope. But let's talk about these sleeves. When I first saw the pattern, I couldn't really tell what was going on with them. They're probably one of the most uniquely sewn sleeve I've ever made.
The sleeves are sewn in two pieces. Each piece has a sleeve piece and a facing. The facing and sleeve piece are sewn with right sides together. The seam allowance is trimmed down and the right sides are turned out and pressed with the raw edges basted. Each of those pieces are then sewn with wrong sides together and stitched on the indicated line. The sleeve is pressed opened, the raw edges are basted and the sleeve is then set by the flat method and hemmed.
The neckline is finished with a facing. Even as striking as this top is, I still feel like I need one is a bright white!
My DIY leather jeans is the same pattern I've previously use here
My jeans were inspired by these Rag & Bone leather jeans.
Modified this time to fit the lack of stretch of this most amazing quality of faux fashion leather I’ve come across. I used this Brown Fashion-Weight Faux Leather. I gave the pattern a full-butt adjustment and added a little more room in the thigh and calf areas.
This fabric is perfect for fashion sewing. It wears like genuine leather and has a look and feel of lambskin, if that gives you any indication of what to expect. I compared it to genuine lambskin in my wardrobe and the only difference – it lacks that leather smell. It’s not vinylish or plasticky like a lot of cheap faux leathers. This is the kind that you find in high-end RTW.
And like genuine leather, this fabric works with a jean sewing pattern perfectly. I sewed these to be really fitted. Because just as genuine leather, this fabric relaxes with wearing. And I didn’t want any bagging out.

Sewing Tips!
Use two sewing machines if possible. One threaded with my normal all-purpose sewing thread and a Microtex needle. I used my walking foot. And the second machine was threaded with topstitching thread (regular thread in the bobbin), a topstitch needle and a teflon foot.
For cutting, I used a rotary cutter.  I would suggest pattern weights. But if you’re really precise, you can pin within the seam allowances. I sewed these as if I was sewing genuine leather and as I normally would for constructing jeans. I serged my seams because I like a clean inside. And most importantly, even though ironing is NOT recommended, I used my iron. I pressed my seams with my teflon foot on my iron and with a pressing cloth. If you choose to press this fabric, be extremely careful to not EVER allow the iron to actually come in contact with the faux leather.
Make sure you remove the metal zipper teeth at the seam line and above. You don't want to hit those with your needle!
I added rivets, just as I would with any jeans.
I made holes for my rivets with a hole punch. Make sure it's not too big because the rivets will work their way through.
From the wrong side, it inserted the rivet post...
On the right side, add the rivet cap. They normally snap on. But you still have to give it a few taps with a mallet to secure it.
So simple and...
the perfect denim signature touch!
I'll be getting a ton of wear out of these pieces!

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30 comments

  1. I absolutely love everything about this look!!!

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  2. I love this mustard color on you. Love the top and the fun sleeves. Great workmanship on those jeans!

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  3. Ok...Mrs. Erica...you did your thing on these jeans!!! I am going online now to nut similar fabric!!!!! They look HOT on you!!!! And I love that pattern for the top#!!! Hands down SLAYAGE!!!
    RUQAYYAH

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    1. I wish I had bought this in basic black too! I need to buy more! Thanks Ruqayyah!

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  4. Luv luv luv it, beautiful and classy as usual 💖💖😍😍

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    1. Thanks B-Styles Unlimited!

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  5. Brang that saxy baaaak gul!!!😂😂 off the chain! I an definately redoing the top!!

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  6. Wow! Love it. The color is amazing on you and the fit on your jeans is perfect.

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  7. Yep. That's all. Thassit!

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  8. Love it! Also you hair! What products do you use for your hair.... love to know. Deborah

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    1. Thank you. I use Carol's Daughter Hair Milk products line. Thanks Sweet Waters!

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    2. Txs! I have that... so, I must use it more.

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  9. I have to say that I loved the top so much I found it and bought it on Ebay. Anyone else who would like this pattern there are several available.

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    1. That is so awesome. I'm glad you were able to find it.

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  10. Wonderful makes. The jeans are tight but fit so speak and perfectly without pulling in any areas. Your adjustments are perfect.

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  11. Love this outfit! Thank you for the pleather tips and I couldn't agree more on the quality of pleather is what makes a difference. I just pulled a piece from my stash (kept in an air controlled space) that I had bought at the big box store last year and it was sticky, gooey and delaminating! I've also had poor luck with faux leather that stretches as it can also start delaminating as the backing has more stretch then the pleather itself. Your jeans are awesome! Great job!

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    1. I'm on the lookout for more of this faux leather. Thanks Fauxgetaboutit!

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  12. those pants! fit you like a glove, i love it! great construction as well, but you always kill it! might make me a pair. seems very tedious though

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  13. I love this outfit. I found the blouse pattern on Etsy and just ordered it! I met you at a Hoover Show last year and fell in love with your style and grace. I just wish I could look as good in the faux leather pants as you do.

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    1. Glad you were able to find it. Thank you Lisa!

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