Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe: leather

Faux Leather Belted Shirt Dress!

12:30 PM

I'm sure your first thought is: "Erica, it's hot as hell outside? Why leather, sis?" Because you can wear leather and faux leather all year, even in the scorching hot months. Leather is no warmer than denim, in my opinion. Plus, I have no plans to be standing outside, you know! I move from one air conditioned spot to the next. Now, on to this cute dress...

Nanushka Roberta Faux Leather Belted Dress

It all started when I saw this cute faux leather dress from a brand called Nanushka. They make the best faux leather pieces. They all look amazing. I'd ordered this Powder Blue Faux Leather from Minerva and I knew it would be perfect in replicating this dress.

I used McCall's 8086 and I made several changes. First, I cut a straight hem that stopped mid-thigh.

I shortened the sleeves and drafted a hidden button placket.

I edge stitched all of my seams. And I drafted a belt.

I added a center back seam and I made a full seat adjustment.

I edge stitched these seams also.

Here are some of my favorite tips for working with leather and faux leather:

Faux leather and leather sew basically the same. You’ll need a leather needle. I used a size 16/100. You’ll also need specialty sewing machine feet. When I sew with leather, I like to use a walking foot, a non-stick foot or a rolling foot. When cutting leather, I prefer a rotary cutter and a self-healing mat instead of scissors because I like the clean edge. You also should cut leather on a single layer instead of on the fold.

Also, be mindful that pins can leave holes in leather. You can use them, but be careful and only pin in the seam allowances. Or, you can use Wonderclips or small binder clips. Make sure you transfer all of you markings, but don’t use a tracing wheel. Like pins, tracing wheels can also leave holes. Use chalk, but test on a scrap to see if it will be easily removed with a damp cloth.

You can forgo seam finishing because leather doesn’t fray.

Pressing? Yes! You can press leather and faux leather. BUT, it must be done CAREFULLY and CAUTIOUSLY. Use a piece of muslin, cotton fabric or silk organza as pressing cloth with your iron on a lower setting. Use a scrap piece to test out your adjusted settings.

Faux Leather

McCall's 7906 - Brown Faux Leather Skirt!

8:30 PM

I’ve been using this fashion weight faux leather for a while now and I’m so in love with it. I can’t get enough of it. I’ve bought the black, gold and this is my second time buying it in brown. I’ve made jackets, pants and it was time to make a skirt.

I decided to use McCall’s 7906. I love the high, cinched waisted style. I cut the size 14 at the waist and blended to a size 16. I cut view D, the longest length, which was fine.

But I still needed to make my standard full seat adjustment so that the skirt wouldn’t hike up at the back hem.

The skirt has inseam pockets, belt carriers and a self-belt. And I used these gorgeous Amber Horn Buttons.

A lot of home sewers feel a bit intimidated at the thought of working with leather or faux leather, so I’m going to share some of my favorite tips.

Also, be mindful that pins can leave holes in leather. You can use them, but be careful and only pin in the seam allowances. Or, you can use Wonderclips or small binder clips.

Make sure you transfer all of you markings, but don’t use a tracing wheel. Like pins, tracing wheels can also leave holes. Use chalk, but test on a scrap to see if it will be easily removed with a damp cloth.

You can forgo seam finishing because leather doesn’t fray.

For the hem, I wanted it to be nice and clean with no topstitching. I used Stitch Witchery and fused it.

biker jacket

New Tutorial! Learn to Sew a Moto Jacket!

6:30 AM

Fall 2016

Review: Vogue 1517 | Two-Ways to Wear a Metallic Jacket!

11:30 AM

Bold Colors

Hello to Fall with Mustard and Chocolate!

12:00 PM

I love creating separates that can be mixed and matched throughout my wardrobe and worn over and over. I love clothes that I can get great mileage out of, yet has a bit of unique appeal. Like this amazing top.

This is Vogue 1188. It’s currently out-of-print, but still very much of the moment. Dramatic sleeves are presently trending for this season and these sleeves are definitely bringing the drama. The sleeves is what made me dig this pattern out of my filing cabinet. I wanted something simple, but not a t-shirt. And I wanted sleeve appeal. Our fall temperatures are really mild and I can go without a coat since I drive everywhere and I'm never exposed to the elements, for months into the season. So I don't have to worry about working any fancy oversized sleeves into the arms of coats for a while. So I'm going to enjoy myself with this trend.

This blouse is cut completely on the bias. So I had to be very considerate of that when selecting a fabric. I wanted something that would drape beautifully. I wanted a solid because I didn't want to camoflauge a the lines of these fabulous sleeves. And I was also thoughtful in selecting a trending fall color. I call it sewing kismet and feel that the sewing goddesses have shone down upon me when a fabric is “sew” perfect for a design. And that’s how I feel about gorgeous Mustard Solid Suiting. I know you’re thinking, “Suiting? How does that work for blouse weight?” Simple, it’s a medium weight crepe and perfect for this bias cut. It cut, sewed and pressed like a dream.And it even tucked into my pants without being too bulky. And as a plus, this is one of the hot colors for Pantone Fall 2016 -- Spicy Mustard - 14-0952.

I cut my top in the size 14. It fits perfectly right out of the envelope. But let's talk about these sleeves. When I first saw the pattern, I couldn't really tell what was going on with them. They're probably one of the most uniquely sewn sleeve I've ever made.

The sleeves are sewn in two pieces. Each piece has a sleeve piece and a facing. The facing and sleeve piece are sewn with right sides together. The seam allowance is trimmed down and the right sides are turned out and pressed with the raw edges basted. Each of those pieces are then sewn with wrong sides together and stitched on the indicated line. The sleeve is pressed opened, the raw edges are basted and the sleeve is then set by the flat method and hemmed.

The neckline is finished with a facing. Even as striking as this top is, I still feel like I need one is a bright white!

My DIY leather jeans is the same pattern I've previously use here.

My jeans were inspired by these Rag & Bone leather jeans.

Modified this time to fit the lack of stretch of this most amazing quality of faux fashion leather I’ve come across. I used this Brown Fashion-Weight Faux Leather. I gave the pattern a full-butt adjustment and added a little more room in the thigh and calf areas.

This fabric is perfect for fashion sewing. It wears like genuine leather and has a look and feel of lambskin, if that gives you any indication of what to expect. I compared it to genuine lambskin in my wardrobe and the only difference – it lacks that leather smell. It’s not vinylish or plasticky like a lot of cheap faux leathers. This is the kind that you find in high-end RTW.

And like genuine leather, this fabric works with a jean sewing pattern perfectly. I sewed these to be really fitted. Because just as genuine leather, this fabric relaxes with wearing. And I didn’t want any bagging out.

Sewing Tips!

Use two sewing machines if possible. One threaded with my normal all-purpose sewing thread and a Microtex needle. I used my walking foot. And the second machine was threaded with topstitching thread (regular thread in the bobbin), a topstitch needle and a teflon foot.

For cutting, I used a rotary cutter. I would suggest pattern weights. But if you’re really precise, you can pin within the seam allowances. I sewed these as if I was sewing genuine leather and as I normally would for constructing jeans. I serged my seams because I like a clean inside. And most importantly, even though ironing is NOT recommended, I used my iron. I pressed my seams with my teflon foot on my iron and with a pressing cloth. If you choose to press this fabric, be extremely careful to not EVER allow the iron to actually come in contact with the faux leather.