The dupioni is shiny on one side and dull on the other. I used the shiny for the outside. Sewing the shiny side was about the same as working with any slippery fabric. I used lots of pins during the construction.

Pre-treating

I pre-washed my silk by hand washing it, because that's how I plan to launder this shirt, as I do all of my silk casual pieces. When I pressed the fabric prior to cutting, I used just regular old spray starch. It gives the fabric a crisp hand and makes it easier to cut. A lot of sewers recommend using a spray stabilizer. I've tried that before and I found that it was messy and it makes the fabric too stiff for my liking and you have to wash the garment before you can wear. With the spray starch, it just makes it easier to handle and I didn't feel like the fabric was getting away from me.

Straightening the Grain

When working with silk and other fluid fabrics, you have to "straighten the grain". When you buy fabric off the bolt, no matter how careful the cutter is, the fabric is never cut straight on the grain line. Near the cut edge of the fabric, I always clip into the selvage and tear the fabric across the grain. 

Laying Out and Cutting

I layout my silk and cut my pattern pieces out on a single layer -- never on the fold. If there is a pattern piece that requires cutting on the fold. I just trace it out and cut it in one single piece. I use silk pins to pin my fabric and rotary cutter to get a nice clean edge. 

Marking Silk Fabrics

I always use my Frixion pens. 

Sewing Silk and Fluid Fabrics

When sewing with silk and other fluid fabrics, you have to make sure that you select the appropriate machine foot and needle for your fabric. I always recommend using a walking foot for difficult fabrics. On my Baby Lock Aventura II, it has the Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic Presser Foot Pressure) that detects the thickness of the fabric and it automatically adjust the tension and makes sure that the fabric is feed smoothly. So, I haven't found that I needed my walking foot as of yet. Also, you should be sewing silk fabric with a sharp needle. I use Schmetz Microtex 130/705 H-M 70/10 for a silk such as this one. And for a lightweight silk like a georgette or crepe de chine, you want to shorten your stitch length to 1.5mm - 2mm. Make sure you test all of these things out before sewing on your expensive silk fabric.

Thread
Preferably, you should use silk thread. But I find all-purpose thread to work if that's what you have on hand.

Interfacing
For this shirt and most silk fabrics I work with, I used this very lightweight Off-White Weft Fusible Interfacing. I tested it out and it worked well. I needed to interface the neckband, pocket flaps, cuffs and the epaulets. This particular interfacing doesn't add any bulk or weight to the silk fabric.

Seam Finishing

I recommend using French Seams or you can use your serger.

Pressing

I'm a firm believer in using a silk organza pressing cloth. Silk is a natural fiber, so it can take a lot of high heat and steam. But what it doesn't like is water. Make sure that your iron isn't spitting. Water will create water spots.

I used a narrow hem for this beautifully curved hem.

The only change I made was to add a yoke facing. Anytime I'm sewing a shirt or shirt dress that has a yoke, I always make a facing. I have a tutorial on how to I sew it.

The Classic Button Up Shirt has always been one of the most essential workhorse wardrobe staple in my closet. I create some version of a great white shirt at least once a year. 

This year, it's Kwik Sew 3555, and I'm literally kicking myself for overlooking this amazingly drafted classic shirt for as long as I have. Sometimes, Kwik Sew patterns come across as "matronly". But they have a great selection of basics that every home sewist should have in their sewing arsenal. Basics that you can easily "zhuzh up" or hack.