Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe: fabric

Review: Simplicity 1283 & Vogue 1296 | Navy is the New Black! #BlogLikeCrazy

12:00 AM

Simplicity 1283 & Vogue 1296 - Erica B's DIY Style

I have an affinity for black. I usually have to show self-restraint in order to not stock my sewing studio with black fabric. So when I came across this gorgeous navy blue, I awarded myself a reprieve. I mean, it's dark but it's not black so that makes it okay!

This Mood Fabrics fabulous find, a dark navy woven is from designer Theory. And just as stunning as this fabric is, it's equally unusual. It's a woven with 2-way stretch that feels and sews like a neoprene. It's magical when used on a structured garment as my skirt and also has an incredible drape.

My top is Simplicity 1283. With the mass appeal of this particular pattern line, I was surprised by the lack of pattern reviews when I googled it. I was practically on my own with what to expect. It's a crop top for sure and being that I'm pretty tall with a lot of torso, I added 3 inches to the length. Had I not, I would have had practically a sports bra on my hands because it's that short. Please be aware of that. And this top also has an inch of negative ease. I needed a size 12, but due to the figure hugging design of this top, I went up to the size 14. (Some may need to do a FBA.) But the fit still worked well with my fabric choice. And surprisingly, the sleeves are drafted with a generous amount of length. I didn't have to add any additional length to them. I wanted my version of a crop top to hit at the natural waist and meet at the top of the skirt. It's a really cute design, easy to make, quick to sew with the mock turtle neck style and an invisible zipper closure. It could easily be turned into a longer top or a dress. It's worth having in your collection as a base pattern even if you're not into crop tops.

The pattern design, which is designed for a knit worked well my stretch woven.

My skirt is Vogue 1296. This fabric was the perfect match for this skirt. I love how it works so well for a structuced garment, yet has such an amazing drape all at once. I cut the size 14 for my skirt and added 3" inches to the length. I omitted the lining. The fabric is beefy and opague enough to where it holds its own.

After wearing this outfit which included entering and exiting my vehicle; standing and sitting, it has wonderful recovery.

There was no stretch out or sagging.

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Fabric Trend: Plissé

1:45 PM

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My Fabric Purchases!

2:30 AM

advice

Update...

1:15 AM

Remember I said I *was* going to do my trench coat in the microfiber polyester? Well... see what had happened was... LOL That fabric was bitch to work with. Okay... let me give you some background info on microfiber and a small tutorial in case you ever ~~make the mistake~~ decide to work with it.

Microfiber fabrics are made of high-quality, superfine polyester threads, densely constructed. This density gives the fabric its drape and water and stain resistance for outerwear, although it lacks breathability. The best reason to love microfibers? No static cling.

Cutting & Sewing: To pin or not to pin?
Most performance fabrics can be pinned within the seam allowances without damage, but pins leave permanent holes in coated fabrics, so opt for pattern weights or binder clips where needed. When sewing, you should use Microtex needles because they have a thinner shaft and slimmer point than universal needles. Also, a good choice in thread would be fine embroidery thread.

For microfiber fabrics, choose the presser foot with the flattest bottom, holding the fabric taut against the feed dogs.

Lengthen your stitches slightly for this fabric, to approximately 3.0-3.5 length. Hems are beautiful when done with a coverstitch. Be sure to remove any auxiliary needles from your coverstitch machine, as pinholes will leave a permanent mark in the fabric. If you do not have coverstitch capabilities, use a double row of topstitching for your hems. Lengthen the stitch to 3.5 for this hem stitching. Seam finishes are not necessary to prevent fraying, as the fabric does not ravel. However, you may choose to topstitch your seams to encourage them to remain flat. If so, use the same 3.5 length stitching as for your machine hem. You can finger press the seam open and stitch on each side of the seamline, or you may choose to finger press the seam to one side, trim out the inner layer of the seam allowance, and run one row of topstitching to secure the seam in place.

Buttons and buttonholes will require additional reinforcement, such as a second layer of interfacing. Again, avoid the use of heat on this fabric.

You can definitely feel the resistance will attempting to pin this fabric. Make sure to use new, sharp pins. And handsewing... forget that!

Interfacing
If a fabric is already coated, a fusible will make a mess. Coatings and fusibles don't mix; use a sew-in instead. Test your fabric before fusing any interfacing. Some of these fabrics do not respond well to the application of heat; in these cases, a sew-in interfacing will be necessary. Choose cotton muslin or batiste, washed to eliminate the possibility of further shrinkage, and cut it using the same grainlines as the rainwear fabric. Baste the interfacing to the rainwear fabric with dots of glue stick. (The school variety glue stick works fine.)

What caused me to dislike this fabric was the fact that I could not press it. This garment has too many details that require pressing to just sew and go. I tested scraps of fabric to see if I could apply low heat... I could, but it did give the type of finished look I would want. When I turned up the heat, it scorched the fabric as I expected it to. I decided to just scrap it and start from scratch. I'm using a beautiful blue satin, that will give me more of the "look" of what I originally wanted. Sometimes, you should just follow your initial instinct. I'm *still* deciding on buttons (I hate picking those out) and as soon as they arrive, you'll be the first to know. Meanwhile, I have other small projects in the works and I'll be sharing those this week.

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Happy Labor Day!

6:15 PM

dresses

Sunday Sewing Randomness

2:15 AM

advice

Sheer Knowledge

12:00 AM

I've read and heard so many sewers say that sewing sheers (i.e. chiffon, georgette, light-weight organza, batiste) is difficult. I say, "No it's not"! That is IF you know the right techniques.

What I've found most challenging with chiffon and georgette is the laying-out process. Sheers are slippery and they tend to crawl about while you are trying to handle them. What I do is use an underlay. I do this by laying the sheer fabric on top of an old sheet or muslin fabric (anything you don't really care about) and cutting them together with a rotary cutter. The sheer fabric clings to the other fabric and makes cutting a lot easier. Also, misting with spray sizing or spray starch has worked for me too!

For my seams, I use a "scant" french seam. I do this by: (1) pinning WRONG sides together. Stitch 3/8" from the edges on the right side of the fabric. (2) Trim seam allowance to 1/16". Fold RIGHT sides together, with stitching line exactly on the fold. Press flat. (3) Stitch 1/8" from fold. This step encases the cut edges. Check the right side to be sure no raveled threads are showing. Press seam to one side.

For the collar, I interfaced it with Palmer/Pletsch PerfectFuse Sheer in black. I stitched the facing to the collar with a 3/8" seam and pressed the other end of the facing under 3/8". I stitched the collar to the neck edge using a 3/8" seam allowance and trimmed the seam. I pressed the seam towards the collar and slipstitched the facing to the neck edge.

The sleeves are cut on the bias and for the hems, I used a narrow machine stitch. I did this by staystitching on the wrong side of the fabric - 1/4" from where the hem will be. Pressing the seam allowance toward the the inside along the staystitch line and sewing along the fold line to the left of the staystitch line. I took a pair of small, sharp scissors and trimmed the seam allowance close to the stitching (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CUT INTO THE GARMENT FABRIC!!! Ask me how I know). I then folded the narrow hem toward the inside of the garment and stitched the final row to the left of the last stitching line. I used this method also for the hem of the garment.

BTW, this is Simplicity 4112... I'll have finished project pictures later.

I hope this helps those who have not or have been reluctant to sew with a sheer. This is what I do. If some of you more experienced sewers have better methods or something to add, please feel free.