Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe: jacket

Champagne Lurex Suit!

11:00 AM

Lurex Suit - Erica Bunker DIY Style x Zelouf Fabrics

I'm having an absolute blast with my new relationship with Zelouf Fabrics! I love having the opportunity to work with fabrics I've never seen before and being able to stretch my creativity.

This fabric is Lexi Lurex Mesh Bonded Knit. I used the Champagne color. That particular color only has a few yards left, but there are other wonderful colors to choose from.

When I ordered this fabric, I knew I wanted to make a suit... it just screamed suit to me. Vogue 1716 was my original choice. But I wasn't sure how well this fabric would tailor and that jacket has welt pockets with flaps.

I reached way back in my stash and pulled Butterick 5428 (it's long out of print). I've been wanting to make that jacket for years.

I lengthened this jacket by 7" at the waist and just added width to the bottom. I hated where the jacket would've hit had I not made that alteration.

Longer jackets just look better on me instead of one that sits right on top of the hips.

I interfaced the under collar and the facings. Normally, I would interface the entire body of a jacket with a lightweight interfacing. But I wanted this jacket to feel more drapey and I really wanted to play off of the beautiful pleated detail.

I love a jacket that has back princess seams. Makes altering so easy. I made my usual swayback adjustment. The only thing I wish I had done was create a back vent. I didn't think about until I was actually at a point of trying it on.

I used extra large coat hook and eyes for my closure. On the pattern, it instructed for a bow to be made and handstitched onto the right side of the jacket at the waist. I tried it that way and it looked pretty silly. It would never hang straight and stay that way. So, I just took that piece and cut it in half and sewed it to each side of the front to just make a tie.

The jacket is fully-lined and I used a pale pink lining that I had in my stash.

I wanted a plain pair of wide legged pants, because the jacket is clearly the star of this show.

I used McCall's 7443 (currently out of print). The pants are plain front with back darts and a side zipper. I was surprised at how short they're drafted. I had to add 6" of length and I should've gone longer than that. The pattern is drafted with a 2" hem allowance. I could only do a 5/8" so that they would be long enough to wear with heels.

I think a natural reaction to a fabric like this is to make a dress or a skirt. I've been trying to be more proactive in thinking outside of my sewing box. And I'm glad I did, because I love the way this turned out.

Baby Lock

Adding an Embroidery Design to a Pattern with Baby Lock Sewing!

3:00 PM

When I purchased this Italian Black/Off-White Stretch Cotton Print, I bought a large cut of it because I knew I wanted to make a two-piece.

The jacket is McCall's 7730 and the pants are Simplicity 8655. I cut the size 14, D cup in the jacket. I like the style of the jacket, I felt that the lines were a little plain. So, I decided it could use a little zhooshing up.

I selected this design -- Midnight Blooms from Urban Threads.

On my Baby Lock Aventura II, I adjusted the colors so that they would show up on my fabric and compliment the print.

I made a test design and decided where I wanted to place it and using my 6.25" x 10.25" embroidery hoop, I hooped the jacket fronts prior to sewing the darts so that it would lay flat. And I flipped the design orientation the opposite way for the other side. Instead of using stabilizer, I interfaced the entire fronts.

This project required 14 colors. So, if you're just starting out in embroidery, I suggest you buy a thread kit, like I did, to get you started. I bought the New Brothread 63 Spools Color Kit from Amazon.

I like the way the design turned out. I wanted to do more and get really creative with the placement. But sometimes, less is more. I didn't want to overdo it and end up trashing the whole project. So, I decided that as I get use to adding embroidered designs, I'll gradually become more playful with placement.

For the inside of the jacket, I lined it in an Antique White China Silk/Habotai from Mood Fabrics.

This was a really easy jacket to bag a lining on, even with the vent. I added an embroidered stitch to the lining as well.

I didn't want the sleeve flounce to collapse, because I think that would take away from the design. I added horsehair braid to the hem.

I absolutely love the fit of these high-waisted cigarette pants (women print pants). I don't think I'll EVER wear pants that don't come up to the natural waist ever again. They're comfortable and you don't get muffin top or butt crack. Who wouldn't want that? I cut the size 16 and lengthened the hem by 3". They're very fitted at the waist. I found I needed to let out the center front and the center back seams a little bit because I wanted to give my invisible zipper a littler more ease.