My sweet sewing friend Dibs Maxwell, gifted me this gorgeous green wool crepe from her store Selvedge and Bolts. The fabric is so gorgeous that I wanted to make something that I would enjoy wearing often, and this fabric is lightweight enough to go from fall to spring.

I decided to go with Simplicity 8693. I can't believe I slept on this pattern for so long. I bought it when it was initially released, but never got around to it. And it turned out to be perfect for this cut of fabric.

Pre-shrinking 100% Wool Crepe: Now, you can spend the big bucks and take your 100% wool crepe to the dry cleaners and have them steam it for you. Or, if you're like me -- throw it in the dryer with a wet towel. Always serge the raw edges first. Make sure it's a well-used towel, so that you won't get lint all over your beautiful cut of wool. Wet the towel thoroughly with hot water... soaked all the way through, but not dripping. Set your dryer to high for about 40 minutes. And lay your fabric flat to cool.

I cut the size 16, to insure that it would hang properly off the shoulder. I didn't need to make any adjustments at all to this. It was perfect straight from the envelope.

It's the button sleeve detail for me! This is what sold me on this pattern and what makes it unique.

These are functioning buttonholes!

The front and the back of the pattern is exactly the same. And the neckline is incredibly flattering.

This top is versatile enough to work with jeans and a dressier trouser.

Sometimes the fabric comes first. I found this beautiful, lightweight Glacier Gray Heathered Stretch Suiting from Mood Fabrics.com. I knew it would be perfect for spring and that I wanted to make a suit with it.

First came the pants. I'd recently discovered DP Studio LE 302 Trouser. I'm always on the lookout for a great pants pattern that I can create over and over again and this one is pretty darn good. I needed a straight leg pattern because I wanted pants that I could wear with either heels or flats. That way I can get more mileage out of my pants. 

These pants are beautifully drafted. They're high-waist with the front pockets that extend into the center front that I've grown to absolutely love! 

I didn't sew the complete fly situation. I tend to skip that part a lot on trousers and only do it on jeans.

There is also one single-welt back pocket.

The pants have pintuck creases and inseam slits. This pattern was pretty good right out of the packaging. I cut the size 44, I added 3 inches to the length. This is a European pattern, so the seam allowance is 1cm. The only thing I would change next time is to create a contoured waistband. This one has a straight waist and I had very minor gaping at the center back that I quickly fixed by adding darts.

This jacket pattern has been in my pattern collection for 12 years. Since off-the-shoulder isn't going anywhere anytime soon, I thought I'd pull this jacket out. I've been seeing similar style blazers for a few months now, so that's how this one got back on my radar.

This jacket is Vogue 2893. It's been out-of-print now for many, many moons.

It's from the Donna Karan Collection Spring 2005.

I couldn't find any pictures from anyone that had actually sewn this pattern. I googled and searched for pattern reviews...nothing. The only other way I could get a glimpsed of what it looked like was from an old magazine ad.

The details of this jacket were crazy, spectacular and off-the-chain (do they still say that??)! This is why I was so drawn to it. Sometimes I want to sew something up quick, and other times I want things that will entertain me while I binge watch a complete series on Netflix. 

How often do you find suiting fabric juxtaposed with athletic mesh and a corset-style laced-up back? Like never! So, I was really excited to be able to add something so interesting to my wardrobe.  

Another thing that I loved is the decorative zig-zag stitching. I used the #46 on my BERNINA 350 PE. The athletic mesh was already in my stash. 

I really love both of these pieces and I can't wait to break them up and wear them separately. This jacket will be so fire with a pair of black distressed jeans for a night out. And these pale gray pants are going to be worn with everything. They're the perfect neutral that my closet has been missing.

Happy New Year! This is my last completed garment of 2017, McCall's 7547.

I haven't worn a pair of overalls in years! I remember having a fabulous pair of Guess overalls when I was in high school in the mid-80s. They were a real "it" item. And I think the next time I wore overalls, they were a pair of maternity ones, and that was over 20 years ago. I've talked before about how jumpsuits and anything one-piece was simply not an option prior to me sewing my own wardrobe.

My fabric is a Dark Brown Stretch Cotton Velveteen. The color is really odd. In warm light, it looks like a dark brown or dark pewter. But in cool white light, like what's in my studio, it's looks charcoal. And also, this velveteen is super stretchy... lots of crosswise give.

I cut the size 14 in the bodice and added an inch to the length. I could've added a little more because I ended up taking it apart and using only a scant 1/4" seam allowance. I also added 2 inches to the length of the straps. I found that they had no ease. At least with a pair of ready-to-wear overalls, you get adjustable straps.

I cut the pants in a size 16 and I added 4 inches to the length and still ended up only using a 5/8" hem.

The were too big in the waist so I took the darts in.

I lengthened the front pockets by an inch. 

The overalls are closed with a side laped zipper and a hook and eye.

My top is McCall's 7686, view C with the other sleeve added on. My fabric is a Pewter Jersey Knit Covered in Circle and Baby Sequins.

I can't promise that y'all won't see an evening gown or two this year, but for now I'm really enjoying making cute everyday clothes. I was so busy the past year with trips to the garden center and Home Depot, that I felt like I spent so much time in workout clothes. So I'm making a concerted effort to get dressed and start back looking like "me" again!

So, it's been a while since I've sewn anything for Mikaela. We've both been super busy. But I was determined to get her something made before she left for school. We're going to call this dress a birthday present since her birthday was at the end of July. Can y'all believe my sweet baby girl is 20 years old?! Where has time gone?

I wanted to make her something girly, cute, youthful and perfect for these last summer days.

I was inspired by this Caroline Constas Apollonia Dress which retails for $495.

For this dress, I used McCall's 7563 as my base pattern. I only needed 2 pattern pieces, the front/back and the sleeve of view D. Shirring creates stretch, which creates shrinkage. So you pattern should be 1.5 times your normal size. For example, Mikaela has a bust size of 34". So the pattern's bust size should be 51".

I found that 20 rows of stitching was enough to cover the bust area for an empire waist. If you're smaller than her, maybe 15 rows and if you're larger 25 (or more).

I created 20 rows of stitching also for the sleeves.

I also modified the sleeve by created a tiered effect and finishing with a minuscule narrow hem, using my BERNINA Narrow Straight Stitch Hemmer #62.

I love the way the sleeves turned out.

I finished the neckline simply by serging.

And hemmed the dress with a 5/8" hem.

The fabric is Cotton Seersucker from Joann Fabrics.

This was such a fulfilling unselfish-sewing project, because she is so in love with this dress!

I've written a How to Create Shirring with Elastic Thread Tutorial on BERNINA's We All Sew Blog. Go see how to do it!