This dress had been cut out and waiting to be sewn for most of summer. So, now it's become a fall dress! It's the True Bias Calvin Wrap Dress that is drafted in such a flattering and enhancing way. 

My fabric is a poly crepe print that cut, sews and pressed beautifully. The pressing part is vitally important because there is a lot of bias binding that has to be created. And if your fabric doesn't press well, it will definitely impact the look of this dress.

According to the instructions, the pattern is drafted for someone 5'5" with a C cup.  I'm 5'9" with a DD cup, and this is the fit with no FBA and 1" added at the waist and 1" added at the hem. So, this dress has a generous amount of fabric at the bust and is drafted long.

This is the second dress recently that I've made where I've had to create a lot of bias binding. And on this one, it's one of my favorite details.

Sometimes in life and sewing, you need a do-over. And that's what I needed with this pattern. I would often see it in my pattern cabinet and think how it's such a pretty pattern but how it didn't work for me. It's amazing how we tell ourselves things and they become facts. Because it's not that the pattern didn't work for me... it's the fact that I just didn't sew it well -- at all.

I originally made this dress way back in 2006. It was my very first time ever sewing with a jersey knit. And y'all! I admittedly didn't know what the fuck I was doing! I stretched the hell out of the neckline. And look at that wonky, wavy hemline. But at the time, I was so proud of myself for one, tackling a Vogue Pattern. Back in the day, people would always warn you away from Vogues, because they were supposedly "too hard". And two, working with slinky jersey knit. I was definitely treading in deep water. That experience left me even to this day with a negative experience regarding sewing with knits. I still claim that knits aren't my favorite thing to sew. And I know this is the reason why.

This pattern is Vogue 7898 and it's long out-of-print, but the style is still pretty relevant. Wrap dresses never go out of style and asymmetrical hemlines are still so chic.

My fabric is this Pink Orbs Printed Cotton Jersey from Mood Fabrics. When I posted this dress on my Instagram account, I was asked about what skills have I learned in the last 13 years to redeem myself? Well, here are my some of my sewing with knit tips: 

The wrap tie is held with a D-ring.

I just want novice sewers to take from this that even though when you first start out and you end up with undesirable outcomes, just keep going. The more you sew, the more sewing you see and the more you read about sewing, it'll all fall into place.

The neckline of the bodice is finished with a facing. I used the selvage edge of the fabric because it was pretty wide and also has no sequin.

I've never been the biggest fan of self-belts, so I omitted this one. I used a belt that is a perfect shade match. And I can also pair the dress with a lighter or darker colored belt as well.

It goes without saying that I have a newfound love wrap-style dresses. I love how simple they are and how easy they are to sew. And most importantly, how flattering they are. So don't be surprised if you see a few more of these styles popping up in the near future.

I've been really having an eye for vintage patterns lately.  I especially like the ones from the 1970s.  This one is dated 1980, so it still has that late 70s vibe.

This pattern is Simplicity 9704 - Jonathan Hitchcock for Reuben Thomas front wrap dress with pleated front closing skirt and curved hemline. Tie neckline.

I knew that I wanted to make this dress in a silk crepe, so when I started my search of fabrics I lucked up on this gorgeous Ralph Lauren Dark Blue (more like cobalt) Polka Dot Silk Crepe from MoodFabrics.com.  The hand of this fabric is incredible. 

For my vintage pattern, I used the size 14 -- there is only a single size in the envelope.  The size seems to fall more in line with a modern size 12.  And I was glad of that because I didn't have to make a single alteration to the pattern.   

Silk crepe is my favorite fabric and I live in silk pieces during the spring and summer.  And this fabric is exceptional.  The weight of it made it so easy to cut.  And I sewed it as usual with a Microtex needle. 

The bodice is self-lined and the skirt is not.  The skirt is sewn at the center back and I used a French seam.  The sides of the skirt are shaped with curved darts.  And I used small snaps for closures.  I also added one to the center front of the bodice to hold it together to prevent a major wardrobe malfunction.

Since the inside shows, I'm glad I made a French seam.  And the curved hem is done with a narrow hem and creates a beautiful drape.  This pattern was so easy to make, I feel I will make another one before summer is over.

This is Vogue 1384 - Donna Karan Collection.  Even though in reality this is simply a "wrap dress", it was something that stood out about this design:  bias-cut and self-lined.  Now, doesn't that just sound interesting? Well, it does to me!

I used a heavyweight silk georgette from Mood Fabrics for this project.  The pattern pieces are cut on the true bias, on a single layer.  I used 100% silk thread; a Microtex 70/10 needle and a 2.0 mm stitch length. 

I cut the 16 and graded out to the 18 at the hips.  I went up a size (I would normally cut a 14 and grade to a 16) because this dress is made of silk.  I didn't want to have "drag lines" and I didn't want to cause pulling at the seams.  I added an inch at the waist and lengthened the rest by 2".  

As many of you already know that when you sew anything cut on the bias, you have to allow it to have for 24 hours before hemming.  And even after that, I still feel like this dress may be "growing".

For closures, this dress uses two 5/8" snaps.  I covered mine with fabric and here's how:

Being that this dress is "self-lined", I left my seams unfinished.  With the exception of the sleeves and the armholes.  I used my serger.  I had ever intention of using French seams, but I was watching a movie and mindlessly sewing and I forgot!  But nevertheless, the serged seams worked out fine.

Note:  I also added a tiny snap at the center front.  There is no way this dress is going to stay in place without one.  And I really hate when people add pins!

This fabric which feels great inside and out is extremely luxurious.  Not one that you would want to have to apply the seam ripper.  And also, make sure you have to hang nails.  It pulls very easily.  So make sure if you work with this type of fabric, that you don't snag it!

Being that this is a wrap dress, I may or may not make this one again.  What I do love most about this is that unlike many other patterns for wrap dress and there are plenty, this one is designed for a luxurious woven fabric.  I could really see this one lengthened into a gown for a special occasion dress.