Review: Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt!

11:00 AM

Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt! -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I love beautiful silk shirts. They just up the ante when worn with a pair of jeans. It's one of my all-time favorite go-to casual looks.
Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt! -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!
When I saw Mimi's pattern - Simplicity 8830, I knew I'd either be making it in silk or a tissue weight linen (similar to hers on the cover). I'd already purchased this Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette from Mood Fabrics for a dress project. I could never find a lining fabric that was right for it, so I put it aside. And it turned out to be perfect for this shirt. 
Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt! -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!
The details of this shirt are just perfect. It reminds me of shirts by the brand Equipment. I cut the size 16, to ensure that it would be big and room, without being sloppy. I sewed it straight from envelope. 

How I Work With Silk Fabrics

Pre-treating
I pre-washed my silk by hand washing it, because that's how I plan to launder this shirt, as I do all of my silk casual pieces. When I pressed the fabric prior to cutting, I used just regular old spray starch. It gives the fabric a crisp hand and makes it easier to cut. A lot of sewers recommend using a spray stabilizer. I've tried that before and I found that it was messy and it makes the fabric too stiff for my liking and you have to wash the garment before you can wear. With the spray starch, it just makes it easier to handle and I didn't feel like the fabric was getting away from me.

Straightening the Grain
When working with silk and other fluid fabrics, you have to "straighten the grain". When you buy fabric off the bolt, no matter how careful the cutter is, the fabric is never cut straight on the grain line. Near the cut edge of the fabric, I always clip into the selvage and tear the fabric across the grain. 

Laying Out and Cutting
I layout my silk and cut my pattern pieces out on a single layer -- never on the fold. If there is a pattern piece that requires cutting on the fold. I just trace it out and cut it in one single piece. I use silk pins to pin my fabric and rotary cutter to get a nice clean edge. 

Marking Silk Fabrics
I always use my Frixion pens

Sewing Silk and Fluid Fabrics
When sewing with silk and other fluid fabrics, you have to make sure that you select the appropriate machine foot and needle for your fabric. I always recommend using a walking foot for difficult fabrics. On my Baby Lock Aventura II, it has the Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic Presser Foot Pressure) that detects the thickness of the fabric and it automatically adjust the tension and makes sure that the fabric is feed smoothly. So, I haven't found that I needed my walking foot as of yet. Also, you should be sewing silk fabric with a sharp needle. I use Schmetz Microtex 130/705 H-M 70/10 for a silk such as this one. And for a lightweight silk like a georgette or crepe de chine, you want to shorten your stitch length to 1.5mm - 2mm. Make sure you test all of these things out before sewing on your expensive silk fabric.

Thread
Preferably, you should use silk thread. But I find all-purpose thread to work if that's what you have on hand.

Interfacing
For this shirt and most silk fabrics I work with, I used this very lightweight Off-White Weft Fusible Interfacing. I tested it out and it worked well. I needed to interface the neckband, pocket flaps, cuffs and the epaulets. This particular interfacing doesn't add any bulk or weight to the silk fabric.

Seam Finishing
I recommend using French Seams or you can use your serger.

Pressing
I'm a firm believer in using a silk organza pressing cloth. Silk is a natural fiber, so it can take a lot of high heat and steam. But what it doesn't like is water. Make sure that your iron isn't spitting. Water will create water spots.
Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt! -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I used a narrow hem for this beautifully curved hem.
Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt! -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!
The only change I made was to add a yoke facing. Anytime I'm sewing a shirt or shirt dress that has a yoke, I always make a facing. I have a tutorial on how to I sew it.
These are my beautiful buttons I found at Joann's.
Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt! -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!
The shirt has the epaulets that I've been craving lately with my utility obsession.
Simplicity 8830 - Fuchsia Silk Double Georgette Shirt! -- Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I'm so happy that I decided to make a shirt with this beautiful fabric instead of the dress I was initially planning. I know I'm going to get a lot wear out of this!

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18 comments

  1. This is a great looking shirt. Especially, how the back gives good coverage of the posterior. A shirt that you could easily dress up or go casual. Great tips on how to see with silk type fabrics. As always, You Rock!!

    Kimberly Wilkes

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  2. Thanks for the link. I have never been able to get the buritto method to work. This is so much better. It's a gorgeous shirt.

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    1. The buritto method never worked for me. I'm a press as you go type of person, and I can't see rolling up something that so perfectly pressed like that. Thanks Nancy!

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  3. Love this color! Thanks for the excellent tips.

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  4. Thank you for the tips on how to sew with silk! From your post, I feel confident to take on this type of fabric.

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  5. Beautiful work, and such a stunning color!

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  6. Pink is definitely your color..
    I'm sew frighten of silk, maybe one day I'll get my feet wet.

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    Replies
    1. You should definitely try. Pick an easy project with very few seams and details for your first project. Thank you!

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  7. Looks amazing. Thank you for all these tips!

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  8. Gorgeous! Love the color and it's beautiful on you!

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