So, y'all have been asking me for years to do these step-by-step tutorials, so I have! I started on YouTube last year doing video techniques that I found interesting that I wasn't seeing in any commercial patterns instruction that I knew you guys would like. Going into 2019, I decided I'm going to branch out and do full-blown tutorials -- well, more like courses. There are simple steps that can elevate the look of a garment that I want to share. I want to encourage more home sewist to "level up" their sewing and know that every thing doesn't have to be rushed through and sewn in a single afternoon session. It's okay to take your time and put in a little extra work.
Made at home doesn't have to look "homemade".
Am I an expert? That's subjective. But what I am is someone that spends absurd amounts of time sewing various garments in a multitude of fabrics. And that makes me highly experienced. I've followed the pattern instructions, I've studied different reference books by different authors and I've picked up so many amazing techniques over the years. This has allowed me to create my own methods of putting it all together and creating my own way of doing things that works. So now I get to share my knowledge and experience with you, with my tried-and-true methods.
My inspiration jackets:
My inspiration jackets:
Stella McCartney Milly Tweed Blazer
For my pattern choice, I had to reach way back in my pattern collection. I wanted a longer style double-breasted blazer. The only current alternative is Burda Style 09/2018 #117. I own this one and one of these days I'll feel like tracing and adding seam allowances! But for now, I went with an easier option, McCall's 8638. It's from 1997, and the wide shoulders sure did prove that. I had to cut them down to this decade by removing 1 1/2" off each. But other than that, this one fit the bill with all of the tailored jacket details I wanted. This particular cut is all over the place right now. Maybe by Fall 2019, the pattern companies will have caught up. And when they do, remember this tutorial is available!
The only thing I would've done different was add a back vent. And I'll probably go ahead and make functioning surgeon's cuffs. Mine are mitered, but I just didn't go with functioning buttonholes.
My favorite detail are the welt pockets with flaps. I'd mentioned a few weeks ago how welt pockets were one of my least favorite sewing things to do.
But once I taught myself a fail-proof method for both double welts and single welts, there was no looking back.
My fabric is Pale Gray/Beige Solid Suiting (6% Polyester, 50% Viscose, 44% Wool) from Mood Fabrics. My lining is this Burberry-esque Anti-Static Plaid Lining from Jo-Ann.
One of the key things I talk about is pressing and pressing tools. One of the main ones I recommend that a lot of people may be skipping is a Pressing Cloth. I have the one from Dritz and I also use a cut of silk organza.
In the tutorial, I will teach you step-by-step how to construct a tailored jacket with tips and guidance applicable to any blazer pattern of your choice. In this premium tutorial, you will get:
- Fabric suggestions
- Places to interface and stabilize that the pattern companies don’t tell you
- Pressing tips
- Double Welt Pocket with or without Flap Tutorial
- How to Created a Mitered Corner
- How to Sew a Two-Piece Sleeve with Vent
- How to Sew a Peak Collar
You can access the tutorial here: