M5766 Update #3

12:00 AM

The lining is in! I used Bemberg (100% acetate). It feels great, it was very easy to sew and it took a lot of heat from my gravity feed iron. When I was doing my research on coats, this is the fabric that I saw most often in RTW coats. I used the bagged lining technique and the sleeve lining was set by hand, using slipstitches. The lining hem can be done two ways: (1) free-hanging or (2) slipstitching the edge of the lining to the coat hem. I chose option 2.

Here is the notched lapels:
The upper collar:

And the under collar:

Whenever two or more layers of fabric are held together in a curved position, the upper layer must be slightly larger than the under layer to allow for curve, or the turn of cloth. The drafting of this pattern was perfect and did not need to be adjusted. Also, as you see, the under collar is drafted in two pieces and cut on the bias. Why on the bias? Because it controls the roll of the upper collar. Why two pieces? So that the grain will be the same in both collar points.

Here is one of my favorite details that drew me to this coat... the sleeve:

And here is the back of the lining:

As you see, the back of the lining has a center back pleat. This ensures that there is enough ease across the shoulders and allows for differences in the garment layers. I also added a hang chain.

All that's left to do now is add the buttons and snaps...

****ETA: The commenting problem has been resolved! Sorry for the inconvenience!

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  1. Anonymous4:37 AM

    Noticed you said you didn't use pattern instructions but referred to your books. What books did you use to construct? Am a beginner so always on the look out for book recommendations. It will be some time before I will be making coats mind lol

  2. If you go to my FAQs, you'll see a link to my sewing library. I have a variety of couture and tailoring books. Take your pick!

  3. Anonymous2:47 PM

    Thanks . . .


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