It's the end of August and I'm wrapping up summer sewing. This will probably be my last summer dress of the season. This year, I probably made more spring and summer dresses than I ever have. I haven't done a count, but it sure seems like it. It was just my 'thing' this year.
This dress is Vogue 9311. Compared to a lot of the other dresses I've been making this summer, this one is practically minimal.
For this dress, I cut the straight size 14. I did lengthen skirt pieces by 3 inches. My fabric is this luscious Kelly Green Double Cotton Gauze from Mood Fabrics.com.
This fabric is exceptional. It's not like the cheap gauze fabric you may often see. It's two layers fused together. So, it has a good weight and it's not translucent. And the texture is beautiful.
I knew the original design of the bodice was not going to work for me. It's very similar to Vogue 9253. Those low-cut, sternum-baring styles just don't work with my bustline... at all. I don't make a lot of statements on what body types look good in what. But in my opinion, that sternum-baring style looks best on those in the "Itty Bitty Titty Committee". If I had small boobs, I'd rock every top plunging to the belly button. I love that style... but just not on me.
So, I stitched the center front up 3 inches. It's still low-cut with good decolletage, but bra-friendly and not all wide open.
I typically don't like empire waist styles. The remind me of the available clothes that I wore over 20 years ago, the 3 times I was pregnant. All of the maternity dresses back in the day were empire waist and tied in the back.
So, I was pleasantly surprised to see that even in that style, this one has a nice skimming fit along the waistline. But I still tied it to the front.
It has pockets! I love pockets and they make me happy every time I sew them into a dress. Sometimes I just need a place to put my phone while I do something else with my hands. They come in handy.
For the ruffle flounce, I used my gathering foot. It's the truth and it stays coming to the rescue... I'm not about the string pulling life.
I love this dress. And plan to make the long sleeve version for this fall in some great fabric and awesome fall color.
My obsession with pattern-hacking for the perfect summer dress continues! See how I used McCall's 7789 and New Loo 6346 to create this look over at the Mood Sewing Network blog!
I always thought rick rack trim was for crafty projects or children’s clothes. Over the last year or so, rick rack has gotten a very glam makeover.
I’ve been seeing it used on a lot of high-end designer clothes, and also on accessories such as handbags and shoes.
I decided to use McCall's 7780, because it has really good details that would highlight the way I wanted to use the rickrack trim.
I started with cutting the size 14. I didn't find that I needed to make any major adjustments.
My fabric is pinstripe cotton shirting from Jo-Ann's.
My tutorial for How to Sew Rickrack Trim is up on BERNINA's WeAllSew Blog.
With fall quickly approaching and all of the new pattern releases rolling out and I'm sitting patiently waiting on all of the September issues to hit the stands, I've been compiling what I want to sew this upcoming season.
Savile Row
I'll be adding more menswear swagger to my wardrobe this fall using classic Savile Row fabrics such as houndstooth, herringbone, glen plaid and tweed. These fabrics are timeless... I can't even count the number of times I've worn my houndstooth coat! It's also grown-up and sophisticated.
Colorful Plaid
I don't have a lot of plaid in my wardrobe, especially colorful plaid. But this coat is a favorite. It's one of those pieces that makes me happy when I'm wearing it. It's so cheerful. Every fall, I have the intention of using more plaid, and hopefully this year, I'll add at least a tartan skirt to my collection.
Animal Print
It goes without saying that animal print will be in my fall wardrobe. It's a staple. Here are some of my favorites from the past: leopard coat; snakeskin print jersey dress; zebra print pencil skirt; mixed animal print dress.
Pleats
Pleats have always been one of those trends that can go "cutesy" or "precious" really quick. Even though I love a sophisticated and ladylike look, I have to be careful with this one, by putting my own spin on it. I would love to add another pleated looks to my wardrobe. I love the pleated sleeve top, it was one of my favorites from last year. And this pleated skirt was an unusual make for me as well.
70's Suede
I've used faux suede a few times in my sewing history and it's such a fun fabric to work with. And It's a lot easier to come by and shop for than buying a real hide. Suede always reminds me for the 1970s, like these tan skirt and the black one. I would love to add perhaps a dress or a jacket to my wardrobe.
Leather Dress
I've never made a full leather dress before, only this one that is made from wool with lambskin leather panels. Lambskin hides are so small and quite expensive that I may have to treat myself to a Christmas gift of a leather dress this year!
What are you looking forward to sewing this upcoming season?
Ombre, sequins, fringe, and seasonal patterns are fun to play with when it comes to choosing outfits. The downside is that many of them don’t stand a chance against the test of time.
When you’re out of ideas, sometimes the answer is to go back to wardrobe essentials.
Plain White Shirt
image: Pexels
The plain white shirt is the holy grail of closets. It’s the most versatile piece of clothing anyone can own. Whether it’s a classic tee, crisp button-down, or fresh summer linens, there are tons of different ways to style it. You can pair a silk blouse with a pencil skirt, embellish with a few accessories, and finish with your favorite pumps for a sophisticated work outfit. If you’re aiming for casual, tuck in a cotton top with skinny jeans or textured bottoms. You can’t go wrong with a plain white top.
Blazer
image: Pexels
You don’t have to attend a work function to rock a blazer. Try a monochrome boxy cut blazer over a pair of sleek trousers and tight-fitting blouse. This look is a balance between casual and professional. You can also wear a bright red or printed blazer over a midi or maxi skirt for something a little more exciting. Pastel colors with sleeves rolled up to the elbows scream sophisticated summer attire. You can bust out your plain white button-up blouse as the base of your outfit for a chic and refined look.
Dark Washed Jeans
image: Pexels
Denim is a look that never goes out of vogue, but dark washed jeans are more flattering than light-colored ones. It’s also easier to style than a pair of ripped stone washed denim jeans. A pair of good-fitting jeans should cinch a little above the hips, doesn't create wrinkles, and cuts off right above the ankle. You can dress up your most comfortable skinny jeans with a tailored jacket, or dress it down with a halter top and open-toe sandals. Whatever the occasion, a great pair of dark washed jeans will have your back… and your booty.
Wrap Dress
image: Unsplash
Remember my halter wrap dress from the 80s, Simplicity 9704? It might be vintage but it is always fashionable! The silhouette of wrap dresses are universally flattering and easily adaptable to current trends. In other words, it’s a modern classic. Diane Von Furstenberg’s original creation came with a V-neck line, a tie waist, and A-line skirt. The bodice does a great job of accentuating a woman’s curves. It can be worn anywhere, for any occasion, and best of all, for any age.
Little Black Dress
image: Pexels
If you want to channel your inner Audrey Hepburn or Princess Diana, a little black dress is the right way to go. The hemline is typically above the knee or mid-thigh but be careful not to go too overboard with how 'little' it is! A great LBD is simple, elegant, and most of all, versatile. You can accessorize and layer the dress for a unique look or simply pare it down to the basics. Add a tasteful pair of pearl earrings, a clutch, and single sole minimal heels—it’s a knockout look.
Trends come and go but these five clothing staples never go out of style. Start looking for these pieces right away—or better yet, try sewing them to get the exact fit and style you want!
My summer dress streak continues. This time, it's a Tie-Shoulder Dress.
This dress was inspired by the Saloni Ruth Polka Dot Midi Dress.
I couldn't find the exact fabric. But I found this Ivory and Black Abstract Printed Polyester Crepe, that kind of looks like the polka dots are running off the dress. Which is really kind of cool and close enough.
For this look, I used McCall's 7632 for the bodice. I used the single shoulder look last year for a jumpsuit, so I already had it in my collection. I used Vogue 8615 for the A-line skirt. It's currently out-of-print, but I'm sure it can be found on Amazon, Etsy or Ebay.
For the bodice, I cut the 14 and I needed to make adjustments.
For the bodice, I cut the 14 and I needed to make adjustments.
I added one inch to the length and made a one inch FBA. I was left with a huge waist dart and I worked out the underarm bust dart and redrafted the pattern.
For the skirt, I was unsure about the size, so I just cut the size 16.
It was a little big and I just took it in at the center back.
The bodice is self-lined obviously, because of the shoulder ties. For the skirt, I used a rayon lining fabric that I had in my stash.
The tied sleeve detail at the shoulder really makes this dress. And this fabric is the perfect wait.
This is another amazing dress for my summer collection.
Once again, I had on the tv and glanced up at the screen and it was sewing kismet! There was a dress that I had to have!
Hilary on The Young & The Restless (she's pregnant in real life) was wearing this striking pink dress with bows on it and I had to know more. My favorite site for locating wardrobe from my favorite tv shows, never lets me down.
The dress is Black Halo Mystic Bow Dress.
To make my dress happen, I simply looked at the lines of the designer dress. The main thing: princess seams with no waist seam. So, I knew I'd be starting off with Vogue 1532. For the neckline, I went with a pattern I'd already used prior -- McCall's 7728.
First thing first, I had to marry the two patterns and picking fabric. My fabric is from my Spring/Summer Fine Fabrics Haul. It's an ivory rayon/viscose crepe.
For the center front, I cut it on the fold eliminating the center front seam.
I left the back like Vogue 1532, well... I lowered it by 2", instead of having a v-back like my inspo dress. I made bias cut straps for the dress as well.
To create the bow detail, I left the seam on one side open at the upper thigh. I spread open the seam so that it would hang apart and sewn in an inset or gusset... whichever you want to call it.
Here is the inside. Now, I haven't seen the inspo dress in person. This is just how I feel things should go. And as you can see from the results, it works.
I sewed the bows the same you would sew a fabric belt and hand stitched them on.
I installed an invisible zipper.
The dress is fully-lined and I used a nude lining. My lining fabric is Donna Karan Warm Beige Italian Stretch Silk Georgette. My sewing tip: Never skip the understitching. It keeps your lining from rolling forward. I've been noticing lately that a lot of people skip that step and *think* that they can just press and go... nope. There's my way -- there's your way -- and there's the RIGHT WAY.
I finished it off with a 2" deep machine-sewn blind hem. So, that's it. I hope I didn't leave off any details. I hope you all find posts like these inspiring to know that you never have to sew a pattern straight from the envelope -- unless you want to. You can take pieces, add new parts and adjust anyway that you like!
