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Monday, October 19, 2009

McCall's 5929 - Black Ruffle Shirt


Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5929
Fabric: Black Dot Shirting (100% cotton)
Notions: Five 1/2" buttons


Description: Fitted shirts A, B have darted front and back, front band, front ruffles and shaped hemline; shirt A has stand-up collar, below elbow length sleeves with sleeve band; shirt B has collar and collar band, full length sleeves with placket opening and cuffs; dresses A, B have sleeves gathered at cap and lower edge.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes... but mine was sort of a hybrid.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They appeared to be. I only used them to see how the ruffles were sewn on.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I'm a sucker for ruffles and this style didn't disappoint.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made view A, but added the collar from view B. According the finished measurements, I didn't have to do a FBA. IMO, this shirt had a lot of "extra" ease. I did add an inch length. I wanted to make sure that it would stay tucked. Instead of hemming the ruffles, I used my serger. I used all French seams. And of course I used black interfacing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not. I like it, but it's not basic enough to be a "TNT". But I do recommend it.



Thursday, October 08, 2009

Vogue 8601 - The Tweed Riding Jacket!

Justify FullProject Details:

Pattern: Vogue 8601
Fabric: Brown wool blend tweed
Contrast: Faux suede
Lining: China silk

Description: Jackets A, B, C, D, E are close-fitting, lined to edge and have princess seams in upper section, darts in lower section, back slit, upper and under collar, one buttonhole in waist seam and long sleeves with elbow darts. A: contrast collar and upper section. A, B, C: two buttonholes. B, D: contrast upper collar. A, B, C, D, E: back length is 30".


Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't follow Vogue's instruction. I consulted my tailoring books.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the "riding" style of this jacket. Another great design from Vogue that falls right in line with the "Country Chic" trend. Also, this pattern could be easily translated into an evening tuxedo. I would use crepe back satin using the matte side for the body and the shiny side for the lapels. Hmmm...

The pieces are drafted great, but the only thing I didn't like about this design is that they didn't use a 2-piece sleeve. But this is just my personal preference on tailored jackets (and coats).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small princess seam FBA. I did the whole tailoring kit and kaboodle. I also added suede elbow patches that I drafted myself. They are sewn on by hand using a blanket stitch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know if I'll actually sew it again, but I would love to make a ladies' tuxedo from this pattern. I think it would look great in an evening style. Not sure if I'll ever get around to making it, but I'll definitely keep it in mind. If you like this style, I highly recommend it.

Conclusion: I think I'll be sending it to the cleaners to get a good professional press, but I'm sure I'll be getting a lot of wear out of this jacket. It's the perfect weight for an Alabama Autumn!

Tuesday, October 06, 2009

Article: Another Fashion Writer *tries* to sew...

I bumped this post back up to share the author, Faye Penn's jacket! She commented and uploaded the pic! Faye, I think you did a fabulous job on the jacket!



click images to enlarge

Carolyn had mentioned this article a couple of weeks ago and I was dying to read it, but my October issue of InStyle had not yet arrived. "Project Disaster" by columnist Faye Penn is about her decision to base an article on sewing her own designer outfit. She decided to use Vogue 2923. Now, the article didn't reference the pattern number, but she did say it was a DKNY. And I recognized the illustration because I've made that jacket -- twice!

The article is hilarious! She bought her fabric from none other than Mood Fabrics (because clearly in NYC's garment district, that's the only choice). She had success with the blouse. She decided to make the jacket in wool and make it reversible. Ambitious much? The part that would have stopped me in my tracks was when she lost the pattern piece for the jacket flounce. She decided it would be a good idea to take the instruction sheet and venture off to Staples and have the thumbnail enlarged. *Blank stare...* The next part about the pants and wearing this ensemble to meet with Jane Chung - DKNY's executive vice president of design is beyond funny!

My take on this article is it was very REALISTIC. In my opinion, Faye's results were more realistic than the Vogue writer who had Jason Wu at her side guiding her hands and sewing her lining. I found Faye to be fearless for even considering diving into a project like that. I know people that have been sewing for years that won't go near a Vogue Pattern. Even though I'm sure the results weren't that great, I wish they would have published the photos of the finished pieces. I hope this is becoming a trend because I would love to see more D.I.Y. projects in fashion magazines.

Sunday, October 04, 2009

Vogue 8601 - Part 4 - Setting in the Sleeve

There are a few ways to set a sleeve. I set my sleeves with a bias strip of Armo-Rite. I didn't buy it, I've been recycling a couple of my husband's old ties. As you see, the bias strip is placed on the the wrong side of the sleeve cap and sewn 1/4" from the edge.
Note: While sewing, make sure that the edge of the sleeve cap stays next to the 5/8" marking on your machine!

I used a catchstitch to make my 1 5/8" hem on the sleeves.

I also added 1/2" shoulder pads.



And here is the finished sleeve!
Nearing the finish line!

Saturday, October 03, 2009

McCall's 5936 - Peplum Jacket

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5936
Fabric: 100% wool
Lining: China silk
Notions: Two 1" buttons

Description: Semi-fitted princess seamed jackets A, B have separate lapels, flared peplums and sleeve variations.


Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? I barely used the instructions. I've done so many jackets that I didn't need them. I only glanced over them for the the lapels since they are sewn on and not part of the jacket fronts. I also looked to make sure I was doing the peplum correctly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the peplum! And this style of jacket is very "of the moment". Who knew peplums and bustles would make a comeback?! I always like to add trendy pieces to my wardrobe.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small princess seam FBA. I also did a little bit of "light" tailoring, but interfacing all of the pieces to add structure, with the exception of the sleeves and peplum. I also added a back stay and stabilized the shoulders.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? It's a good possibility that I may sew the long sleeved version since I'm in love with this particular style. I like it, if you like it too, go for it!







Thursday, October 01, 2009

Vogue 8601 - Part 3 - Shaping the Jacket Front

Interfacing the the jacket front creates a smooth line from the shoulder to the bustline and ensures that the garment front drapes smoothly over the body. The interfacing for the front is cut from Hymo and curves above the bustline and extends to the side seam, 3" below the underarm.
I also reinforced the shoulder by adding bias cut hair canvas. Padstitched the lapels, taped the roll line (by hand) so that the lapels lie close to the body without gaping.

Note: This is a very important step, especially for a full-busted figure.

And here is the under collar attached.


Next the lining...