• "Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised & Updated"
• 
  
• Paperback: 240 pages
• Publisher: Taunton Press; Second Edition edition (May 24, 2011)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1600853358
• ISBN-13: 978-1600853357

Description:

The world of haute couture is a place where only a privileged few can ever hope to reside, right? Wrong. Fashion historian Claire B. Shaeffer opened the door to this exclusive realm in her authoritative guide to the techniques that define couture sewing. And now, the industry bible, Couture Sewing Techniques, has been revised and updated throughout — with new photos and a chapter on specialty fabrics. No one can unravel couture garment construction the way Schaeffer can, from the art of hand sewing to mastering edge finishes, from classic closures to shaping a garment for a perfect fit. Readers learn all the basics — and more importantly: how to apply the techniques — on skirts and sleeves, pockets and jackets, evening gowns, and more. Gorgeous photos, clear illustrations, and concise language combine to make this the most complete couture-sewing course available.

I thought about doing a comprehensive "review" of this book. But I don't think that's necessary. We ALL know that Claire B. Shaeffer's original "Couture Sewing Techniques" book is the go to source for REAL couture sewing! Not neat RTW finishing effects, but actual couture! So this book has just been re-vamp and it is a MUST HAVE for those of us that like to keep our sewing game "stepped up".

This book is divided into two parts:

Part One - "The Basics of Couture Sewing"

• Chapter 1 - Inside the World of Haute Couture
• Chapter 2 - The Art of Hand Sewing
• Chapter 3 - Shaping the Garment
• Chapter 4 - Edge Finishes
• Chapter 5 - Closures

Part Two - "Applying Couture Techniques"

• Chapter 6 - Skirts & Pants
• Chapter 7 - Blouses & Dresses
• Chapter 8 - Sleeves
• Chapter 9 - Pockets
• Chapter 10 - Jackets & Coats
• Chapter 11 - Designing with Fabric
• Chapter 12 - Special Occasions

I also purchased her DVD:

Since it's coat season and a lot of sewers are participating in the jacket sew-a-long, I thought I'd discuss sleeves: one-piece vs. two-piece sleeves to be exact.

This is a "symmetrical" one-piece sleeve which you probably see a lot. This is my LEAST FAVORITE draft for a jacket -- especially one that is "supposed" to be tailored. I find this draft to be disappointing. Let's face it, our arms just don't hang straight and stiff.

Now this one-piece sleeve is slightly different. I've actually made a tailored jacket with a sleeve like this one. You'll notice that there is an elbow dart which "shapes the fitted sleeve to follow the curve of the arm and provides fullness to allow for bending the elbow." (Shaeffer, Claire. Couture Sewing Techniques.)

The two-piece sleeve has seams which appear at both the front and the back of the arm. The under section of the sleeve will actually be a tad bit smaller than the upper part of the sleeve. This will make the seam appear less noticeable on the finished garment. The seams of the two-piece sleeve also fall slightly off center from the front and back of the arm. With the seams falling in the offset places, they are then less apparent when the apparel is worn. This strategic placement of the seams allows for greater range of motion.
In my opinion, the two-piece sleeve is the BEST option (for ME) for jackets and coats because it gives a more tailored appearance.

I'm currently working on a jacket now. The pattern only offered a one-piece. And the look that I am going for is nice tailored sleeves with a vent. I thought for a split second to try and convert the one-piece. That seemed really, really daunting to me. So I ended up jacking a sleeve from another pattern that I liked.


Do YOU have a preference on jacket and coat sleeves?

Description: Semi-fitted, lined, partially interfaced, below waist jacket has princess seams, slightly extended shoulders, shoulder pads, in-seam pockets with pleats, side panels (no side seams), shaped hem, and long two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents. A: underlined and couture construction techniques.

Did it look like the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Well, kind of!

Fabric: Black-Gold-Silver Brocade (54% Nylon, 30% Poly) from Jo-Anns

Lining: Ivory Charmeuse (100% Silk)

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are EXCEPTIONAL! Even if you never actually sew this pattern, if you have a desire to learn "luxurious couture construction details" it's worth purchasing. You can apply them to any jacket or coat!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? In addition to the awesome instructions and couture tips that are included, this pattern has excellent "bones".

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small FBA and added 2 inches to the length. Yes, it was pretty short (for me)! I also used a combination of both the ready-to-wear instructions and the couture.

As I previously mentioned, I blocked fused with a nylon fusible knit interfacing. I added 3 buttons to the sleeve vent instead of 1. I used uncovered shoulder pads and sleeve heads. I added piping to my lining for a little bit of color.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is a fabulous jacket and I wouldn't be opposed to sewing it again. And I highly recommend it. It's like taking a couture class!

Description: Straight-legged pants (semi-fitted through the hip) have contour yoke with front button closure, mock fly zipper, carriers, back welt pocket with button flap.

Other than the fact that I decided to use to back pockets instead of one and I omitted the cuffs, I think these pants look like the ones on the envelope when I was done sewing. The instructions were wonderful... there were no parts that I didn't understand or couldn't refer to one of my sewing books.

There was nothing that I didn't dislike about this pattern. What I liked most was that it was designed for a cuff, which provided extra inches for the inseam length. In my case, as I did not want a cuffed hem, this was perfect for me! I used a 1 1/2" hem.

I can't say I liked or disliked the waist ease. Claire Shaeffer's dartless construction method, as an alternative to darts is to use ease-basting before sewing on the waistband. Also, I would have preferred if the pants had an authentic fly instead of a mock one. What I loved best about these pants is the contour, wide waistband. This particular type of waistband is much more flattering on me than a narrower one. One funny thing is that I worked on these for what seemed like so long, that by the time I was done, I had actually lost a couple of inches and now they are a little big in the waist.

I recommend this pattern to anyone that is wanting to sew "outside of the box"... and to expand their knowledge.

Will I use this one again? Not his view, but I am planning a couple of more from view B with the darts.