So, the pattern testing continues!  This time, it's for the Birkin Flares (which are currently live) sister - the Kendall Skinnies.  This one is is not available yet because it's still in the testing stages.

These jeans are cut from the top up, based on the revised Birkin Flares pattern.  I'll be making another version of the flares soon!  I cut the size 31.  They are high-rise -- mine are 11.25".  I love skinnes with a higher rise.  They hold everything in!  No muffin top and no butt crack, because crack is wack! Sometimes when you put on a tight pair of skinnies, you think the rise is fine and then you sit down! Butt crack!  And I hate when my shirt doesn't stay tucked when I'm sitting or bending.  I didn't find that problem with these.  They're high enough, but without looking like tapered leg "mom jeans".

The pattern is cut with a 30" inseam.  I think this may be standard on all sizes.  You can always add or subtract length.  I plan to wear these with boots.  Even though I don't mind these hitting at the ankles, I will definitely do another pair with a couple of added inches for that "pooling" effect around the ankle for wearing with flats or heels.

For my last pair of jeans, I used that super heavy 12oz Cone Mills stretch denim.  I was really curious about it because I'd heard plenty of others raving over it.  If I try it again, I will definitely downgrade.  To give you an example of what it feels like, it reminds be of back in the day when I use to buy dark denim Levi 501s, and having to break them in.  I don't have time to be breaking in denim that stiff, so I'll stick with denim in a lighter weight.  

I actually found this denim at my Hancock.  It's an 8oz stretch denim with 3% spandex that was a dream to sew and topstitch and it feels wonderful to wear in such a fitted pair of jeans.

My leg opening is 11".  I tapered these down almost an inch.

I love plain back pockets.  They give jeans a classic look.  I can wear these everyday and just switch out tops and shoes, and no one would know the difference.  I can't wait to see what other testers think of these, because I love them.  Jeans are not difficult to sew, but they are most definitely detailed. And I would not be committing my time ESPECIALLY during the Holiday season at that, if I didn't honestly love them.  Because I really need to be finishing up my shopping!

Coats are something that I've grown to love making.  I'm currently plotting and planning the coats I'm going to make for this season.  

For my wardrobe, I like to balance classic styles with trendy styles because there's room for both.

Take for example, my camel hair tailored coat, made from Simplicity 1756.  When I made this coat almost a year ago, I had envisioned a beautifully tailored, classic coat that I would proudly wear for decades.  Something along the lines of Loro Piana or Max Mara coats.  This coat will NEVER end up in the donation pile.

But I also love this unstructured white blanket coat made from (OOP, but still available on the site) Vogue 8696. This is probably the trendiest outerwear of this season and I made mine a couple of years ago.  I don't want any snow and ice like we had this past winter.  But I love that the mercury dips low enough that I can enjoy these coats that hang in my closet!

And just when I thought it was safe to open the windows and doors, and enjoy the fresh air -- here comes Old Man Winter again!  Die you old fart, just die!

As much as I love this coat I made, I really didn't think I would get much wear out of it this season.  I would've gladly packed it away until this coming fall.  But it seems that I'll be putting it to a little more use this March.

And I realized a few days ago that I hadn't worn these pants in a while.  So I thought the camel and coral were a great match.  The bright coral pants keep the sweater and coat from being so -- sedate!  I love my classics, but I like to keep them plenty of fun!

Wearing:  coat: Simplicity 1759; pants: Vogue 1143; sweater: Gino Paoli - Made in Italy (Vintage - 1960s).

Adding a fur collar to your coat is a great way to upcycle, refashion or give your coat a different temporary look.  And it's a great way to bundle up and be fashionable on cold, windy days.

I've added this collar to a couple of my other coats in the past.  See here and here.

If you're interested in DIY tutorials, here is one from Coletterie  and one from Look TV. 

Now, to start prepping for some weekend sewing!

Today, I decided to pair my coat with denim.  It's such a great way to under-dress this coat.  I'd been seeing a lot of bloggers and street style on Pinterest, so I put together my own look.

Inspired by Pinterest!

Images via Pinterest

I'm going to get so much wear out of this coat because it's just that versatile.  And unlike a dress or a top, I can wear this everyday... well at least until it warms here!  Which is a great segue into today's discussion, a new addition to my "Love the Clothes I Make" series.  Most of you have been following me long enough to know that I have a pretty good sense of who I am style-wise.  I've gone through transformations in the almost decade I've been blogging.  Which means, over the years I've learned the benefit of sewing things that I'm going to wear all of the time and return to season after season -- hence this coat!  

 Most of you have been following me long enough to know that I have a pretty good sense of who I am style-wise.  I've gone through transformations in the almost decade I've been blogging.  Which means, over the years I've learned the benefit of sewing things that I'm going to wear all of the time and return to season after season -- hence this coat!

So, my question to is:  What do you sew?  Is it for entertainment purposes only?  Are you a "weekend seamstress" that just enjoys sewing a cute piece or two for the satisfaction of just sewing?  Or are you in it to win it -- like those of us that are serious about wardrobe building and always ready to learn a new technique and add more skills to your sewing repertoire?

Every year, I like to make at least one substantial coat.  Last year, it was my beloved cashmere pea coat.  So this year, I decided it would be a classic camel's hair coat.  I wanted a coat that I would love and cherish for years to come... nothing trendy at all for this project.  Just timeless elegance.

I picked Simplicity 1759 for my pattern.  This pattern is great because you can choose either a single or double-breasted style; choose notched or stand collars or just collarless.  It has patch or welt pockets and back belt variations.  And most importantly, a two-piece sleeve.

I picked this beautiful camel-colored 100% camel's hair fabric.  It's described as "a heavy weight camel wool with a long brushed nap. Very soft, slightly spongy."  This is a napped fabric with a raised pile.  Which means it's best to layout your pattern and cut (on a single layer) with the nap running down the garment.  It'll wear better and pill less.  With ALL pieces going in the same direction.  Also, since this fabric is thick, I used a 100/16 needle and a 3 mm stitch length.   And I pressed the fabric on the wrong side using a fluffy terrycloth towel underneath.  This is my first time sewing with camel's hair, so it was all experimental.

I cut the size 14 and graded out to the 16.  I added 3 inches to the length.  And 1 inch to the sleeves.  I made a 1 inch FBA. I followed the instructions for interfacing.  But I padstitched the collar and taped my roll lines on my lapels.  I also interfaced my hems.

I also added a back stay (didn't photograph it, but you can check out previous ones here) and custom made shoulder pads.  

Made these using polyester fleece and a layer of muslin.

My goal is to always sew a set-in sleeve perfectly on the first try.  Here is my tried and true method:

I used two 2" x 12" bias cut strips of hair canvas.  I marked the center of each strip and pinned to the wrong side at the top of the sleeve cap with the raw edges matching.  Beginning at the center where the pin is, I stitched the bias strip to the sleeve cap using 1/2" seam allowance while fully stretching the bias strip... ending at the notch.  Then I repeated on the other side.  Note:  if your machine doesn't have a seam allowance guide on both sides, you can use a piece of tape.  Then your sleeve is ready to be pinned into the garment and sewn.  The bias strips also act as sleeve heads!

I used a silk charmeuse from my stash.  And I bagged my lining.  

I used Gutermann Top Stitching Heavy Duty Thread for top stitching, buttonholes...

And buttons.

Since some of you are often curious as to where I wear things, on Monday I attended a Spring 2014 Fashion Preview at Belk.  I'm with Arlene Goldstein, VP of Trend Merchandising and Fashion Direction.  I'll be blogging more about the fabulous trends to look forward to later!  Notice how leather was trending!  I got to wear one of my new favorites, my Vogue 1251 lambskin leather and wool crepe dress!

In conclusion, the idea that I created a coat that is similar to coats produced by designers such as Max Mara, makes me very happy.  Coat making is really easy, but there are just a lot of time consuming steps.  You have to (with experience) teach yourself how much tailoring and/or shortcuts you want to apply to your constructions techniques.  And most importantly, that timeless beautiful fabric is really what makes a great coat, so choose wisely!