Review: Simplicity 1759 | A Classic Camel's Hair Coat!
12:00 AM
Every year, I like to make at least one substantial coat. Last year, it was my beloved cashmere pea coat. So this year, I decided it would be a classic camel's hair coat. I wanted a coat that I would love and cherish for years to come... nothing trendy at all for this project. Just timeless elegance.
I picked Simplicity 1759 for my pattern. This pattern is great because you can choose either a single or double-breasted style; choose notched or stand collars or just collarless. It has patch or welt pockets and back belt variations. And most importantly, a two-piece sleeve.
I picked this beautiful camel-colored 100% camel's hair fabric. It's described as "a heavy weight camel wool with a long brushed nap. Very soft, slightly spongy." This is a napped fabric with a raised pile. Which means it's best to layout your pattern and cut (on a single layer) with the nap running down the garment. It'll wear better and pill less. With ALL pieces going in the same direction. Also, since this fabric is thick, I used a 100/16 needle and a 3 mm stitch length. And I pressed the fabric on the wrong side using a fluffy terrycloth towel underneath. This is my first time sewing with camel's hair, so it was all experimental.
I cut the size 14 and graded out to the 16. I added 3 inches to the length. And 1 inch to the sleeves. I made a 1 inch FBA. I followed the instructions for interfacing. But I padstitched the collar and taped my roll lines on my lapels. I also interfaced my hems.
I also added a back stay (didn't photograph it, but you can check out previous ones here) and custom made shoulder pads.
Made these using polyester fleece and a layer of muslin.
My goal is to always sew a set-in sleeve perfectly on the first try. Here is my tried and true method:
I used two 2" x 12" bias cut strips of hair canvas. I marked the center of each strip and pinned to the wrong side at the top of the sleeve cap with the raw edges matching. Beginning at the center where the pin is, I stitched the bias strip to the sleeve cap using 1/2" seam allowance while fully stretching the bias strip... ending at the notch. Then I repeated on the other side. Note: if your machine doesn't have a seam allowance guide on both sides, you can use a piece of tape. Then your sleeve is ready to be pinned into the garment and sewn. The bias strips also act as sleeve heads!
I used a silk charmeuse from my stash. And I bagged my lining.
I used Gutermann Top Stitching Heavy Duty Thread for top stitching, buttonholes...
And buttons.
Since some of you are often curious as to where I wear things, on Monday I attended a Spring 2014 Fashion Preview at Belk. I'm with Arlene Goldstein, VP of Trend Merchandising and Fashion Direction. I'll be blogging more about the fabulous trends to look forward to later! Notice how leather was trending! I got to wear one of my new favorites, my Vogue 1251 lambskin leather and wool crepe dress!
In conclusion, the idea that I created a coat that is similar to coats produced by designers such as Max Mara, makes me very happy. Coat making is really easy, but there are just a lot of time consuming steps. You have to (with experience) teach yourself how much tailoring and/or shortcuts you want to apply to your constructions techniques. And most importantly, that timeless beautiful fabric is really what makes a great coat, so choose wisely!
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64 comments
you look so pretty!!...that dress and coat is everything; heels too!...I want to make a coat but I'm just too lazy to do it...LOL...I've made quicker outerwear but nothing like this....I love it....:)
ReplyDeleteThanks MsKRS!
DeleteJaw. Hit. Floor. Stunning! Such a timeless and elegant piece!
ReplyDeleteThanks Vicki Kate!
DeleteGorgeous coat, Erica! It is such a classic and such a good investment of your sewing time. There is something nice about a classic coat hanging in the closet that will look great for years. Your complete outfit is stunning.
ReplyDeleteThanks Bunny!
DeleteSuch sewing success, Erica! Love this!
ReplyDeleteThanks SheriNJ!
DeleteSimply GORGEOUS! What an inspiration!
ReplyDeleteThanks HerFineHand!
DeleteStunning and showstopping. Best sleevehead/bias example evah! Thanks...
ReplyDeleteThanks Hillary!
DeleteSpectacular! Truly timeless and a wonderful forever addition to your closet. Great tip on putting in the sleeves!
ReplyDeleteThanks Cissie!
DeleteSo beautiful and classic. Your construction is amazing. There is obviously a lot I still need to learn! This year I plan on making my first coat and I hope mine will be even just a tenth as well made and beautiful as this one!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sew Rachel and good luck with your coat!
DeleteLove it! I'm also making a Simplicity 1759 right now, so I'm hoping it can be anywhere near as good...
ReplyDeleteThanks Jenny! I'm sure it'll turn out fabulous!
DeleteI love your whole outfit! Enjoy your beautiful coat!
ReplyDeleteThanks Kate!
DeleteGORGEOUS Erica!!!! You're so wise in your style selections!!! That coat is indeed a timeless and beautiful piece!
ReplyDeleteThanks Victoria!
DeleteBravo!!! This is such a classic, stylish outfit!
ReplyDeletewww.dressupnotdown.blogspot.com
Thanks DressUpNotDown!
DeleteNow THAT is a gorgeous coat!
ReplyDeleteThanks Breenah!
DeleteOMG: i'll bet there was a hush in the room when you walked in...
ReplyDeleteLOL! Thanks June!
DeleteJust WOW!!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Lizzy!
DeleteYou NEVER disappoint! LOVE IT!!! Just pure elegance at its best.
ReplyDeleteThanks Divamazon!
Delete"Just timeless elegance" - I'll say!! That coat is sublime. Absolutely gorgeous
ReplyDeleteThanks BeaJay!
DeleteBeautiful! Your instructions and tips are bookmarked along with LaSewista on how to make a quality coat.
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Thanks Golden Star!
DeleteThis is a runaway coat, very well done Erica! LOVE it!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Tany!
DeleteThat coat is gorgeous and inspiring!! You look great in it.
ReplyDeleteThanks Margo!
DeleteWow! Your coat is absolutely beautiful and looks absolutely beautiful on you. You may have outdone yourself.
ReplyDeleteThanks Elizabethdee!
DeleteHi Erica, I'm a new reader of yours and was excited that you'd made this coat because I'm in the process of making a muslin for it! Yours is gorgeous, really inspiring. I'm going to take a look at your past tailoring posts as well as I've never sewn a coat before.
ReplyDeleteWelcome Crab and Bee! Thanks and good luck with your coat!
DeleteBeautiful coat very professional in construction and details.
ReplyDeleteThanks Kelroc!
DeleteBeautiful! I LOVE black and camel together. So timeless and elegant...my absolute favorite combination. I doubt I will ever have the skill to take on such a project, but I loved the tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteThanks Celeste Lux!
DeleteStunning!! Beautiful coat, outfit and woman. You have great style.
ReplyDeleteThanks Savvysista!
DeleteI am so very envious of both your talent and your style. I look forward to each of your blogs.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jackie!
DeleteAh-mazing!!! It looks so posh!
ReplyDeleteI've been following you on Instagram for a while, I'm just getting around to checking out your blog. Great stuff! Thanks for the inspiration!
~Chinelo~
www.mystyleoasis.blogspot.com
Thanks Chinelo!
DeleteWhat a beautiful classic coat you have made. I have long wished I looked good in that color but I do not. Fabulous and beautifully made.
ReplyDeleteThanks Nancy!
DeleteGorgeous coat made from gorgeous fabric. This will truly be a classic wardrobe piece for years to come and I love seeing the different ways you are styling it.
ReplyDeleteThanks AllisonC!
DeleteThat coat is amazing!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Beth!
DeleteI finally finished my version! Totally love that pattern. You've inspired me to make a camel one for next year...
ReplyDeletehttp://cashmerette.blogspot.com/2014/02/birth-announcement-its-coat.html
Congratulations Jenny!
DeleteAbsolutely gorgeous!! I recently made my first coat and love it. Your camel wool is giving me ideas but I already have a lovely warm heather wool from Mood.
ReplyDeleteThanks Lady ID!
Delete