McCall's 5329 - White Linen Jacket

10:20 PM

Project Details:

Pattern: McCall's 5329, View B
Fabric: linen blend and cotton batiste for the lining
Notions: Three 1 1/8" buttons

Well, the Nanette Lepore knockoff is finally complete! Yeah for me! I ran into a sizing problem... I guess I miscalculated the finished size. I ended up having to start from scratch, so we'll consider the first a "muslin".

  • I went back and cut everything above the waist in a size 16, and the bottom of the jacket in a size 18 (it was originally tight across the hip).
  • I made a 1" FBA and added 1" to the length.
  • Interfaced the entire shell because of the lightweight linen fabric.
  • I cut the lightweight interfacing on the bias to provide a better drape.
  • Since the pattern did not provide separate pattern pieces, made a 1/4" allowance for "turn of cloth" for collar and lapels.
  • The waistband is attached by sewing to the outside of the jacket shell and inserting the ends into the front dart and encasing.
  • I cut my darts opened and pressed flat using a tailor's ham to reduce bulk. The instructions suggested pressing to one side.
I can't really tell you whether or not the instructions were easy because I hardly used them because the construction was pretty basic for a jacket. The only time I referred to them was when I put the waist band on. This is a Sew News pattern and they are known for having great step by step instructions and tips throughout.

I really like that this Summer jacket included a lining; I love the elbow length sleeve with ruffle and the semi-fitted style. Since this jacket has a unique style, I think this will be the only one needed in my collection so I will not be sewing this one again, but it is a definite winner.

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