McCall's 4922 - Tailored Shirt

7:30 PM

Project Details

McCall's 4922, view C
Pincord cotton (100% cotton); white cotton shirting (100% cotton)
Interfacing (100% bleached cotton muslin); Eight 1/2" buttons

Semi-fitted shirts have princess seaming, collar and collar band, topstitch trim, and french cuffs

I wanted to challenge myself on this project and have something a little more special than what the pattern company was offering. Instead of following the McCall's suggestions instructions, I decided to use David Coffin's - "Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing" as my guide.

I first had to take care of the fit by making my usual princess seam FBA. I also decided that I wanted my shirt to have a two-piece yoke. I looked at a couple of the tailored shirts in my closet and measured the width of the yoke. I made those measurements on the back pattern piece and cut it off. I added seam allowances to where I would join them back.
(click for larger pic)

Have you ever noticed the seams in your shirt or your husband's/boyfriend's shirt? No serged seams... they are flat-felled. You'll also noticed these in denim garments. This is just another way of encasing the seam. This technique is really interesting because you can actually use whichever side that piques your interest. The seams were really easy to do, even on the curved princess seams. They did however become challenging on the sleeves. (I should have photographed this... sorry I didn't) I sewed the flat-fell seam on the sleeves by sewing on the inside and rolling the sleeve out of the way as I sewed down. (I hope that makes sense) Also, it was rather difficult to do this on the armscye, but I made it work! If you click on the pic below, you'll see that I pinned up the shirt so that you can compare the right and wrong side seams. There is basically no difference.
(click for larger pic)

What I loved most about this shirt is the french cuffs! The pattern instructions recommended sew-in interfacing, but I used plain ole bleached muslin cotton (recommended by Coffin). Next time, I'll be brave enough to try out one of Coffin's fancy plackets. BTW, he has templates and pattern pieces in his book.

All of the topstitching is made 1/4" from the edge. I used a narrow hem but I didn't use my rolled hem foot. That thing really works my nerves and it's easier for me to just press the hem in place and sew it.

Of course on a tailored shirt, there is a collar and collar stand. I know that I read reviews where a few people have had a hard time attaching these. The go on pretty easy if you just take your time.
And on the inside of the collar stand, I decided to personalize!

I highly recommend this pattern for a great tailored shirt. And this book is a definite must have for your collection!

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