The "CHANEL" Jacket7:10 PM
Vogue 7975, view E
Vogue 8259, the sleeves
Shell: Boucle Suiting (62% Wool, 13% Cotton, 13% acrylic, 12% nylon)
Lining: Silk Charmeuse (100% Silk)
Notions: Ten 7/8" shank buttons; 5 yards of 1/2" flexible trim; 3 coat size hooks & eyes; and chain
This was a very labor-intensive project and I truly understand the price point of these iconic jackets.
- I made a FBA.
- I cut out all of my pieces in a single layer and added a 2 inch seam allowance.
- I quilted the silk lining to the shell fabric by sewing vertical lines about 1" apart with a walking foot. I sewed the quilting stitches on the white part of the fabric because the lining is white and I was using white thread.
- In order to keep the threads from showing, you don't back stitch at the end. You pull the threads in between the lining and the shell fabric and tied them off.
- Using a walking foot, I machine stitched the shell seams.
- The lining seams were hand finished using fell stitches.
The shell fabric and lining are machine quilted together (as a substitution for interfacing) so that the shell fabric will not sag or loose it's shape. Genius right?!
- I set the sleeves by hand.
- Hemmed the shell fabric using a catchstitch.
- Attached the lining to the shell fabric using a fell stitch.
- I folded the pocket piece into the correct shape, making sure the plaid pattern would match up and trimmed it down before attaching.
- I hand stitched the trim to the pockets and attached the pockets.
- I hand sewed the chain weight right below the lining.
The House of CHANEL uses a brass chain at the hemline on the inside of the jackets to make them hang smoothly. The before and after of the chain is like night and day.
- I sewed on the hooks and eyes.
- I hand-stitched the trim to the jacket edges and the sleeve vents.
- And to pull it all together, I added my buttons.