Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe: sewing books

book review

Pretty Birds!

1:30 PM

book review

Book Review: "Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised & Updated"

11:30 AM

"Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised & Updated"
Paperback: 240 pages
Publisher: Taunton Press; Second Edition edition (May 24, 2011)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1600853358
ISBN-13: 978-1600853357

Description:

The world of haute couture is a place where only a privileged few can ever hope to reside, right? Wrong. Fashion historian Claire B. Shaeffer opened the door to this exclusive realm in her authoritative guide to the techniques that define couture sewing. And now, the industry bible, Couture Sewing Techniques, has been revised and updated throughout — with new photos and a chapter on specialty fabrics. No one can unravel couture garment construction the way Schaeffer can, from the art of hand sewing to mastering edge finishes, from classic closures to shaping a garment for a perfect fit. Readers learn all the basics — and more importantly: how to apply the techniques — on skirts and sleeves, pockets and jackets, evening gowns, and more. Gorgeous photos, clear illustrations, and concise language combine to make this the most complete couture-sewing course available.

I thought about doing a comprehensive "review" of this book. But I don't think that's necessary. We ALL know that Claire B. Shaeffer's original "Couture Sewing Techniques" book is the go to source for REAL couture sewing! Not neat RTW finishing effects, but actual couture! So this book has just been re-vamp and it is a MUST HAVE for those of us that like to keep our sewing game "stepped up".

This book is divided into two parts:

Part One - "The Basics of Couture Sewing"

Chapter 1 - Inside the World of Haute Couture
Chapter 2 - The Art of Hand Sewing
Chapter 3 - Shaping the Garment
Chapter 4 - Edge Finishes
Chapter 5 - Closures

Part Two - "Applying Couture Techniques"

Chapter 6 - Skirts & Pants
Chapter 7 - Blouses & Dresses
Chapter 8 - Sleeves
Chapter 9 - Pockets
Chapter 10 - Jackets & Coats
Chapter 11 - Designing with Fabric
Chapter 12 - Special Occasions

I also purchased her DVD:

"Couture Techniques Workshop Basics with Claire Shaeffer"

book review

Book Review: "The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques"

4:00 PM

They had me at "COUTURE"!

"Fashion designer and expert sewist Lynda Maynard tackles each professional technique with clear instructions in simple step-by-step stages. Once these skills are understood, sewists will embrace their dressmaking projects with more confidence and the ability to create chic, refined looks. The Dressmaker’s Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques unlocks the door to stunning results with better shaping, simpler construction methods, and professional finishing touches. Lynda also explains several seemingly difficult “secrets,” from making bindings and finishing for hems, armholes, and necklines to underpinnings and structuring techniques. Plus, she teaches how to master finishing touches from textured stitches to couching and appliqué. A complete guide to the fabrics suited to each technique and inspirational fashion photography are also included."

It's no secret that I'm an absolute couture and couture sewing techniques lover! So when I discovered this new book, I had to have it! This is an absolutely beautiful, hardback, spiral bound book. The book has beautiful illustrations and also gorgeous photos from up to date runway shows from the likes of Armani Prive', Christian Dior and Kevan Hall just to name a few.

There were several techniques that I have not tried that I would be willing to... such as the author's "couture waistband" and "spaced tucks".

In the very back of the book is the section called "Essential Couture Techniques". Color me perplexed, but I thought that's what the ENTIRE book is *supposed* to be about!

Even though there are a few things that I found interesting and may give a try, I found this book to be somewhat of a let down. I feel that the term "couture" may have been liberally used. At the most, this book is "couture-ish" and will produce nice ready-to-wear results. I was looking for more hand sewing techniques and the author even lists a serger as part of "The Couturier's Kit". I always thought that was a no-no?!

I would call this book "Couture-ish Sewing Techniques - 101" and definitely recommend this book for less advanced sewers that are looking to step up their sewing game. And for the more "seasoned seamstress", this is a good supplement for the other couture sewing books in your library!

Claire Shaeffer

One-piece sleeves vs. two-piece sleeves

1:45 PM

book review

Book Review: "The Party Dress Book: How to Sew the Best Dress in the Room"

12:30 PM

Attention fashionistas, glamourattis, and twirling enthusiasts everywhere: The Party Dress Book is the book you’ve been waiting for. Get an inside look at the inspiration, work, and techniques of creative dressmaking of celebrated New York designer Mary Adams. A unique combination of striking and wearable, Mary’s gorgeous dresses are a glam departure from the norm. In this book, you’ll learn the secrets to designing her trademark wearable decadence and how to sew your own delicious creations.

Start with Mary’s influences, process as a creative dressmaker, and essential techniques, and then move into step-by-step instruction on how to produce a scene-stealer of your own. With Mary’s straightforward, self-taught techniques, classic and customizable pattern, and inspired whimsy, making jaw-dropping dresses is simple and fun. The real work will be feigning modesty when you say, “Oh, this dress? I made it myself.”

In the first part of the book, Mary Adams talks about her herself, and discusses how she has no "formal" fashion education. She says that she learned to sew at the early age of 12, from her mother, grandmother and her public school education. Sounds a lot like me!

The author goes on to discuss designing as a career, how she collects fabric as a hobby (most of us can relate to this!) and where she pulls her inspiration from.

She's inspired by the glamour and femininity of the fifties... awww, that "Golden Age of Couture"! Also dresses with a "western swing". Think cute little square dance frocks! And dresses that Marie Antoinette herself would love!

Mary has a degree in art, so it's easy to see how she can pull inspiration from elements around her. Take for example the photos on the left, one of bareness of tree branches and the other is a forest covered in a light blanket of snow. And if you look at the dress on the right side, you can see that!

Now on to the fun part...

The author lists her "essential techniques": the French Seam, piecing, quilting, appliqué, pintucks, ruffles and bias strips.

Now that you've gathered all of your inspiration and covered the essential techniques, it's time to sew your dress.

In the back of the book, there is a pattern. She provides three options: 1. Soaked silk taffeta dress; 2. a cotton dress and 3. a layered silk organza dress. If you don't have a formal occasion to wear a fancy silk dress, the cotton option would make a great sundress.

Now granted, I haven't put this method to use, I do like that her pattern ONLY requires THREE measurements: bust, waist and skirt length. No dreaded FBAs, just nipping and tucking as you sew. For the supply list, she recommends sew-in interfacing, but NO boning. That gave me pause. I would think that a dress with a corset-style bodice would require it.

I recommend this book to those with at least advanced beginner sewing skills. Even though the author gives very detailed instructions on the construction process, you still need to have enough experience to make certain decisions.